How do I stop fret buzz?

[eukatheude]

Well let's not get crazy. I'm not able to see how intonation adjustments could affect the truss rod adjustment. You could maybe argue that action adjustments might affect intonation but it's not rocket science.

Well, action does affect the angle at which strings pull on the neck. So i believe it might also affect how the neck reacts to TR adjustment.

 

[Hopkins]

The way I do my set up's is as follows:

Step 1 Truss Rod adjustment. This is the foundation of the bass set up and must be done first. This MUST be done in playing position (don't lay the bass on the workbench because the weight of the bass wil throw off the settings). I use a capo on the first fret (on top of the fret), and then fret the neck where the neck meets the body. I use the feeler gauge blade that is .015" and put the feeler gauge under the "E" string on top of the 7th fret. If the string lifts from sliding the feeler gauge under it, the truss rod is to tight and will need to be loosened slightly. Use the appropriate allen key at the top of the neck and turn the nut counter clockwise until the feeler gauge slides under without lifting the string.

Step 2 Bridge Height adjustment. This requiers a small ruler calibrated with either 32" or 64" markings. Again this must be done in playing position. Take and place the ruler on top of the fret nearest to where the neck joins the body. Now measure the "E" string from the top of the fret to the bottom of the "E" string. You want the measurement to be 4/32". If it's to high or too low adjust your bridge saddle screws appropriately up or down. Be sure to make the same amount of turns on both of the saddles adjustment screws. If you don't you'll screw up the string spacing. Now do the "A" string to about 3 and a half 32nd of an inch. Now the "D" string slightly lower than the A string. The "G" string should be at 3/32".

Step 3 Nut Height Adjustment. Now this is done with the bass on the bench, not in playing postion. You'll need a set of nut files, and a feeler gauge. I use the feeler gauge blade that is .022". Slide the blade on top of the first fret, in between the fret and the "E" string. Now measure the distance between the top of the fret and the bottom of the "E" string. If there is a gap between the feeler gauge and the bottom of the "E" string then the nut must be cut with the appropriate nut file for the size of the string slot in the nut. The nut file size is determined by the gauge of the strings you use. Check each string individually with the .022" blade and adjust each nut slot appropriately. DON'T OVER CUT THE NUT unless you want string buzz.

Step 4 String Length Adjustment (Intonation). String length adjustment is the comparison of the open note on the string, and the fretted octave on the 12th fret. Tune all your strings as you would normally do. Then check the intonation of each string on the 12th fret. If the pitch is sharp the string must be lengthened. If the pitch is to flat then the string must be shortened. On the bottom of the bridge, use a phillips screw driver to adjust the saddle length adjustment screw to make the appropriate adjustments for each string. Then retune your bass and check the intonation again at the 12th fret. Keep doing this until the string is in tune on the open and octave notes.

I edited your post so it is possible to read. You are welcome

You definitely have the order correct, but I would like to point out a few details.

Step 1).015 is a little bit on the high side as far as relief goes. I would aim for closer to .010 as far as a general set up is concerned. Every player is different so there are no hard fast rules here.

Step 2) I think the bridge adjustment should be a tactile adjustment, and doesn't need to be measured so precisely. Adjust it to a happy medium where it is easy to fret, and there is no buzz along the string path. Adjusting to precise measurements assumes that all necks and fret work are the same.

Step 3) Nut adjustment is pretty much a one time adjustment on a new instrument and is taken care of during the initial set up, and doesn't need any more adjustment after. I would recommend having a professional do this, because proper nut files are expensive, and it is very easy for a novice to cut the slot to deep. The one time set up cost is cheaper than buying a set of nut slotting files.

Step 4) No arguments here

 

[Hopkins]

Well, action does affect the angle at which strings pull on the neck. So i believe it might also affect how the neck reacts to TR adjustment.

In a very minor way, but not enough to throw off the truss rod adjustment after the action is adjusted. Unless it is a very extreme case, then all adjustments may need to be repeated twice. Intonation is absolutely affected by relief and action, but relief and action are in no way affected by intonation.

 

[eukatheude]

In a very minor way, but not enough to throw off the truss rod adjustment after the action is adjusted. Unless it is a very extreme case, then all adjustments may need to be repeated twice. Intonation is absolutely affected by relief and action, but relief and action are in no way affected by intonation.

I agree. My point was directed at troubled basses; a neck that won't stray straight might benefit from having the action lowered significantly for a couple of days. I've yet to try this out though.

 

[C130AVN]

For someone starting out, measurements are the only way to roll, after you've been doing it for years, look and feel suffice in most cases.

 

[Hopkins]

For someone starting out, measurements are the only way to roll, after you've been doing it for years, look and feel suffice in most cases.

Not for action adjustments, a tactile adjustment is always the best way to do it as far as I am concerned. Like I said earlier, a hard, fast measurement assumes that all necks have the same fretwork, which is never the case. On a neck with great fret work I can get a neck lower than the measurements you posted with no buzz, the opposite is true when the fret work isn't the greatest. Some players dig in, some play very softly, adjusting action to a certain measurement does not take any of this into account. Like I said, you are looking for a happy medium between easy to fret, and no buzz at any point along the fret board.