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How do you achieve Fbass Ceruse Finish?

#42
tjclem said:
I want to resurect theis thread. Can you guys please re-post some of the missing photos. Anybody have anything new to add? I have some ash I would like to experiment with.....t
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The KL pics were liked from BassNW's site; since the bass sold at least two years ago, I assume they're gone.

You can go directly to the Sandberg site for their stuff. Very striking.
 
#44
I did it a couple of years ago with an ash bodied bass... filled the grain with a really dark pore filler, then sanded back and dyed the whole body with transtint.. it worked fairly well to really highlight the grain lines. Unfortunately (as seems to be the case lately) I didn't take pictures. It was a prototype that I didn't end up liking the body style, so in the trash it went. lol
 
#45
A nice new one:
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#51
I was thinking about trying something and wanted some opinions on the idea.

On Swamp Ash I was going to sand to 220 then Spray a few coates of clear poly let it dry full then apply this.

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The Black version.

Could I then just sand back by hand until the only black showing would be what is in the grain and because I sprayed the clear first there would be sharp definition between the natural wood and the black grain? Then just spray clear over it all? Or am I not thinking of something? I am trying to make this as easy as possible to keep the man hours down. Thanks in advance for any assistance...tom
 
#52
You can spray 2 coats of clear, fill the grain as needed until it is smooth with no pitting, then shoot the clear coats. I assume you are going with a natural finish with black grain enhancement. The first 2 coats of clear is a sealer, not allowing the filler solvents/color from staining the field of the wood. I also do this procedure in between filler coats.
 
#53
Going all the way to the top for the black ceruse finish. One could lay down the base coat color, then shoot 2 coats of clear. Then apply maybe 2 coats of a white pigmented shellac. Maybe enough to fill the grain, sanding smooth(no pits) just enough to remove the white from the field. Repeat as necessary. Then use 2-3 coats of S&S sanded smooth, then the clear coats. Shellac can be use as sealer and tinted, as is compatible with most finishes. I use it with nitro with good success. BINS is a white pigmented shellac in a spray bomb. I haven't tried this, but I think it would work with some patience.
 
#55
I just applied the black grain filler and having never used grain filler it is a real learning experience. I applied it too thick I think. Also don't bother getting the squeege they sell with the grain filler the rubber is too stiff to use. It was a waste of $ I am letting it dry now and will try and sand it. I can imagine sanding the edges will be real tricky sanding enough but not too much. Yes am doing this on scrap. :)
 
#56
tjclem said:
I just applied the black grain filler and having never used grain filler it is a real learning experience. I applied it too thick I think. Also don't bother getting the squeege they sell with the grain filler the rubber is too stiff to use. It was a waste of $ I am letting it dry now and will try and sand it. I can imagine sanding the edges will be real tricky sanding enough but not too much. Yes am doing this on scrap. :)
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Having used purpose made grain fillers before I can say that they are a pain in the butt to use when compared to thickened epoxy, which you can tint or mix with wood dust to get the color you want. I use old credit cards as a squeege which is much stiffer than the rubber or plastic squeeges they sell and they work very well for me. I guess it's a matter of getting a technique to it.
 
#57
Very good I have never used the thickened epoxy so I don't know. How do you handle that on edges does it get that thick that it stays in place? I am used to and still have some System 3 but where would I get white pigment and thickener for it ?
 
#60
tjclem said:
Very good I have neverused the thickened epoxy so I don't know. How do you handle that on edges does it get that thick that it stays in place? I am used to and still have some System 3 but where would I get white pigment and thickener for it ?
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I bend the card and do a sweeping motion towards the front (or back). It's tricky, but it's MY technique that works for ME.

System 3 sells pigments that are "approved" for their epoxies, but I've used powder concentrated pigments for light colors and Transtint for the dark colors with good success. You can get all these and their silica thickener from woodcraft.
 

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