How do you avoid sand throughs?

[Lenny JG]

Sand the clear coat and at most only scuff the paint? Ik how to paint cars not guitars lol but I'd say prob leave the color alone altogether.

 

[Changed5Times]

I’ve got a few guitar finish jobs under my belt. Few thousand that is. So. You don’t need to sand the color coat at all. Couple of other people in this thread have said it and they are correct.

Now, for the place where you’re going to run into a meatgrinder; you’re using that damn Rustoleum stuff. What do you plan to use for clear coat? That rustoleum is going to come up in chunks if you use lacquer. So you can’t use lacquer.

(you can put enamel on lacquer - shouldn’t but you can - but not the other way around)

I don't have access to rattle can lacquer or rattle can 2k over here, and I don't have spray equipment, so these are my options for the clear coat:

1. Rust-Oleum 2x Gloss Clear. In my experience only: It's readily available, it is truly crystal clear, it polishes out nicely. However, it obviously doesn't offer the same hardness as a factory finish or a 2k finish, but gets "just about reasonably hard" (my own rating system!) after several months.

2. Wipe on poly. I've found that it isn't truly crystal clear. Even the water based. But probably doesn't matter except for the lightest base colors. I've only tried it on scrap, and while I got a very nice even application, like a smooth layer of "film" (and no orange peel to sand), I'm not convinced that it's more durable than the Rust-Oleum 2x. So I see it as just an alternative way (more enjoyable/friendly in some ways) to reach similar results as #1. Not ruling it out.

3. Shellac. I know, not very traditional but I've successfully "french polished" shellac (mixed from clear powder or blonde flakes) over spray can enamel (over dark colors). I wouldn't rule out doing it again. Comes of course with all of the advantages and disadvantages of a shellac finish.

4. CA wipe on finish: Haven't tried this yet

5. Epoxy wipe on finish: Haven't tried this yet (only used epoxy as a grain filler so far)

I may have found a source here for automotive grade rattle can paint, but going to need to look into it, perhaps they have a high quality 1k clear that is better than all of my other options. I'm pretty sure they don't have 2k in rattle can form here, that's fine with me as I really don't want to work with it!

 

[arbiterusa]

I'm pretty sure they don't have 2k in rattle can form here, that's fine with me as I really don't want to work with it!

I won’t work with 2k or CA. They’re both just too dangerous as far as I’m concerned. I’ve been enjoying spray poly recently. It’s less nasty than nitro, and you can finish just as thin as nitro if you just shoot less. Wouldn’t use it on an acoustic, but it’s fine for electric instruments.

Now, what are you talking about shellac not being traditional? It’s the most traditional finish that exists! The durability is crap, and it’s always got at least a hint of amber to it, but if you can get a good shellac finish I’d run with that. And it’s real safe, just make sure you’re nowhere near anything that can spark or flame. Alcohol burns invisibly.