How do you figure out the worth of a parts bass? Does upgrading it give it more worth, how do you determine that? Also im not talking vintage.
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How do you tell the worth of a parts bass
- Thread starter light blue bass
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Are you a player or a collector?
If the bass is just just a tool to help make your music then aftermarket parts can sometimes increase value, if you are a collector any deviation from stock devalues the bass.
If the bass is just just a tool to help make your music then aftermarket parts can sometimes increase value, if you are a collector any deviation from stock devalues the bass.
IMO, It's a matter of pricing out each individual component + determining how good the Assembly turned out.
IE;
American Original 50s Body = $600-$750
Lollar Pickup = $150
Pots, Jack & Wiring = $50-$150
Pickguard = $25-$200
Neck = $75-$1000+
Tuners = $50-$250+
Strings = $25-$100
Labor = $$???
Case $100-$200
My 2 most recent FSO(Fender Shaped Object) parts builds cost me over $1500 each to build.
This is my 109th FSO build:
For Sale/Trade - American Original '50s P-Bass Build W/Roasted Maple Neck
Take the value of a bass that's already assembled from the manufacturer & divide by 4.
So let's say a $600 Mexican Fender is similar, you can expect around $150 for the parts bass.
So let's say a $600 Mexican Fender is similar, you can expect around $150 for the parts bass.
Yes but as you can see, I have it priced at below my cost to build.
IMO, Parts builds can be a great way to get a fantastic deal but you have to know what you're getting.
Sometimes, for example, it's a Mexican Body with a Nice USA neck in the $900 range. That is a great deal as long as the neck is in good serviceable condition.
On the flip side, I've seen people asking $1800 for a parts bass that I could put together for $750.
You can always ask here on Talkbass about a specific bass and get some feedback on a fair price for it.
I honestly believe it's a buyers market for Parts basses. But re-sale will never be quite as good as a factory built (Non-parts) bass.
I will put my bass that I linked up against any Nash, Bluesman of factory USA Fender all day long. That's why I prefer Local deals. People can see and play it and I will gladly take it back if they are'nt happy.
If you wanted to build a nice Fender-Killer parts bass, here's what I would do: Get MJT to supply you with a body. They will give you New condition or Relic'd condition. Then get a nice Warmoth or All-Parts neck. Then get an EMG solder-less Pickup and choice of Scratch Plate. A few other little odds and ends and you have a great bass…. I guarantee you can do it for under $1,000.
My 110th Build has a BYO custom shop neck with Brazilian Rosewood Fretboard. It cost me a lot more but it's special. The bass came out ay 7.5 Lb too. I consider it to be my finest build ever with #109 a close second.
Anything is worth however much the buyer and seller can agree on.
It has nothing to do with the sum of the parts.
If you are a player:
It has to do with how well the tool can perform the job the player wants compared to other tools and what the player is willing to pay for said performance.
If you are a collector:
It has to do with the desirability of the instrument in the minds of other collectors and how much one is willing to pay for that desirability.
It has nothing to do with the sum of the parts.
If you are a player:
It has to do with how well the tool can perform the job the player wants compared to other tools and what the player is willing to pay for said performance.
If you are a collector:
It has to do with the desirability of the instrument in the minds of other collectors and how much one is willing to pay for that desirability.
My parts basses are purpose built
with care to fit and finish and attention to detail. I personaly wouldn't consider taking much less than the standard rate that any particular bass is pulling.
My time, effort and skill is a value as are the parts used in the assy.
If the parts are a lateral move I wouldn't expect more if I paid substantially more for a particular body or neck I would price them accordingly and wait for the right player to pair it up with, YMMV.
with care to fit and finish and attention to detail. I personaly wouldn't consider taking much less than the standard rate that any particular bass is pulling.
My time, effort and skill is a value as are the parts used in the assy.
If the parts are a lateral move I wouldn't expect more if I paid substantially more for a particular body or neck I would price them accordingly and wait for the right player to pair it up with, YMMV.
So I have a Fender P bass.
The body is a 2005 squire p bass body thats refinished natural
The pick guard is stock.
The pickups are Fender late 90s, same with knobs and other electronics.
The bridge is a Fender Mike Dirnt Roadworn high mass
70s reissue Fender tuners
Fender Standard Pau Ferro Jazz neck
Fender F plate
It plays really well. Everything is in good working order.
The body is a 2005 squire p bass body thats refinished natural
The pick guard is stock.
The pickups are Fender late 90s, same with knobs and other electronics.
The bridge is a Fender Mike Dirnt Roadworn high mass
70s reissue Fender tuners
Fender Standard Pau Ferro Jazz neck
Fender F plate
It plays really well. Everything is in good working order.
IME 2/3 to 3/4 of the brand new value of all the parts. Maybe less if the build got botched or worn out. More if the craftsmanship - or salesmanship - are exceptional.
It's hard to say without seeing, playing. I would expect the low end of what a Standard Squier of the same ilk is fetching, check reverb for 2005 Standards pricing.
The jazz neck could make a difference to someone looking for that particular neck profile on a P bass body, on the other hand if someone is looking for a P bass with a P neck it'll be a no go. GL
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This sounds like a very fine bass. It's my opinion that it's worth more to you as a player than you could sell it for.
However, There are people who will see it for what it is as a good payers bass that can probably pull off The P-Bass vibe as well as most USA P-basses. That's the beauty of parts basses.
Collectors are funny folks.
For them, originality trumps everything. This applies to everything.
Basses, guitars, and cars.
An original 57 Chevy was not a great driving experience compared to modern cars.
People regularly upgrade the engine, brakes and suspension to make them a safe, comfortable driver. Technically a better car.
But the "value" of a modified 57 is a fraction of an all original example.
The owners of such personalized cars almost never recoup the money spent upgrading. If Pawn stars has taught us anything, its that you can lose thousands of dollars on an antique firearm just cleaning it!
When you modify a bass, your making it more valuable to you.
But not necessarily to someone else.
For them, originality trumps everything. This applies to everything.
Basses, guitars, and cars.
An original 57 Chevy was not a great driving experience compared to modern cars.
People regularly upgrade the engine, brakes and suspension to make them a safe, comfortable driver. Technically a better car.
But the "value" of a modified 57 is a fraction of an all original example.
The owners of such personalized cars almost never recoup the money spent upgrading. If Pawn stars has taught us anything, its that you can lose thousands of dollars on an antique firearm just cleaning it!
When you modify a bass, your making it more valuable to you.
But not necessarily to someone else.
Pretty easy formula if you begin with a complete bass or guitar and upgrade pickups, hardware, or other. Take the value (not the as new retail cost but the value) of the bass as stock, subtract the value of the upgrades. Partscaster value.
In other words, a Fender Am Pro II P Bass new for $1,750. Add Lollar pickups (a solid upgrade in my opinion) $150. Add strap locks of your choosing, $30. Add a D drop, $100. Now the baseline value of that bass is $1,750 - $280. Then adjust for wear and age. Simple.
It’s harder if you build from parts entirely. Add the total cost of body, neck, hardware, electronics, strings. Divide by 2 and you’re on the very highest end of the price range for resale.
In other words, a Fender Am Pro II P Bass new for $1,750. Add Lollar pickups (a solid upgrade in my opinion) $150. Add strap locks of your choosing, $30. Add a D drop, $100. Now the baseline value of that bass is $1,750 - $280. Then adjust for wear and age. Simple.
It’s harder if you build from parts entirely. Add the total cost of body, neck, hardware, electronics, strings. Divide by 2 and you’re on the very highest end of the price range for resale.
So it seems that worth, price wise, goes down. But personally the worth goes up.
Right on the $$$. OP, I put most all of my basses together, I prefer j necks on p bodies so for me a recent Fender neck upgrade on a clean body would be a bonus!
I'll also add that, to me, building parts basses is a hobby. I started in the 1980s. I can work a Sunday at my job for Double-time any time I want. So if I were to spend those 8 hours assembling a bass for little to no profit it would not make financial sense Vs. just going to my job.
It's more important to me get a bass into a guys/gals hands that will see how sweet the bass is.
I think that building parts basses is the only way to really appreciate their value. People can look at your bass and only see a Squire P-bass. But you know it has USA electronics that if soldered in correctly will last 50 years. If you take care and properly adjust relief, the neck is also good for many many years.
If you really want to maximize Resale, It's almost always better to part it back out.
I have usually made a little $$ on my builds but about 50% of them were parted back out. That's a shame too because they were mostly better than the sum of their parts. That's because I am very selective with which neck goes on which body. They don't just all go together perfectly like magic. I tried #109s neck with #110s body and it was a no go for me.
But this neck and body are a match made in heaven:
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It's more important to me get a bass into a guys/gals hands that will see how sweet the bass is.
I think that building parts basses is the only way to really appreciate their value. People can look at your bass and only see a Squire P-bass. But you know it has USA electronics that if soldered in correctly will last 50 years. If you take care and properly adjust relief, the neck is also good for many many years.
If you really want to maximize Resale, It's almost always better to part it back out.
I have usually made a little $$ on my builds but about 50% of them were parted back out. That's a shame too because they were mostly better than the sum of their parts. That's because I am very selective with which neck goes on which body. They don't just all go together perfectly like magic. I tried #109s neck with #110s body and it was a no go for me.
But this neck and body are a match made in heaven:
Invalid Link Removed
Ric5
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- Jan 29, 2008
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