An easier way to check for bridge placement involves measuring the distance of the bridge feet from the f-holes. Of course there are asymmetrically placed f-holes... though that is somewhat unusual, and rather close to impossible on a Czech-Ease bass. Another contingent would be a crookedly glued in neck, which is all too common on older, much-repaired basses, but again, unlikely on that new-ish bass. So if the bridge is properly located, it should be simple enough to measure from the inner f-hole edges to the outer edges of the bridge feet and see if the distances are equal. Should be within 1mm or so of identical measures if all else is correct. If a greater distance, drop string tension somewhat and shift it, then adjust both adjusters to equal heights, then check the action under each string. On average it might be around 6mm to 9mm going from G to E, with about 1mm increase on each string. And you'll also want to check then that the distance from the centres of the E and G strings to the outer edges of the fingerboard are also matched. If off by 1mm or more, this also needs correcting. Of course checking this symmetry is pointless unless the bridge feet are first centred.
If the bridge proves not to be centred in both ways, then it could be that the bridge has been cut crookedly, such that one leg is shorter than the other. This is actually a 'trick' used to locate feet on centre when there is a crooked neck and the bassist for whatever reasons is not having the neck joint re-fitted. A crooked neck and a compensated bridge fitting result in less than optimal tension on the bridge, hence reduced efficiency of sound, but it's a compromise sometimes needed when there isn't time or money to re-do the neck joint. Anyway, this sort of checking is something you should be able to do before going to a luthier, provided you keep the soundpost in place while moving the bridge (if needed). A weight placed over the soundpost can help with this, before taking off string tension to move the bridge.
If after properly locating the bridge and adjuster heights (which really shouldn't ever be more than a turn or away from equal owing to the stresses this puts into the maple, increasing risk of splitting the legs, along with the aforementioned mis-fitting of the feet to the belly) it is found that the heights are wrong, then the most likely next step is reshaping the upper curve of the bridge and re-grooving it for the strings, then compensating for the carving by raising the adjusters. How much reshaping of the bridge top is safe/advisable to perform will vary according to your existing bridge, but from what I've seen of the Czech-Eaze basses there should be enough wood there. Just don't run out of adjuster range. Too high, (ie; more than 3/8" or so of adjuster thread showing) and there is greater risk of thread failure in the maple and other problems.
