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How I make a cf neck
- Thread starter MPU
- Start date
Only $10/sq foot, but you have to buy 120 sq. feet minimum.
If you are having a wood core, hoop strength isn't really much of an issue, so you could use unidirectional set along the length of the neck. Of course, then you lose the cosmetic weave which lets everyone know you are using CFRP.
Link Removed The sleeves about half way down would make wrapping a neck super easy.
EBay is full of cf cloth and epoxy resin. For example Carbon Fiber PRO Wrapping Kit Laminating, Cloth, Epoxy | eBay
I bought mine from Carbonmods in UK as it's cheaper to ship from there and no customs are needed.
Marko
I bought mine from Carbonmods in UK as it's cheaper to ship from there and no customs are needed.
Marko
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davec
Supporting Member
- May 4, 2006
- 1,891
- 878
- Disclosures
- Owner; Cody Electric Basses ( Now Closed) sales @ Sweetwater
OT, but tell me about fretting that phenolic board!
not a builder, just a fixer, but i've re-fretted that phenolic "mother-of-bowling-ball" a few times now; on a martin DX-1 it was no trouble at all, but on a CA acoustic (all carbon fiber, with no truss rod) it was an absolute bear!
whatever they used for a board, it had absolutely no give or compression, like i was trying to re-fret slate! it chipped hideously with any stress while removing the old frets (even with heat), and the new frets would not go in at all, even though the tang size was right; they would stop at the barbs and go no further.
i had to finally widen the slots to the size of the tang barbs and "float" the frets down into place in a slot filled with superglue. it worked out fine, but man, what a PIA!
not a builder, just a fixer, but i've re-fretted that phenolic "mother-of-bowling-ball" a few times now; on a martin DX-1 it was no trouble at all, but on a CA acoustic (all carbon fiber, with no truss rod) it was an absolute bear!
whatever they used for a board, it had absolutely no give or compression, like i was trying to re-fret slate! it chipped hideously with any stress while removing the old frets (even with heat), and the new frets would not go in at all, even though the tang size was right; they would stop at the barbs and go no further.
i had to finally widen the slots to the size of the tang barbs and "float" the frets down into place in a slot filled with superglue. it worked out fine, but man, what a PIA!
I'm totally new to this.
Was the curing by heat required or is that something you decided to do to speed things up?
Was the curing by heat required or is that something you decided to do to speed things up?
Hey Marko
I know it's a long shot but do you still have some of that paperstone left? Or do you know any distributor in Finland who is willing to cut and sell small piece like fretboard. Down south in Estonia everyone wants to sell the whole sheet which is crazy expensive? Maybe Fenix and Arpa boards? They are all same HPL laminates!
Thanks!
I know it's a long shot but do you still have some of that paperstone left? Or do you know any distributor in Finland who is willing to cut and sell small piece like fretboard. Down south in Estonia everyone wants to sell the whole sheet which is crazy expensive? Maybe Fenix and Arpa boards? They are all same HPL laminates!
Thanks!
I haven't found any Finnish distributors for phenolic fretboard material. I've bought the fretboards from UK or USA. I just used the last fretboard I had.
I've built two trapezoidal. Either thumb on the back or wrap your hand around. It all feels very natural. 
