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How Many Times Do You Wind Strings Around Tuning Post?
- Thread starter Slackerprince
- Start date
I always bend a 90 cut about .5" past that, stick the end into the post then tighten. I you have to, use the old string as a gage so you don't cut too short.
Usually three for me as well, but I don't measure precisely before wrapping so sometimes it's a half wind off one way or the other.
I pull the string through, cut it appx. 2" past the post, stick the end into the post, and bend it and tune up. Works for me!
On both of my basses, the cut end of the string goes into the center of the post, so that is not really applicable. On my other stringed instruments (guitar and mandolin), I cut the excess string so that there is a little less than a 1/2 inch extending beyond the post.
My P(avatar), which has barely 1 full wrap per tuner, tunes more quickly than any of my basses- it just seems to get right on pitch very easily. It also stays in tune as well as the rest of my basses.
Hate to derail this thread, but I've heard that on P's or J's if you buy standard long gauge strings you really dont have to cut the strings. Now I've always cut my strings two tuners past the intended tuning machine... but I am planning on buying some nice La Bella's for my P and I have been hearing ppl say to not cut them cuz they're nice and if u ever want to sell them to someone else it's best to keep them intact. So my question is: If I buy some La Bella's in standard 34" scale for my P bass can I get away with not cutting the ends? Thanks.
-Jon
-Jon
I always try to get as many wraps as will fit. It's always worked well for me...am I the only one? 
i trim the strings to just about inches over the respective machine heads, and that usually has a winding of 2 or 3 times.
BB King and I both wrap the entire string around the post! Wow now I have instant blues credibility!
I'm not sure the number of wraps really matters as much as whether you are careful not to overlap on the post, which is more likely to cause tuning issues.
My personal preference is to leave about 6-7 inches past the tuning machine, snip it, and fit the end down into the post (on my Fenders). That gives me two to three full wraps, and I consistently I wind them DOWN towards the headstock. Play the hell out of the instrument to stretch, retune, and life is good.
Doing this I rarely, if ever, have tuning issues - so I trust that mojo.
My personal preference is to leave about 6-7 inches past the tuning machine, snip it, and fit the end down into the post (on my Fenders). That gives me two to three full wraps, and I consistently I wind them DOWN towards the headstock. Play the hell out of the instrument to stretch, retune, and life is good.
Doing this I rarely, if ever, have tuning issues - so I trust that mojo.
I always try to get as many wraps as will fit. It's always worked well for me...am I the only one?
Nope. That's what I do. I've had problems with <3 wraps, but never problems with >3 (I cut the string enough so that it doesn't overlap on the post though.)
On Fender-style 4 string headstocks that usually means not trimming the D and G string, at least for the strings I buy.
2-3 windings. The string's last winding leaves the post at the bottom. It has to be neat.
It's one of the only things I'm really very tidy about.
It's one of the only things I'm really very tidy about.
Three for me (diabolus in musicae!), but you gotta stretch 'em and retune a few times when you set 'em up!
As I have read about "proper" stringing, you should wind a couple turn (usually 3-4 in my case) but make sure there is no overlap (every turn sits directly on the tuner). Apparently, it can suck tone, though I probably don`t have the ear to notice any difference
Does it for me ...
Don't believe everything you read. There's no way it "sucks tone". Dang, some people think holding their mouth wrong "sucks tone".
The windings around the tuner post are not part of the vibrating portion of the string. As long as the string holds, they're not going to affect the sound.
What is a good idea is to wrap the string from the top of the tuner post down toward the wood, so that the string breaks at a greater angle and gives you a good firm connection over the nut.
Pull the string taught, pinch it at the nut, pull it back 2 frets, pinch it at the machine head I'm attaching it to and put a small kink in the string, then pull it taught past the post and cut/snap it off from there. Put it down into the post, usually get around 3 winds with no overlap and the last one sitting on the bottom. Works like a charm everytime.
Must say, I love the fact Stingrays have tapered machine heads.
Must say, I love the fact Stingrays have tapered machine heads.
I usually end up on 3. My tuners are split-shaft, so I just put the end of the string down into the tuner. No annoying sharp ends stick out and it looks cleaner.
