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How much do you have to baby your B string when you play?

I would like to hear the thing roar, but everytime i do anything more than the most subtle tapping/plucking it buzzes. My action is already sky high, 1/4" off the fretboard, and my relief it proper (credit card thickness), etc.

Was just wondering if this is common to have to barely tap the B string to avoid a rattle, or if I'm doing something wrong that can be fixed.

Cuz this sucks -__-
 
My quick fix for that is to play closer to the bridge with my right hand plucking in as much of a upward fashion as I can in an effort not to slap the B against the fret board. I feel you though. I play a MIM fender V and always dream of a sweeter sounding B.
 
I'm guessing you might want to try a hexcore string like Sadowsky or DR Low Riders. They, by nature, have more tension than the round core strings like DR High Beams. Also like was said before, get a .130 B string. The heavier gauge will cause the string to be tighter. If that doesn't work then maybe you can have a luthier check your set up. He might need to raise the saddle under the B string or adjust the neck somewhat.
 
I would like to hear the thing roar, but everytime i do anything more than the most subtle tapping/plucking it buzzes. My action is already sky high, 1/4" off the fretboard, and my relief it proper (credit card thickness), etc.

Was just wondering if this is common to have to barely tap the B string to avoid a rattle, or if I'm doing something wrong that can be fixed.

Cuz this sucks -__-

Could be a high fret.

Lonnybass
 
I use Jamerson flats on my Carvin 5 and they are cable size thick and the B is a string that needs to be handled. I can play it hard but have to move closer to the bridge and can't slap on it for anything (Carvin string spacing is so close its hard to slap anyway).
 
Playing a Warwick SSII 5 string, the buzz is basically your standard fret buzz, just not enough height it seems for the string to be able to vibrate much and still clear the frets.

But remember the string starts out 1/4" above the fretboard.....and only having buzzes at/above the 4th fret makes me think I just need to straighten my neck.
 
Playing a Warwick SSII 5 string, the buzz is basically your standard fret buzz, just not enough height it seems for the string to be able to vibrate much and still clear the frets.

But remember the string starts out 1/4" above the fretboard.....and only having buzzes at/above the 4th fret makes me think I just need to straighten my neck.

I'm guessing a truss rod adjustment would benefit you immensely. I had a buzz down by the nut under the E string and once it was straightened out it went away.
 
I use a steel hexcore 130 Low B, and round-core nickles for the rest. Plus I set the action of the B a little higher relative to the rest of the strings. Works for me. But I do play the B closer to the bridge and lighten my touch up a little on it.

On my Ibanez, this works great. On my Warwick, I still get a bit of fret sizzle which seems to be characteristic of a lot of Warwicks. Can't hear it live or in recordings, though.
 
In most basses it is almost impossible to have completely no buzz on B string maintaining acceptable action. It's just typical for that string to be buzzy a little. As long as the volume and sustain of notes aren't affected it's ok to have a little buzz.
I don't have to baby with my B string I pluck it as hard as other strings.
 
While I can't "dig in" on the B as much as the other strings to avoid the clanking against the frets, I don't have to baby it either. I play a 35" scale Spector Euro5 LX with DR Nickel Lo-Rider strings having the .125" diameter B string. The available .130 probably would prevent clanking more, but I want a better string to string tone balance between the B and E strings.