Hello, I was planning on restringing a hofner violin bass with daddario chromes. I’m too scared to cut too much off the string since ive done that before. My question is how much string should I cut off? The strings are the medium scale, light gauge chromes btw. I was also wondering if it would be the same if I did the string lock method.
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How much should I cut past the tuners?
- Thread starter Abraham Lopez
- Start date
Keep a balance of 2string post length.
I generally do the same, maybe a bit more with smaller (i.e. not “standard” Fender dimensions) tuning machines.
So would it be a little past the post right, at the post, or slightly behind if you don’t mind me asking?
2 theoretical post in line past the one you’re installing on for length measurement. So E string would be cut to reach right at D post for example on a fender headstock. On G imagine 2 more posts etc
For non fender tuners with no saf t post you can wrap ~two winds up the post then thread string thru the tuner hole and bend the string up away from headstock then tune to pitch before cutting the string and retuning. Make sure to wind the correct direction and don’t twist the string. You can alternatively hold the slack in the correct place and let the tuner slowly take up the slack instead of manually winding the first two.
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On my G&L i measure five inches past the tuner receiving the string ,and it gives me the right amount of wraps on the post.
I've always used the four-finger method.
Measure the string 4 fingers-width past the tuner post.
And I believe it's a good idea to put a 90-degree bend in the string at the point you measured past the tuner post. Then cut the string around an inch past that bend. I was told by a tech that the bend helps prevent the outer layer from unwinding at the cut point. Not everyone believes that, but it's worked for me for almost 50 years.
Measure the string 4 fingers-width past the tuner post.
And I believe it's a good idea to put a 90-degree bend in the string at the point you measured past the tuner post. Then cut the string around an inch past that bend. I was told by a tech that the bend helps prevent the outer layer from unwinding at the cut point. Not everyone believes that, but it's worked for me for almost 50 years.
One "Zoober"...that's 3.5" or 4 fingers beyond the E / 3/8" machine head post. YMMV / it will get you close. You can be far more generous with the narrower gauge strings.
Riis
Riis
I saw this technique on DR string packet, it’s to reduce slippage when trimming round core strings.
Measure the post diameter multiply that by 3.14 that gives you one wrap around the post,now multiply that by how many wraps you want.
This. For the sake of brevity I go 10x post diameter for 3+ wraps. So 5" on a ½" post.
In the case of my Hofner, the post diameter is ~5.5mm, so 55mm or 2¼" past the post works out just about right.
The diameter of the string wrap (to the center/core wire of the string) is a bit bigger - 2 string radii, or 1 string diameter bigger to be precise. For a .100 E string, add .100 to the post diameter, then multiply by your favorite approximation of pi - 22/7, 3.14, or, if you're picky, 3.1415926535.
I was just discussing this with another player yesterday. Personally, I never cut my strings. I start the string in the tuner and twist until the whole string is in place. I believe it adds some depth to the strings tone. It probably doesn't, but I like to think it does and I've always installed my strings this way. A good winder helps.
Be sure to cut the skinny end. If you cut off the brass doodad, it gets much harder to install the string.
Jazzdogg
Less barking, more wagging!
In 55 years as a bassist I have never cut a bass string, and see no reason to - unless the strings were somehow too long for a particular bass.
