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How much should I cut past the tuners?

Make an L with your thumb and index finger. About that long.

although there is something to be said for not cutting a string. Some strings have the core anchored at the bridge end and tuner end. Cutting it could destroy the integrity of the string.

maybe the best option is finding strings that are the correct length to begin with.
 
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As others have indicated, it depends on the size of the string, the diameter of the tuning peg, etc. etc.

FWIW, I always send the cut end of the string down into the tuning peg, so I need to trim the string.

Typically I get pretty close if I start with 5.5" (of extra length past the peg) on the G, and decrease that string-by-string so that I'm down to 3.25" on the B string. Not all basses have string retainers (like the Lakland below) so I try to get most of the peg wrapped with string in order to ensure down-pressure at the nut.

If it looks sorta like this when I'm done, then I'm good.

i-bTgGxFH-X3.jpg
 
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I've always used the four-finger method.

Measure the string 4 fingers-width past the tuner post.

And I believe it's a good idea to put a 90-degree bend in the string at the point you measured past the tuner post. Then cut the string around an inch past that bend. I was told by a tech that the bend helps prevent the outer layer from unwinding at the cut point. Not everyone believes that, but it's worked for me for almost 50 years.
I think the technique you're referring to is "kinking" the strings. That is, cutting the string to length, and then bending the last 1/2'' back on itself and clamping it so it's neat. Then you insert that into the string post with the folded-over string and string as normal.

This is useful for round core strings, as those are the strings most likely to have the windings unravel. But hex core strings "bite" the windings under tension, making this technique unnecessary. A lot of more modern bass tuners also don't accommodate this technique because the doubled-up string won't fit in the post hole if you use heavier gauge strings. I had this issue with my Fender Precision.

The 90 degree bend doesn't hurt, but you don't need to measure anything in order to do this. Just cut the string to length, insert the string in the post hole as deep as it will go, and use the edge of the post hole to bend the string into the angle. Same effect, no measuring.
 
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I think the technique you're referring to is "kinking" the strings. That is, cutting the string to length, and then bending the last 1/2'' back on itself and clamping it so it's neat. Then you insert that into the string post with the folded-over string and string as normal.

This is useful for round core strings, as those are the strings most likely to have the windings unravel. But hex core strings "bite" the windings under tension, making this technique unnecessary. A lot of more modern bass tuners also don't accommodate this technique because the doubled-up string won't fit in the post hole if you use heavier gauge strings. I had this issue with my Fender Precision.

The 90 degree bend doesn't hurt, but you don't need to measure anything in order to do this. Just cut the string to length, insert the string in the post hole as deep as it will go, and use the edge of the post hole to bend the string into the angle. Same effect, no measuring.
Bend the string before you cut, not after.
 
I think the theory goes...
If you cut a string without bending it, the winding could come loose and work its way down the string - messing with intonation, or causing the string to go dead.
If you bend the string first, and cut past the bend, it creates a stopping point for any loose winding.
I guess the internal logic of this makes sense, but I just don't see how doing one before the other could significantly affect the stability of the string. Either way the deformation of the metal/alloy is what's going to keep the string more stable.

Maybe I ought to try it and eat my words, but I've done it cut then bend for years and never had any issues.
 
I guess the internal logic of this makes sense, but I just don't see how doing one before the other could significantly affect the stability of the string. Either way the deformation of the metal/alloy is what's going to keep the string more stable.

Maybe I ought to try it and eat my words, but I've done it cut then bend for years and never had any issues.

Was reading that it makes a difference on strings with a round core.
DR recommends bend, then cut in a few of their models.
 
In 55 years as a bassist I have never cut a bass string, and see no reason to - unless the strings were somehow too long for a particular bass.

I'm very much the same and just want to echo this. I use cut them because it just what everyone else did who I talked to, but honestly when I was switching around flatwounds from an Ibanez to a P-bass, one of my strings couldn't fit and it sucked to lose that so because of that and I switch a lot, I tend to not even cut unless I feel for certain this string will be on this bass for a long while. Rounds I may cut but Flatwounds unless they are super broken into I personally just feel mix about since I only own 2 basses as of now.

So OP, I personally do not cut, however follow the advice you feel is best, and cutting is perfectly fine and great for your bass.
 
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I like to go to the next tuner past the one im stringing to. Then add a little bit more then cut. Round core strings you absolutely should bend the spot you're cutting around 45° or more and cut right at the bend so you're making sure everything stays together. I even do it to hex cores. Just a habit of mine.