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How to apply CA(super)glue to a fingerboard?

#21
Suburban said:
Both CA and epoxi are toxic, in similar ways.

I've recently been wondering about mylar tape, or similar. Metal fretboards don't fit my workshop - gets too hot.
Click to expand...

yes, the difference is that CA will start 'fuming' as soon as you pour it, the epoxy chemical process takes more time and allows you to mix, spread and leave before you come in contact with the fumes.
 
#24
Hambone;

Thanks for sharing your experitise on this subject with us! :)

What brand of cyanoacrylate do you favour ?

Are there any hardness issues ?

Do you offer this service by mail ?
That is, if someone were to send you their bass neck, would you do a cyanoacrylate and send it back ?
 
#27
CA. Never thought about that. Ive used it for many other purposes, and the only thing i can think to throw out is to by some of the de-bonder (yes, it exists) incase you get some finger contact. Not fun...had an index finger become VERY aquainted with a sheet of balsa for a few hours.
 
#28
Waking this up as I'm nearly ready to do it. I got the last difficult frets out of my Washburn AB-20 this morning; still working on purpleheart fretline material. Early on, Hambone said you must remove the neck, but this bass is a set-neck; I'm hoping a good tape job will keep the CA where it belongs..?
 
#30
I just did this to a bloodwood fretless neck on Sunday... but I decided to coat the entire neck. I used the thin "Hot Stuff" CA glue, and wore a latex glove. I then applied the CA and just rubbed it in with my hand (in the glove). I did this over and over for about 10 coats. We'll see if it needs any more in about a week, when I buff it out.
 
#32
Back when I was into modelling, a lot of scale modelers would
combine CA+ with woodglue into a slurry and apply it as a
gap filling material.

I am tempted to go back and do some experimentation with
some of the compounds and materials and see how they perform
and how the color and appearance stands up.

Then, one could also experiment with the whole West System
complex and the associated filler compounds they offer.

Lots of possibilities there.

The one drawback I have found with using CA and CA+
in modelling (not on fretboards) is that any significant buildup
in a fillet can get brittle, and can crack or shatter like a brittle
plastic. Epoxy doesn't have this issue IME, but it can be hard
to level, where the CA is very sandable.
 
#33
I have been using the CA glue to mix with wood dust to fill issues with and it seems to work well. You can also wet sand with the slow set stuff to fill scratchs or if you want to fill grain in a Wenge fingerboard for instance. You can use the fan blowing accross your work like Mr. Bone suggests that helps a lot.
 
#34
This is a CA finish I put on the neck I defretted. I just spread it on using the back of a piece of fine grit wet/dry sandpaper. The plastic bag would probably work fine too.

I didn't even worry about getting it level or even, just slop it on, spread it around, let it dry for an hour or two. Repeat until you're out of glue. I used a $5 bottle of loctite brand superglue from the local hardware store, nothing special. Probably got about 6 coats. No sanding between coats or anything. the last coat was a bit thick, and it was taking too long to harden in the thickest parts. I knew I'd be sanding that bit off anyways, so I just left it on the bathroom counter while I had a shower. (water vapour cures CA very quickly)

It looked really crusty and awful. I sanded up to 480 grit, then wet sanded my way up to 2000 or so.

Cheap, simple, and it looks decent. I can't say much about the durability, since I've been using nylon wrapped strings on it, but it seems nice and hard, judging by the mwah tone.

neckgrain.jpg
shinyboard.jpg
 
#35
Here's the bloodwood neck I put CA on... this is only the first coat, but I *did* rub it out a little, using 1500, 2400, and 3200 Micromesh sheets...

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And here's a shot looking down the neck:

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The latex glove was SUPER easy for applying the CA, and also for handling it briefly after the application (I CA'd the back as well as the front...)
 
#36
I'm currently re-refinish my Warwick neck. I initially applied epoxy, But after a couple of days I really though I should of rounded the edges of the (fret)board. So I stripped all the epoxy off, Did a little wood working and now I'm applying the super glue. Like posted above, I'm just going to rub it all on until it forms a nice thick layer(s) and then sand it down smooth.

Can anyone suggest where I would find sandpaper that goes above 600gritt? I can only manage to find 600 at the highest at Home Depot.
 
#38
i polly'd my fretboard.

Could i possibly sand some of it down, just to get the surface rough and ready for adhering and apply over it? I find that poly takes LONG to dry, attracts dust, and have small but noticeable up-close volcanoes if you know what i mean. And i put on 6 coats too!

Does CA leave a smooth clear finish or a somewhat cloudy-translucent finish? I'm going for a clear mirror finish. This sucker's gotta reflect better than a bug reflector. I use roundwounds and even after 6 coats of the poly, and 3 months later, i still find markings on the board.
 
#39
CA glue has a crystal clear finish... Atleast the kind I use. I think whatever you use sooner or later you will find small marks on the fretboard. The better your polish it up though to long it will last.

I went out and got some 600 gritt sand pape, and some gold/silver polishing compound. I'm going to lighty wet sand the CA finish either tonight or tomorrow with the wet compound.

While I was at it I also rounded the edges of the fretboard :)
 
#40
What kind of super glue is best. Now I'm a little confused here.

CA Is the Same as super Glue, which is the same as the stuff that comes in tiny bottles that require refrigeration correct?

The thing is, it started marking even a week after i applied the polly. Maybe i didn't let it dry long enough. Anyway i'm done with poly.

Any advice about sanding the current surface and applying the CA after?
 

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