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How to apply CA(super)glue to a fingerboard?

What kind of super glue is best. Now I'm a little confused here.

CA Is the Same as super Glue, which is the same as the stuff that comes in tiny bottles that require refrigeration correct?

The thing is, it started marking even a week after i applied the polly. Maybe i didn't let it dry long enough. Anyway i'm done with poly.

Any advice about sanding the current surface and applying the CA after?

I don't know about refrigeration, but yes. Krazy glue, super glue are just two different names for cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. As far as what kind is best, I don't think it much matters. I just used plain ordinary loc tite brand, but it shouldn't make much difference.

It does harden crystal clear, and polishes to a nice shine. (Like in the two photos I posted above).

Polyurethane should be pretty tough too, but depending on variety it may need more time to cure. Also, if you put on the additional coats too soon you can run into problems. It doesn't melt together like laquer. If you recoat it too soon the bottom layers won't harden, since the solvent gets trapped in.

I coated the body of my bass with minwax wipe-on poly, and it felt slightly weird (not quite tacky, but almost) and had a bit of odor for about a week. If that was on a fingerboard, it probably would have worn off in that time before it fully cured.
 
If you go to a model ot hobby shop, you will see that
the formulations sold are CA and CA+. The CA is thinner almost watery, while the CA+ is more viscous.

I do store CA in the fridge as it keeps longer. The vapors are
extremely volatile and cooler temps seem to dufus that
evaporation and clogging the nozzle a bit. But it does not
HAVE to be stored that way.
 
If you go to a model ot hobby shop, you will see that
the formulations sold are CA and CA+. The CA is thinner almost watery, while the CA+ is more viscous.

I do store CA in the fridge as it keeps longer. The vapors are
extremely volatile and cooler temps seem to dufus that
evaporation and clogging the nozzle a bit. But it does not
HAVE to be stored that way.

Yeah, I'd just be worried about condensation seeping in and hardening the glue. I guess it's not a problem though. I've never actually had any problems with it not lasting anyways.

The stuff that I used was quite thin. I have some water thin stuff I used for gluing down stubborn frets which is thinner, but this stuff isn't like the thick gap-filling type either.

-Nick
 
Yeah the super glue tube is inside one of those medication bottles.

And i did this project a few months ago so the poly must have dried by now.
If i use some sand paper to rough it up it should be fine right?

Also, what do i use to polish? I have a few of car polishing products (turtle wax and some other stuff) would that work with CA? I used the turtle wax for the poly, and after a bit i got it to shine. took a while using my hands. haha
 
Yeah the super glue tube is inside one of those medication bottles.

And i did this project a few months ago so the poly must have dried by now.
If i use some sand paper to rough it up it should be fine right?

Also, what do i use to polish? I have a few of car polishing products (turtle wax and some other stuff) would that work with CA? I used the turtle wax for the poly, and after a bit i got it to shine. took a while using my hands. haha

I had a couple of small bottles, I think they held 3ml each or something. I used one bottle, and it would have been enough, but I sanded through in one spot, so had to touch it up with a little bit from the second bottle. I don't bother with the tiny little foil tubes. they're a pain.

I'd probably sand back down to wood. If the poly's messed up, you're probably not going to get a great finish by slopping more on top of it.

I just wet sanded down to 2000 grit or so and it was shiny enough for me. You could keep going with some micromesh, or some fine abrasive polish. I don't think you need wax.

-Nick
 
Well, I don't know about thick, but it does seem reasonably hard, and I think you could polish it as bright as you cared to. It hasn't been on there that long, but I see almost nothing for marks. some very slight scratches, but you would have to be looking for them to see them.
 
Don't try putting any coating over the polyurethane. It won't stick properly. Sand to bare wood. Then the super glue will have a clean surface to bond to and it will also soak into the pores in the wood, resulting in a harder surface.
 
And this stuff dries fast right?

It depends how thick you apply it, but yeah, reasonably quick.
if you keep the coats nice and thin, maybe an hour or so per coat.
maybe a couple hours at the end so it's good and hard before you sand it.

I didn't worry about it getting ugly in the process. It doesn't seem necessary to sand between coats, just keep adding coats until you figure it's thick enough. I did around 6 I think, but I accidentally sanded through in one patch, so I did another one which was extra heavy in that area, and let it cure longer, since it was a thicker coat.

It looked all crusty and terrible. I just sanded it down with the radius block until it looked good.

A couple warnings, besides the obvious not gluing yourself.

It gives off some nasty vapors. I don't think they're especially bad compared to a lot of glues, but probably best to avoid them. they'll sting your eyes and nose. some basic active ventilation(a small fan) should help a lot to keep them out of your face while you're applying it.

Don't spill it on your clothes. It reacts with cotton producing a lot of heat(enough to burn you), and lots of CA steam. Not pleasant at all. Some paper towel seems to do this as well. I wiped up a small puddle that I spilled on my workbench and it got so hot that I actually thought it was going to catch fire.

A shortcut if you do like I did and apply a later coat overthick: The stuff actually cures from water vapor in the air. If you've got a bit where you put it on too thick, and know you're just going to be sanding it off anyways, you can harden it faster by putting it in a steamy room. (I just through it on the bathroom counter, and had a shower) Probably holding it over a boiling pot or kettle would work as well. It'll dry very cloudy or even crusty white when you do this. I just had one spot which was taking hours to dry and didn't feel like waiting anymore. I knew I was sanding it off so I figured "why wait?"

-Nick
 
I recently did something similar to my Ovation Magnum that I defretted. I like the feel and the tone of the ebony board, but I wanted to make it stronger so it wouldn't get chewed up by the roundwounds I use. I thought I'd try to impregnate the ebony with some CA and see if it would strengthen the wood any.

What I did is tape off the whole board, coated it with CA, and used a plastic spatula to spread the CA to a somewhat even layer. I let that cure overnight inside a cardboard box to keep dust from getting in it, and then added another layer the next day. Once it was cured completely, I sanded it all the way down to the bare wood again - just enough to expose the board, but not enough to dig out all the CA that had seeped into the grain. Essentially I hardened the ebony, without changing the tone nor feel of the instrument. Now the strings barely scratch the wood at all - I'm pretty pleased with the results.