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How To Change A Stingray Pickup?
- Thread starter Basil007
- Start date
The pickup is passive. Its connected to an active preamp.
Unsolder old pickup - solder new pickup.
Unsolder old pickup - solder new pickup.
Yup, this^
As long as you get the same number of conductors and the same coil configuration it should be a direct swap. You'll have to know which conductor goes to which side of which coil in both pickups but that should be easy info to find (or to test for with a multi meter)
A stock 4-string Stingray pickup is wired Parallel under the pickup cover and the preamp only has 2 leads soldered to it.
A replacement aftermarket pickup will most likely have a 4-wire lead extending from the coils which will need to be connected in either parallel or series, however you prefer. the pickup will most likely come with a legend and wiring examples.
A replacement aftermarket pickup will most likely have a 4-wire lead extending from the coils which will need to be connected in either parallel or series, however you prefer. the pickup will most likely come with a legend and wiring examples.
Curious as to why you would do this with a Stingray (unless it’s one of the cheaper Asian made SBMM’s)? I thought most of the replacements were pretty similar to the original?
Thanks for that. Which is recommended? (Series vs. parallel)
I strive to be a non-technical sort of player. I like to just grab a bass and dig in and I'm not up on why one would want series or parallel. (I know, theoretically what series and parallel are. If nothing else I learned it in physics classes.)
I strive to be a non-technical sort of player. I like to just grab a bass and dig in and I'm not up on why one would want series or parallel. (I know, theoretically what series and parallel are. If nothing else I learned it in physics classes.)
From Seymour Duncan's website:
"Pickups wired in parallel are brighter sounding and have considerably less output than an identical pickup wired in series."
That's a great question. I've got this beautiful Stingray Classic. I bought it after trying it in a music store and falling in love with the neck. I'd already owned a Stingray with unimpeachable tone so I assumed that the tone on the Classic would be really good.
I can usually get a great sound out of the Classic but there are times when I get a "dogpoopie" sound out of the A and the E. I don't understand why it happens at times and doesn't occur at other times. I've never had the problem with any of the other basses I've owned.
Given my deep and abiding love for the feel of the Classic I'm thinking of dropping a different pickup in it to see if I can get a better sound.
I can usually get a great sound out of the Classic but there are times when I get a "dogpoopie" sound out of the A and the E. I don't understand why it happens at times and doesn't occur at other times. I've never had the problem with any of the other basses I've owned.
Given my deep and abiding love for the feel of the Classic I'm thinking of dropping a different pickup in it to see if I can get a better sound.
The wiring has been covered correctly above. What you will find, however, is that there is absolutely no slack in the connection to the preamp. This will force you to clip, rather than unsolder, the wires. Then it’s a relatively straightforward job to extend the wires from the existing preamp to give you some play when you install the new pickup.
I just undertook a swap out of the stock (4 knob) preamp for a John East preamp and this was my experience. Either my bass was an oddity or the magic of automated assembly allows for incredibly tight tolerances when it was assembled. The only wires that had some slack were those from the preamp to the jack.
I just undertook a swap out of the stock (4 knob) preamp for a John East preamp and this was my experience. Either my bass was an oddity or the magic of automated assembly allows for incredibly tight tolerances when it was assembled. The only wires that had some slack were those from the preamp to the jack.
Dumb question, but have you changed the battery? Also, the classic uses the 2 band preamp which will sound different from the 3 band which most folks are familiar with. Only mentioning that because you may run into a similar issue with a new pickup.
DON'T change the pickup! Trust me, it won't make much of a difference.
The pickup itself is one of the least important factors in a Stingray (and most active basses in general). As long as it's positioned properly and it's a good-quality pickup (which it is if you have a MM Stingray) then just leave it be.
Here's 4 things that will have a much higher impact on your tone (and 2 of them don't cost money):
1) Adjust the pickup height - Stingray's are known for having a HUGE E and A string but then lack something in the other 2, especially the 2-band Stingrays. You can lower the "bass" side of the pickup or increase the "treble" side of the pickup (or both if you want to)
2) Adjust your action - Stingray's are very sensitive if you have a lower action. Since it's a HIGH clarity bass, everything you do will be heard - that includes fret buzzing. Me personally I love the Stingray's slight fret buzzing when digging in, it seems "ugly" solo but in a mix it really gives you that attack to punch through. But some people might not like it. So adjust your action accordingly.
3) Change your strings - as I said, the Stingray's are a high clarity bass that really reflect everything you put on them, moreso than most basses. Strings are essential to get the sound you're looking for in your 'Ray. Now it all depends on what tone you want, I'd need more info, but strings really make a HUGE difference on the Stingray bass.
4) Change the preamp - last resort option, if none of the 3 above work for you, a preamp change will have a much bigger impact on your tone than a pickup change. There's plenty of preamp options around and all of them are slightly different.
p.s: this goes without saying on active basses, but make sure the battery is working fine. if it's not, you'll hear it - your bass volume will be much lower and even when you're playing clean your tone will sound like it's distorted.
skyline_01
Endorsing artist: Nordstrand Audio, Tsunami Cables
I have to agree with this, especially since it's a Classic. If you do steps 1-3 above and still are not satisfied then consider the preamp. John East seems to be a popular one for Stingray upgrades, and Nordstrand makes fantastic preamps including the 2B-MM which is a faithful reproduction of the Classic pre.
maybe it's the room you're playing in. I mean if it sounds good sometimes and other times it doesn't...
Parallel is the classic configuration. But series is REALLY nice. I kind of like both. I like the punch of the series configuration, it fits the 2EQ preamp better than wired in parallel, for my liking.
If you like prominent low mids, series might make you smile more. Both configurations are good.
