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How to clean up sticker glu?

#21
I think the job is more than removing glue, now. The surface itself has been retextured by the foam's texture. It is grainy in appearance.

Foam was not a good idea, apparently.

I am going to post a new thread or look for one about how to restore the polish almost to new condition.
 
#22
You seem to have been confused about whether the problem is adhesive or not. You also are a bit vague on the meaning of "polish".

To polish something normally implies the use of a substance with a certain amount of abrasive material. 'Polishing" in this sense means to remove part of the surface by rubbing the abrasive against the surface. In removing this surface material, you remove imperfections or roughness but make the entire layer thinner because you have removed part of it.

If the imperfections in the surface are deeper than the final layer (usually clear), then polishing out those imperfections results in removing the entire surface layer in the affected area. That is often a much worse problem than leaving it alone.

After you have smoothed the surface with abrasive, it is common to apply a non-abrasive protective layer to the surface - this is also commonly called "polish", although its function is quite different than the other material I discussed.

Figure out what your need is, what substances you need to apply based on that need, and if removing the roughness would also remove the surface layer, STOP and leave it as is.
 
#26
NickInMesa said:
Pilgrim, it did start as a glue removal issue (solved) and evolved to a different question.

I am thinking about different options here, including leaving it alone and calling it a scar, or buffing and polishing.
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Right - and I suspect you have it narrowed down to residual surface damage. I strongly recommend NOT trying strong solvents (especially gasoline or any related substance) on it, as all you can achieve would be to damage the finish.

I think you have to decide whether or not to mess with it further, and it sounds like you're inclining to let it be. If you try some careful buffing (by hand, NOT with a buffing wheel) with a very mild adhesive and check the result often, you should be OK. You just don't want to penetrate any clear coat or other final finish layer.

Aside from that, I'd suggest that you shine it up and play it. :D

Edit: I just spotted this note in a related thread. Please read the thread and look for this post, which contains a link:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69483

"Micromesh abrasives followed by some Meguiar's #9. Micromesh kits are available from Stew-Mac and other suppliers. The grits range from 1,500 to 12,000. That's not a typo. The abrasive system is used with a foam backer pad and water. You don't have to push hard. I do a random circular pattern. Others will sand with the grain. Choice is yours. Start with 3200 grit and see if that removes the scratches in a reasonable amount of time. If it doesn't, move back a step until the scratches disappear and you have an even scratch pattern. Make sure to clean up after each grit. Finish up with some Meguiar's #9 on a soft cloth. Total time, if you are handy, is about twenty minutes for a 5-15 sq. in. area if the scratches are not deep. It takes some elbow grease but you should be able to restore the finish to a pristine surface."
 
#28
NickInMesa said:
Well why not a buffing wheel?
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Because it's killing a fly with an elephant gun. Your chances of going too hard and too deep with a buffing wheel are probably 100 times greater than if you do this by hand. You want to do as little abrasive work as possible...and power tools are not the way to achieve this. Use your hands, and check the result every few strokes. If it takes you half an hour checking after every half-dozens strokes, that's probably a good thing, not a drawback.
 
#30
NickInMesa said:
Thanks, Pilgrim.

What type of tool would you recommend?
Click to expand...

Hmmm...I'm really open to suggestions. I looked back through the thread to see if there was a photo of the affected area. Knowing whether it's on a flat or curved surface would help. I'm guessing it's on a flat area, since most guys would probably put a sticker on a flat spot.

Lots of people use Meguiar's finishing products, and I'm sure they're good. I have used different materials. Depending on the size of the affected area, I think I'd probably use either a sanding block with a foam base (for a large area) or a 9V battery (small area) and mount 800 or 1000 grit wet/dry paper on it. I'd moisten the paper with mineral spirits (paint thinner-doesn't make wood expand if it gets into a pickup cutout), sand just a few strokes at a time, and keep an extremely sharp eye out for any sign that I was sanding through a clear finish layer.

When I thought I'd just about gotten it as good as I could without going through the finish, I'd go to 1200, then 2000 wet/dry paper.

I'd then polish the surface with 3-M Finesse-It II machine polish, which is very mildly abrasive, but wouldn't do more than take out the sanding scratches. I have a buffing wheel that I can chuck up in a 3/8" drive drill and I'd probably try that very gently and briefly if hand-polishing wasn't turning out the smooth surface I wanted.

This may sound like a contradiction to the buffer advice I gave earlier, but I'm suggesting a very light application with a relatively low-speed buffing mechanism, and only to achieve the final surface polish, not to remove the imperfections.

I don't think that we know whether this bass is finished in poly or lacquer, but since the finish distorted under the sticker I'm making the assumption that it's lacquer and therefore vulnerable to this process. I don't think poly would have reacted that way.

Others may have equally good or better suggestions....
 
#31
NickInMesa said:
The surface itself has been retextured by the foam's texture. It is grainy in appearance.
Click to expand...

If you run your finger nail over the surface, can you feel the texture?

Without being able to view the affected area, it maybe that the etching is too deep to polish out. In addition, if the affected area has variable depth, attempting to polish it out may take out too much of the finish.

Anyway to post a pic of the damage with a camera that has a macro feature?

IMO, if you can't see the affected area from 2-3 feet away, I would call it the start of a nice relic finish, get to playing and not worry about it.

Alternately, you may want to take it to a luthier and get an expert opinion on what it would take to remove it.
 
#32
Stumbo said:
Without being able to view the affected area, it maybe that the etching is too deep to polish out. In addition, if the affected area has variable depth, attempting to polish it out may take out too much of the finish.

IMO, if you can't see the affected area from 2-3 feet away, I would call it the start of a nice relic finish, get to playing and not worry about it.

Alternately, you may want to take it to a luthier and get an expert opinion on what it would take to remove it.
Click to expand...

I completely agree with ALL those comments.
 
#33
Pilgrim said:
Every now and then, sticking tape with a strong adhesive on top of left-over adhesive will enable you to pull off the old adhesive by puling the tape off. Seems like the tape's adhesive gets a pretty good pull on the old residue. Might be worth a try with a small piece of duct tape.
Click to expand...

This works very well in a lot of cases without screwing up the finish. It works real well getting sticker goo off DVD/CD cases as well.
 

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