How to ground to shielding?? Need advice.

[DiabolusInMusic]

I think the clear coat is sprayed on after the shielding paint has been applied, so the shielding paint gets clear-coated too. I can't see any good reason to do it this way, but I guess it makes sense on the Fender assembly line.

Fender sprays their conductive paint over the clear. At least every post-2008 Fender or Squier I have worked on did.

 

[Turnaround]

Fender sprays their conductive paint over the clear. At least every post-2008 Fender or Squier I have worked on did.

That doesn't explain why there's a gloss coat over the label that's over the black shielding paint.

 

[bhoff5150]

Results are in. Picked up some star type crimp eyes without the plastic piece/sleeve and crimped the wires to it and then soldered them also. Ran a screw through the side of the cavity. Bass is dead quiet in active and passive mode. It looks to me like they clear coated over the conductive paint. My custom shop jazz is the same way and it is also dead quiet.

Here are some pictures of the final product (although they are dark and crappy)

 

[jamro217]

I have done this as well. You do not have to use copper shielding to achieve that trick but you do need to use conductive adhesive copper tape. I would probably just solder a wire right onto the copper tape if the shielding was done with tape but either method performs just as well.

@jamro217 do you mean aluminum foil? That is actually the worst material for the job, by far. It is only marginally cheaper than getting copper tape from China too. I have worked extensively with aluminum and copper tape as well as conductive paint. I prefer paint but I use copper tape in all my jobs as well.

No, it's a roll of thin copper. Thicker than paper, but not as thick as cardboard. I got a big roll of it years ago at a thrift store. I don't know what it's original purpose was or how it was sold. (I got it rolled up with a price tag at one end. I think it was $2 or $3 back in the mid '80's.)

 

[tzohn]

No, it's a roll of thin copper. Thicker than paper, but not as thick as cardboard. I got a big roll of it years ago at a thrift store. I don't know what it's original purpose was or how it was sold. (I got it rolled up with a price tag at one end. I think it was $2 or $3 back in the mid '80's.)

I have used copper foil instead of copper tape and you can find this at hobby art shops. I got 0.004 thickness and made this:

 

[jamro217]

I have used copper foil instead of copper tape and you can find this at hobby art shops. I got 0.004 thickness and made this:

View attachment 1012650

That's great!

 

[DiabolusInMusic]

I have used copper foil instead of copper tape and you can find this at hobby art shops. I got 0.004 thickness and made this:

View attachment 1012650

That does look good but how long did it take? Once the guts are pulled, it takes me about 30 minutes with paint to do a bass and about 25 minutes of that is letting the paint dry.

 

[tzohn]

That does look good but how long did it take? Once the guts are pulled, it takes me about 30 minutes with paint to do a bass and about 25 minutes of that is letting the paint dry.

Thanks Diabolus.
Well, it was first time I did this so it certainly took more time than if I would have to do it again. So I can only assume if you have the foil and the template, cutting it, fitting inside nicely and stable (the foil is "springy") and soldering it would take about 20-30 min. But you know, if you want to do this on permanent basis for customers you can reduce the time even further.

 

[ricardol]

Twisting the insulated wires of the pickup leads together around each other for their whole length might also reduce electromagnetic induced interference and reduce the "buzz":