Alright, I'm 15 years old and, though I haven't had much experiance, I'm not to good at it. I was wondering if any of you old pro's could help me out with haggling at just about anything. Any general tips, tactics, etc. (I'm asking because I'm going to a sale tommorow). Thanks.
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How to Haggle?
- Thread starter Kruton
- Start date
I'm not particularly great at it either, but when motivated I will usually say something like "I am really interested in buying this, but it's a little more than I had planed on spending. It's this your best price?"
Be prepared to walk away if they don't budge.
If they still don't budge go back if you can't live with out it.
Good luck!
Be prepared to walk away if they don't budge.
If they still don't budge go back if you can't live with out it.
Good luck!
Just be polite and mature about it. Acting tough or indifferent will get you nowhere.
Say you see a bass for 575 , you could ask their bottom dollar( or make them a ridiculous offer). All they can say is no. They make you a bottom dollar of 525, throw 375 back at them.they say no or come back with an even lower # than they started with.If they won't budge you have to make a desicion to walk away or take it. Walk away and maybe work on another salesperson a little later, You'd be suprised that one guy won't deal and another might. That is my basics of haggling.All they can say is no
#1 Never let them see how bad you want something
#2 never discuss how much money you have or plan on spending, this tells them exactly where to steer you, tell them you are concerened with getting the best deal.
You are there to buy what you want, not what they think you can afford while maximizing thier commision.
#3 slow down and think about everything you are going to say before you respond.
#4 all they can say is no, they are not going to get mad, throw you out ect...
they may seem aggravated or seem strong but do the same thing in a friendly way.
remain friendly, smile!
remain calm.
never get angry or antsy.
do not get intimidated or defensive for any reason as that shows weakness, it should be a friendly transaction.
do not blurt responses out
Always be friendly, polite and smile .But reamin tough, it will get you a lot farther than one could ever imagine. I cannot say enough about having a positive attitude ( charm) , it works wonders.
I should work on mine as I have been kind of a jerk lately!!!!
Say you see a bass for 575 , you could ask their bottom dollar( or make them a ridiculous offer). All they can say is no. They make you a bottom dollar of 525, throw 375 back at them.they say no or come back with an even lower # than they started with.If they won't budge you have to make a desicion to walk away or take it. Walk away and maybe work on another salesperson a little later, You'd be suprised that one guy won't deal and another might. That is my basics of haggling.All they can say is no
#1 Never let them see how bad you want something
#2 never discuss how much money you have or plan on spending, this tells them exactly where to steer you, tell them you are concerened with getting the best deal.
You are there to buy what you want, not what they think you can afford while maximizing thier commision.
#3 slow down and think about everything you are going to say before you respond.
#4 all they can say is no, they are not going to get mad, throw you out ect...
they may seem aggravated or seem strong but do the same thing in a friendly way.
remain friendly, smile!
remain calm.
never get angry or antsy.
do not get intimidated or defensive for any reason as that shows weakness, it should be a friendly transaction.
do not blurt responses out
Always be friendly, polite and smile .But reamin tough, it will get you a lot farther than one could ever imagine. I cannot say enough about having a positive attitude ( charm) , it works wonders.
I should work on mine as I have been kind of a jerk lately!!!!
know how much what you're thinking of buying is worth, this way you don't over pay, if they ask you how much you'll spend make them tell you how much they want first, and go from there
Be informed about the product, and be prepared to walk away. Unless it's some kind of crazy rare used item, whatever sale price or bargain you think you might get will come around again.
Peter Griffin had some good advice, but I will disagree on one point and say that most salesguys don't react well when you low-ball them. (Offering a ridiculously and obviously low price.) They might not be willing to play along if you shoot them a silly number that's way too low.
Peter Griffin had some good advice, but I will disagree on one point and say that most salesguys don't react well when you low-ball them. (Offering a ridiculously and obviously low price.) They might not be willing to play along if you shoot them a silly number that's way too low.
On most stuff, you should try to atleast walk out with $100.00 off and no tax. That's the deal I recieved on each of my Ampeg/Fender parts.
1.) go to the bathroom before a prolonged haggle sesion, if you have to ask to leave it seems like you are wearing down and they have you in corner, even if you only have to pee
2.) find some minute flaw and overemphasize it's affect on you wanting the item
2.) find some minute flaw and overemphasize it's affect on you wanting the item
This is all great advice, and similar to what I do.
It's important to first know how much you can afford to spend. Once you figure out your budget, remember you may have to pay additional costs such as taxes or shipping. Then, take that amount you're willing to spend, and create another amount significantly lower. This will give you a "range" of dollars you're prepared to spend. Ideally, you'll spend towards the low end of the range, but don't pass the upper end of the range.
Next is the fun part. I like to do some research on the web to see what a bass or a car (or whatever) is selling for. I look at all of the products that fall within that particular category and get a lay of the land. By lay of the land, I mean some manufacturers have certain features others don't and vice versa. It's largely marketing hype, so don't fall for it, but rather understand it. Sometimes that marketing hype creates a feature on a bass you later find you couldn't live without.
After you understand the marketplace, put the first two things together: budget and product range. Now you've got a strong idea of which you can target in your search and which you can blow off.
If you're buying from a retailer, there's almost always room to haggle. Some people like to talk about the "standard 30%" discount in the musical instrument industry. It's not bad information to have, but it doesn't have to drive your purchase price. Here's an example:
I string my Spector with DR Highbeams. When I first discovered these strings before I'd ever heard about the Internet (am I dating myself too much here?), the local dealer offered the strings for $27 / set. He showed me the MSRP which was well into the $50s, and said I was getting "much more than the standard 30% discount" because "I'm such a valued customer". Occasionally I'd go in there and his partner would ring me up for $25 / set and say that's almost his cost, so he couldn't go any lower. These two kooky guys would argue over the distributor's price increase or decrease, and how it would affect the consumer...endless, meaningless discussion in front of paying customer.
So, armed with the $25 amount that I'd happily scored such an amazing price, I saw some blowout sale GC had a month later for $24 / set. So, I went into GC, became friendly with the Accessories manager, and let him show my a MIM Jazz, a Sans Amp Bass Driver DI (still available for sale), and a Boss PH-3 Phase. He rang up the accessories and asked me if I needed anything else. I said, "Yeah...what are you getting for your DR Highbeams, 4-string set?" Are they really the $34 price you've got listed on the wall?
Two or three minutes pass watching him punch buttons on his keyboard, I discovered he was trying to figure out a trule good deal on strings. Then he replied, with a straight face, I can get them to you for $16 / set. When I heard that number, I nearly crapped in my pants and had to take 4 sets!
There's actually a point I'm trying to make...at least in this business, there is so much BS built in to the profit margin that if you're a sophisticated buyer, you can suck away some of that BS.
Keep it straight: know what you can afford, consider everything in your price range. Lastly, stick to your guns. Remember...many salespeople are on commission. If he can't get you to a price you agree on, he's losing commission to someone else. If he wants to be a success, he's going to work with you.
I'll also say this...in a consumer-centric society, it's valuable to treat these sales people kindly. If they feel like they're doing business with a friend, the psychology takes over the transaction, it'll be a done deal. Just make sure you stick to your guns.
It's important to first know how much you can afford to spend. Once you figure out your budget, remember you may have to pay additional costs such as taxes or shipping. Then, take that amount you're willing to spend, and create another amount significantly lower. This will give you a "range" of dollars you're prepared to spend. Ideally, you'll spend towards the low end of the range, but don't pass the upper end of the range.
Next is the fun part. I like to do some research on the web to see what a bass or a car (or whatever) is selling for. I look at all of the products that fall within that particular category and get a lay of the land. By lay of the land, I mean some manufacturers have certain features others don't and vice versa. It's largely marketing hype, so don't fall for it, but rather understand it. Sometimes that marketing hype creates a feature on a bass you later find you couldn't live without.
After you understand the marketplace, put the first two things together: budget and product range. Now you've got a strong idea of which you can target in your search and which you can blow off.
If you're buying from a retailer, there's almost always room to haggle. Some people like to talk about the "standard 30%" discount in the musical instrument industry. It's not bad information to have, but it doesn't have to drive your purchase price. Here's an example:
I string my Spector with DR Highbeams. When I first discovered these strings before I'd ever heard about the Internet (am I dating myself too much here?), the local dealer offered the strings for $27 / set. He showed me the MSRP which was well into the $50s, and said I was getting "much more than the standard 30% discount" because "I'm such a valued customer". Occasionally I'd go in there and his partner would ring me up for $25 / set and say that's almost his cost, so he couldn't go any lower. These two kooky guys would argue over the distributor's price increase or decrease, and how it would affect the consumer...endless, meaningless discussion in front of paying customer.
So, armed with the $25 amount that I'd happily scored such an amazing price, I saw some blowout sale GC had a month later for $24 / set. So, I went into GC, became friendly with the Accessories manager, and let him show my a MIM Jazz, a Sans Amp Bass Driver DI (still available for sale), and a Boss PH-3 Phase. He rang up the accessories and asked me if I needed anything else. I said, "Yeah...what are you getting for your DR Highbeams, 4-string set?" Are they really the $34 price you've got listed on the wall?
Two or three minutes pass watching him punch buttons on his keyboard, I discovered he was trying to figure out a trule good deal on strings. Then he replied, with a straight face, I can get them to you for $16 / set. When I heard that number, I nearly crapped in my pants and had to take 4 sets!
There's actually a point I'm trying to make...at least in this business, there is so much BS built in to the profit margin that if you're a sophisticated buyer, you can suck away some of that BS.
Keep it straight: know what you can afford, consider everything in your price range. Lastly, stick to your guns. Remember...many salespeople are on commission. If he can't get you to a price you agree on, he's losing commission to someone else. If he wants to be a success, he's going to work with you.
I'll also say this...in a consumer-centric society, it's valuable to treat these sales people kindly. If they feel like they're doing business with a friend, the psychology takes over the transaction, it'll be a done deal. Just make sure you stick to your guns.
This posting from a housing finance blog may be more than you are looking for; but it does a good job at explaining the tactics haggling in the big leagues - a Middle Eastern souk.
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If you're Haggling with a retail store, it's easy. Most places want to beat or at least match prices with other retailers.
Do your homework.
Stores will only match or beat advertised prices. Go on the Internet and print out prices of other stores. Make sure the products are in-stock.
Find out which store offer free shipping and handling. Sometimes s/h can be really expensive!
Also, find out if you will be charged tax for the item. Music123 wasn't going to charge tax for my TRB1006 if I ordered it from them. They weren't giving me a special deal, that's just the way it is. I didn't ask questions.
Go into (or call if it's mail order) the store where you would like to purchase. Tell them that you'd like to make your purchase with them, but you will probably make it with another place because you can get it for less. Most places will match or beat that price to get your business.
I do this all the time. I sounds like a lot of work, but you can save a lot. I did this when I purchased my TRB1006 from GC. The downside was that I had to wait for one to come in (it was on backorder). I didn't want to get it in the mail at my home. I wanted to open the package at the store in front of the sales person just incase it got damaged in shipping. Ok; so what, I'm paranoid.
And like everyone else said, be nice (but don't kiss butt, that's just gross).
Joe
Do your homework.
Stores will only match or beat advertised prices. Go on the Internet and print out prices of other stores. Make sure the products are in-stock.
Find out which store offer free shipping and handling. Sometimes s/h can be really expensive!
Also, find out if you will be charged tax for the item. Music123 wasn't going to charge tax for my TRB1006 if I ordered it from them. They weren't giving me a special deal, that's just the way it is. I didn't ask questions.
Go into (or call if it's mail order) the store where you would like to purchase. Tell them that you'd like to make your purchase with them, but you will probably make it with another place because you can get it for less. Most places will match or beat that price to get your business.
I do this all the time. I sounds like a lot of work, but you can save a lot. I did this when I purchased my TRB1006 from GC. The downside was that I had to wait for one to come in (it was on backorder). I didn't want to get it in the mail at my home. I wanted to open the package at the store in front of the sales person just incase it got damaged in shipping. Ok; so what, I'm paranoid.
And like everyone else said, be nice (but don't kiss butt, that's just gross).
Joe
My opening tactic is simply just to ask the price. i KNOW it's got $300 written on it, but I want to know much it actually costs. "How much can you do this for?" usually gets $50 off.
Whatever he's dropped it by then double it. He's probably offering $250 now, so you can probably shoot for $200 (or less!), so you can use that as the basis of your offer.
Don't be surprised by the "have to ask the manager", or "look it up in the book" type play. Smile nice, and tell them thats fine by you, and just wait for calmly for them to act out whatever shenanigans they want to pull.
Talk as knowledgbly about the product as you can - point out it's a less desirable model/bad year etc You're basically pulling the same thing they do to dumb punters, but in reverse. Make it clear you know what you're buying as well or better than they do.
When he puts down what you think is the best deal he's going to make, thats when you pull out the "extras". It does come with a case right? How about some spare strings, and a strap? They can take a bit more of a squeeze on these - after all that $100 case only cost them $30, so they can give you a $100 of extras far more easily than giving you $100 off. It also means they're shifting stock, so the $100/$30 case might only cost them $20 if they bundle one with every bass sold.
Just go for it - whats the worst thing that happens? You end up paying sticker price, which is what you would do anyway.
Ian
Whatever he's dropped it by then double it. He's probably offering $250 now, so you can probably shoot for $200 (or less!), so you can use that as the basis of your offer.
Don't be surprised by the "have to ask the manager", or "look it up in the book" type play. Smile nice, and tell them thats fine by you, and just wait for calmly for them to act out whatever shenanigans they want to pull.
Talk as knowledgbly about the product as you can - point out it's a less desirable model/bad year etc You're basically pulling the same thing they do to dumb punters, but in reverse. Make it clear you know what you're buying as well or better than they do.
When he puts down what you think is the best deal he's going to make, thats when you pull out the "extras". It does come with a case right? How about some spare strings, and a strap? They can take a bit more of a squeeze on these - after all that $100 case only cost them $30, so they can give you a $100 of extras far more easily than giving you $100 off. It also means they're shifting stock, so the $100/$30 case might only cost them $20 if they bundle one with every bass sold.
Just go for it - whats the worst thing that happens? You end up paying sticker price, which is what you would do anyway.
Ian
I bought a printer last month from CompUSA for my parents' anniversary. When the salesman realized I was price shopping and had done my homework, he not only met another store's price, but tried to upsell me...the way he upsold me was offering additional discounts on things I'd have otherwise passed on.Bassist4Life said:
Sometimes sales people earn commission or bonuses or perks based on the quantity of merchandise or extras that they sell. Thus, you might ask the question, "if I were to also buy this, can you...???"
Don't come in with this negative attitude either. Sales folks have to make money. Keep this in mind.IanStephenson said:
I've had store owners tell me before, "Buy it from them."
I told a small mom/pop store that I could get an item for less at another store. And that's what they told me.
I appreciated the straight forward approach. No games.
Joe
I told a small mom/pop store that I could get an item for less at another store. And that's what they told me.
I appreciated the straight forward approach. No games.
Joe
This is not a bad thing for him either. They expect to discount damaged merchandise.Latest posts
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