How to make sticky flats slippery?

[dukeandrews]

I've done a fair bit of research on strings for my fretless P. I was very hopeful for cobalt flats. I know flats take a while to settle in, so I can be patient with the tone. But I have not seen anything on TB about the cobalt's stickiness. Is there anything I can do to make them less sticky? It is very annoying, especially on the fretless. I love the slipperiness of my old TI flats. Is there any way to make the Cobalts slippery like the TIs?

Thanks!

 

[bolophonic]

I have a set of Labellas that are so sticky, I can't even use them.

 

[RawOrange]

Take your plucking fingers and rub them on your forhead and nose to get a nice coating of slick face grease. Works like a charm.

*only semi kidding, this actually works.

 

[carl h.]

Fried chicken is an old standard.

 

[Camaro]

Just clean them with denatured alcohol.

 

[SLaPiNFuNK]

Almond oil. It will be good for your fingerboard too... Put like a dime size dab in the palm of your hand, rub on your hands, then rub on your strings first then the back of the neck if you want too... Grab it from a healthfood store... Look for almond oil without any additives if possible.

 

[JustForSport]

As suggested above- alcohol first: denatured is best as it has no water in it, 91% rubbing alcohol if denatured is not avail.

My new set of EB Cobalt flats was pretty sticky, so I just wetted a rag with 91% rubbing alcohol (didn't have any denatured on hand), and just rubbed the strings back and forth a few times with the rag.
NO more sticky. This is just to remove any manufacturing residue from rollers, guides, polishing, etc. They dry quickly and are ready to install and play.

I don't ever add any kind of lubes, slicks, oils, greases, or anything that will leave a residue and quickly fill the gaps between the wraps.
This stuff (excluding maybe silicones) never stays in the same state it was when applied, and what happens when salts and oils from playing combines with what's already there?
Plus all that stuff cannot be removed by wiping, as that just cleans the top or outer surface, and everything else is still between the wraps. Sort of like wiping mud off of tire treads.

Some may like to fill the gaps quickly as it can help 'age' the strings.
Oil or grease in between the wraps may also help seal sweat and the acids and oils in it from getting to the core, which can extend life.

All depends what you prefer.

 

[Luckydog]

First you need to mechanically remove any laquer, dried machine oil, grit, whatever that may be left on them. Use 0000 steel wool, rubbing them well. Do this off the bass. Fix the ball end into something solid, then grab the tuner end and steel wool them very well. You wont hurt them with a lot of pressure. After that, use a rag to wipe off all loose residue including steel bits. After that, if you wish, you can use whatever you like as a lube, if you even need it. I've use plain hand lotion, mineral oil, or whatever. You might not want or need lube at all. Some ppl think that step will damage the strings. It wont any more than years of handling them with greasy hands.

The smoothing step with the steel wool is the most important and effective thing you can do.

 

[dukeandrews]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. Tried the denatured alchahol with no change. Played the cobalts tonight and couldn't take the feel. Then did some string swapping tonight and put the TIs back on the fretless. I'll try the steel wool on the Cobalts. If that works I'll put them on my fretted P. Thanks again.

 

[iiipopes]

As suggested above- alcohol first: denatured is best as it has no water in it, 91% rubbing alcohol if denatured is not avail.

Um, right idea, wrong nomenclature. The word for no water is anhydrous. Denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol with methyl alcohol or other chemicals added to it so it is not drinkable. It can be in any solution percentage, although denatured alcohol is usually made anhydrous for commercial use.

 

[quickfix]

Too much water in the 91% isoprop. Better to get the 99%.

 

[tjh]

.. some string types are just not conducive for some skin types ... I have tried TI's several times, and I can clean them all I want but they just never get as smooth to me as some of the others (stainless) ... I can usually get by with a dusting of baby powder on my hands if needed, but if in the middle of a song and it gets sticky I will do the nose/forehead swipe ... but my little travel size baby powder is never far away ...

 

[Winterglo]

Works for me.

 

[4stringfarley]

Use them.

 

[JustForSport]

The word for no water is anhydrous.

Ha, ok, different words, same thing. Hadn't noticed that on a label, but maybe just grabbed the can...

So SoCal is 'anhydrous'- no water in it?

 

[michael_t]

I've used four different kinds of flats so far - D'A Chromes, Fender 9050, La Bella DTF & Sadowsky.

I always wipe them down thoroughly with a piece of soft, dry cloth BEFORE INSTALLATION, then after each use. I also wash my hands, especially after eating fried chicken, before picking up my bass.

Based on what I've been reading, I should consider myself lucky I haven't experienced any of this stickiness you're talking about with any of the flats I've used.

 

[JustForSport]

Not everyone's finger prints are the same- some are flatter/smoother than others which results in more surface contact area. Depending on humidity and sweating, etc, lots of variables.
Some people have more texture to their finger prints and will get more 'zing' with rounds as a result.
Some build callouses fast, others, not at all.
If the strings are clean, it's mostly an individual player/environment thing.
If there's gunk and goop and coagulated compounds coating the strings, well...

 

[gary m]

Works for me.View attachment 761950

I use this product as well, with good results. Inexpensive to try.

 

[Linnin]

 

[dukeandrews]

Use them.

Thanks, but that didn't work. The steel wool trick did work, though. Now they feel nice and slick. Thanks everyone.