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How to Spot a Fake Stingray?

One downside to buying used basses is that there is a greater risk of getting ripped-off by a dishonest seller than when buying new.
With this in mind, I have an opportunity to buy a used Stingray. I’ve played Stingrays in the past but I am not intimate with them.

Can someone please tell me:

1. How common are fake Stingrays on the used market?

2. What are things to look for to spot a fake Stingray?


Thanks for your time.
 
I just had a post about this. there was a guy in Montreal, local to me, no shipping, who had what he claimed was a brand new 2011 Stingray. I asked about it here and I was given lots of great info. Here's what I learned about fakes:

No "musicman" on the bridge
No Musicman case (A 2011 would have the case)
Bridge is more round.
and...the no.1 clincher....4 Bolt necks!
Good luck. Hopefully you are buying in person and not having it shipped. If you are having it shipped, get lots of pictures and do not use Paypal's "gift" option.
 
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There are experts on this forum that can spot a fake from a mile away, from any brand. Some of us just plain don't have that experience. What I got in a habit of doing on all used purchases is get the serial number and call the manufacturer. Fender and EBMM are great about this kind of thing. Fender will even email you the spec sheet from that particular year and model.

If the seller isn't willing to disclose the full serial, pass on it. There is no reason why any honest person would not want you to verify the authenticity of the instrument.

For those spur of the moment purchases - I live by the old "too good to be true" test. I may have missed out on some good deals, but I haven't been burnt either.
 
Of course not, but it makes it more difficult to do so, thus more costly and less of an incentive to copy an EBMM. The easiest way to do it would be to get an OLP or one of the Chinese knock offs and swap the decal. But those are easy to spot, at least in person.

I was mainly talking about said Chinese knockoffs...

It doesn't really have much to do with not being able to get a real EBMM neck or bridge when you can copy the design, make a body out of plywood, and slap a neck that has a similar designed headstock onto it. All made by a 9 year old...

I agree they are easy to spot, but OP is looking for info on how to spot them.
 
There are experts on this forum that can spot a fake from a mile away, from any brand. Some of us just plain don't have that experience. What I got in a habit of doing on all used purchases is get the serial number and call the manufacturer. Fender and EBMM are great about this kind of thing. Fender will even email you the spec sheet from that particular year and model.

If the seller isn't willing to disclose the full serial, pass on it. There is no reason why any honest person would not want you to verify the authenticity of the instrument.

For those spur of the moment purchases - I live by the old "too good to be true" test. I may have missed out on some good deals, but I haven't been burnt either.

agree 100% on requesting the serial number.... great practice when checking out private used gear...
 
bassgod0dmw said:
That doesn't stop someone from building one of their own...

But the fakers cannot get the same parts that are used on a real StingRay. Those fauxRays always look so dispropotionate with huge tuners and taiwan bridges and neck shape cuts that look so odd, and way incorrect truss assy.

Just like anything....if it's something you want, you need to know what your looking at.
 
But the fakers cannot get the same parts that are used on a real StingRay. Those fauxRays always look so dispropotionate with huge tuners and taiwan bridges and neck shape cuts that look so odd, and way incorrect truss assy.

Everybody seems to be missing the point that I was trying to make. Of course they are not the same parts used on a real Stingray...they are KNOCKOFFS.

If someone doesn't know anything about Stingrays at all, they may overlook all these things because it says Stingray on the headstock and the seller says it's real.
 
Everybody seems to be missing the point that I was trying to make.
......
If someone doesn't know anything about Stingrays at all, they may overlook all these things because it says Stingray on the headstock and the seller says it's real.

Oh I knew what you were saying. That's why I said you need to know what you are looking at if you're a half serious shopper.
Really, it only takes less than 30 seconds to find and compare a picture or three from the Musicman site to see.

But I honestly can't help to think if someone doesnt know anything about a bass, why are they diving in to blindly buy with out taking one minute of research.
 
If someone doesn't know anything about Stingrays at all, they may overlook all these things because it says Stingray on the headstock and the seller says it's real.

Same with any brand of bass.



If someone doesn't know anything about the brand of bass they're buying, they should take the time to find out before buying, or buy from a place like Guitar Center.
 
There were several web-pages of folks who were "specialists in antiquing" various guitars and Basses. And there IS one point that might be worth mentioning.

Some of these people who put together fakes, shop around for totally blown or destroyed guitars - primarily so they WOULD have the original hardware. In that case and with some level of workmanship, knowledge of paint / finishing, etc - it can be really tough. When you're talking about a sale of potential $10,000-level, the lengths they go to are amazing.

TTBoMK this most often happens with Fenders simply due to numbers of available junked units & collected parts; but it theoretically could happen with most anything. The really unfortunate thing is that (on rare occasion) it starts out as an innocent hobby and from places like older established music stores or pawn shops that would have access to parts. However it could also generate from an Estate sale, a fire liquidation sale, or genuine forgers / thieves who post little adds in publications offering to buy items "no matter their condition" (fakes happen in MANY formats). Then the serial numbers and hardware ARE genuine, & with some skill; it becomes a serious issue.
People will go to great lengths for the type of money that could potentially generate. Even a few thousand dollars for a pre-EBMM would be worth the effort if the guy had all the hardware from a fire sale and was a dishonest but skilled re-finisher.

While Fender may have a code within a serial number that indicates the original finish / color, etc, that's still no guarantee of authenticity. IMO, if I was going to spend money on ANY antique I would also take the time to go to an appraiser (there are musical instrument appraisers that are certified just like furniture antique dealers from Appraisal Associations), who will issue documentation for a low fee. Those people will go to court w/ you if need be.
 

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