• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

How Would Someone Build a "Fenderbird"?

Would someone just get a Thunderbird body, and a P Bass neck and attach them to each other?

Because these really give me GAS, and owning one would be pretty awesome. I was thinking of getting a t-bird off of craigslist, and either a mighty mite neck or a squire classic vibe neck. Would these work out and sound good?

I do know that some people do need to adjust the body because of the size difference of the epiphone neck and the P-bass neck. Would a 15 year old be able to do something like that or should I call a local luthier and pay them to do it?
 
To build a Fenderbird you need the following ...

- You need a thunderbird shaped body. Some start with epiphone or other aftermarket bodies. Gibson doesn't work so well because a Gibson t-bird usually has a set neck.

- You need a p-bass neck. You will have to modify the neck pocket on the t-bird body to make the neck fit.

- You need a stratagy to deal with neck dive.

- You need a pair of pickups. T-bird pickups or soapbar shaped pickups.

- You have to decide what kind of bridge you will use.

Building t-birds is a lot of fun.
 
If you can find an Epiphone T-Bird for cheap and a P bass neck, the biggest problem is making the neck fit on the body. If you've done any woodworking at all, or have a friend or relative who has and can help you, it's not too hard. The body just needs to be routed a little to make the neck fit.
 
Does anyone know of a company that makes aftermarket T-bird bodies besides Warmoth? The Warmoth ones seem to be really oddly proportioned, with the neck pocket sticking way outside the body, which makes for an extra long bass with even more neck dive than a normal T-bird. Any other alternatives?
 
I have seen a couple of these and had the chance to own one, but the guy sold it before I could play it and try it out. At glance these look pretty sick and definitely different. I would love to play one someday and perhaps own one if given another opportunity.
 
Would someone just get a Thunderbird body, and a P Bass neck and attach them to each other?

Because these really give me GAS, and owning one would be pretty awesome. I was thinking of getting a t-bird off of craigslist, and either a mighty mite neck or a squire classic vibe neck. Would these work out and sound good?

I do know that some people do need to adjust the body because of the size difference of the epiphone neck and the P-bass neck. Would a 15 year old be able to do something like that or should I call a local luthier and pay them to do it?

Mine is an Epi body and an MM lefty Jazz neck, I wanted to keep the job easy so I shaved the the sides and end of the neck with a dremel tool gradually till it fit the Epi pocket. One everything fit together well I gave it to Mike Lull to set up and wire.
thunderbirds022.jpg


thunderbirds023.jpg
 
Ok , these are driving me crazy and I don't even play 4 strings that much. Very cool.

Now has anyone created a 5 string version? What's to keep someone from using say a 5 string neck from a G&L or EBMM?
 
Wow! That's my old bird. I did the work and sold it here to Eddie. Good for him for making some good coin on it!

Btw, I'm not a "pro" by any means but I did do the dremeling. It wasn't hard, just go slow.
 
I would go for a Jazz neck. My vintage T-bird has a 1.5" nut too, so a "Fenderbird" would feel wierd to me with a P bass neck.

That's the beauty of Fenderbirds ... They are a frankensteined parts bass. You can build them any way you want. There are only 2 requirements. 1 - A Fender neck. 2 - A Thunderbird body or a body similar to a thunderbird. An explorer body could work as well.
 
How does a Fenderbird conversion deal with intonation? The neck, say a P neck, has been designed and built so that the proportions of the distances between the frets and the length of the neck itself are correct for a particular distance from the bearing-surfaces of the bridge. If the neck is fitted to a different body the distance from the nut to the bridge must be the same as it was with the original body or the bass will play out of tune. Woodwork to get the width and depth of the neck pocket right is necessary of course, but what about this overall scale length? Surely that's what makes the instrument playable or not?