Humm from the amp

[alex-red]

yes, 110 to 220.
this solves the humm...so that I understand is still a grounding issue or is it signal from the main?

 

[meisi]

Wait. Seriously? I was only joking bc of the tt overclock thread.

So you toggled the amp to accept 220 if needed?

 

[alex-red]

yes, I did.
the amp accepts both voltages, I had to replace the fuse according to the manual

 

[agedhorse]

240, bro.

But he’s from Australia and therefore already has 240V. If he operated a 120V version of an amp at 240V, he wouldn’t have hum, he would have a failed amp.

 

[agedhorse]

Wait a minute, this is getting weirder and less clear.

How was the amp originally configured and powered?

Aren’t you in Australia? Don’t you have 240V?

 

[alex-red]

sorry, I am confusing everybody.
I was in australia, now moved to the US. the amp is natively accepting 240, but it accepts also 110.
I changed the fuse when moved here, and no problem, then I moved house....and the Humm came about.
since I have a bunch of transformers around the house...half of my appliances are still accepting 220-240 natively ... I thought what if I change the fuse again and plug it through a transformer hence at 220? ...the humm has gone.

 

[DJ Bebop]

In general, it's safer to fix the whole house...

Grounding issues?
Check with my friend Thomas. He can set you straight. He's a great electrician…

 

[agedhorse]

Did you have the amp set for 240V and we’re operating at 120V by chance when you had the hum?

What amp is this exactly?

 

[alex-red]

its an EBS session60.
I checked that the correct fuse was in when switching. but the noise only appeared when moving house (within the US).

 

[agedhorse]

It was set to 120V in both locations in the US?

If so, it’s likely to be the wiring in the second house.

 

[alex-red]

Yes this was the case.
thanks mate.
at this point I will stick to using it at 240V, but will start looking into the house electrical, as I would like to avoid other issues

 

[meisi]

So, from a dirty power perspective- what are the options for OP?

Sometimes you can’t change the underlying wiring of a building. Aside from OP boosting mains up to 220-240v, which I assume is conditioning thus removing the noise, couldn’t you just get an active power conditioning strip that cleans the power as well?

I imagine a similar result would be had with a variac, for example? What about high end power strip that regulates and stabilizes the mains voltage, only.

 

[agedhorse]

So, from a dirty power perspective- what are the options for OP?

Sometimes you can’t change the underlying wiring of a building. Aside from OP boosting mains up to 220-240v, which I assume is conditioning thus removing the noise, couldn’t you just get an active power conditioning strip that cleans the power as well?

I imagine a similar result would be had with a variac, for example? What about high end power strip that regulates and stabilizes the mains voltage, only.

It depends on the internal architecture and connections within the transformer that he is using. There are different ways of doing this conversion and it may not be the increased voltage that's "solving" the problem but the byproduct of the device that's being used.

Power strips of the "power conditioning" variety are unlikely to solve anything in spite of the marketing used. A variac may or may not solve the problem, there is no galvanic isolation on an auto-transformer and the voltage converter he is using may contain a conventional 2 winding transformer.

Voltage regulating and stabilizing devices may help, certainly if it's a double-conversion PSW type, but if it's a tap commutating auto-transformer type than probably not.

This is why diagnosing the actual cause is important to identifying likely real solutions rather than stop-gap measures.