• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

I NEED more punch/sustain!

#41
How hard do you play? I really think the free option of adjusting your style to a lighter touch will make a bigger difference than any bridge/nut/string anchoring. Working with your compressor to balance the limiting compression, threshold and release can really make a huge difference.

I have a lot of basses, all sorts of bridge/tailpieces and never run out of note... before I run out of song. Songs that ring out at the end, I always find myself having to turn down the volume on my basses rather than letting my note keep going.... I'd be going on many seconds longer than the guitar players.. let alone drum/cymbals. It could be the music style etc needs way longer notes than I run into.. But sustain is one thing I've never been lacking. What kind of songs are you playing where you run out of sustain?

basses.jpg
 
#43
hdracer said:
Did you plug it in with a new Monster "Bass" cable too?

I hear they do wonders for your tone too.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if you were joking with this guy but,your cables/signal path do make a difference in your sound.I have audio/video proof from NAMM show that it does.I took my personal cables to the EBS booth and let guys do a direct A/B with the cable at the booth and the cables I use,Evidence Audio.Guys that used to go by the theory that cables didn't matter were running to Evidence Audio booth after they demoed for themselves.

The other suggestion would be to raise your action slightly because if you tune down,you lose punch immediately.I'm sure you probably knew that.

You don't have to try Evidence but,you'd definitely need better cables,a nice compressor,find the strings that respond to the lower tuning and a better,well-cut nut to get closer to what you're trying to achieve.

Let me know if you'd like to see the video clips.

I misread the user...the part about the cables is for you and the rest is for the OP.
 
#44
MoeGJBeener said:
Bahahahahahah! And the Victor Wooten signature speaker cable.
Click to expand...

your cables/signal path do in fact make a difference...I'm not sure how the Wooten cable sounds but,I have experienced the difference for about 2 years now.

You have to be careful and pick the right product...you can't pick it because of whose name is on it and who endorses what...you have to find the right company that's making a superior product.You'll hear the difference immediately if you know what you're listening for.
 
#45
'Sustain' is a result of the string(s) NOT stopping their oscillation in the magnetic field of the pickups. A few things to help 'sustain':
1- Lower the pups enough so the field doesn't impede the oscillation.
2- Use round core, lower tension (higher gauge) strings- tightness/stiffness stifles the oscillation by trying to bring the strings back to straight.
3- Turn up the amp and stand facing the speakers. The sound waves will keep it sounding 'til you kill the power.
4- + on the compressor to knock off the peaks.
5- A fretted note won't be helped much by the nut.
6- A compliant bridge will bleed the vibration off to the other strings and body (diff density, so will absorb).
7- A REAL bent steel bridge, not compliant (1/4"+ of hard steel) will not absorb vibration like a 'tin' one.
YMMV.
 
#48
bolophonic said:
I am still trying to figure out how long the "sustain" crowd can reasonably expect any bass to hold a fretted note? And +1 to JustForSport's list of variables.
Click to expand...

My Carvin and Ernie Ball basses sustain clearly for a looong time. The Squier affinity jazz vi just sold sustains for the more typical length of a standard jazz bass... more attack, more audible decrescendo after.
 
#49
JustForSport said:
'Sustain' is a result of the string(s) NOT stopping their oscillation in the magnetic field of the pickups. A few things to help 'sustain':
1- Lower the pups enough so the field doesn't impede the oscillation.
2- Use round core, lower tension (higher gauge) strings- tightness/stiffness stifles the oscillation by trying to bring the strings back to straight.
3- Turn up the amp and stand facing the speakers. The sound waves will keep it sounding 'til you kill the power.
4- + on the compressor to knock off the peaks.
5- A fretted note won't be helped much by the nut.
6- A compliant bridge will bleed the vibration off to the other strings and body (diff density, so will absorb).
7- A REAL bent steel bridge, not compliant (1/4"+ of hard steel) will not absorb vibration like a 'tin' one.
YMMV.
Click to expand...

Question:I was wondering if the nut has any bearing on the sustain...not to add more sustain but,wouldn't a poorly seated nut hinder sustain a bit? Or is it more of the fret level? Or neither? haha

Thanks in advance.
 
#50
I have noticed that a lot of my sustain is in my hands and how I'm playing. You might try some different techniques on your fret hand. I get really good sustain when I use a lot of hand strength with my left hand on the fretboard.

Cheers!

MJW
 
#51
jcsgroove said:
Question:I was wondering if the nut has any bearing on the sustain...not to add more sustain but,wouldn't a poorly seated nut hinder sustain a bit? Or is it more of the fret level? Or neither? haha

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

No bearing on fretted notes.

Imho the nut should be no more or less rigid than the frets so the tone sounds the same. I like zero frets for that reason, although you never see them on bass for some reason.

Also most sustain problems come from bad neck attachments or bad wood or clear setup problems. Sometimes from cheap pot metal in a $50 guitar's bridge saddle too.
 
#52
bolophonic said:
I am still trying to figure out how long the "sustain" crowd can reasonably expect any bass to hold a fretted note?
Click to expand...

Mine go for a long time. Without actually timing them, I'd venture a guess at a solid 15 seconds on the normal ones and upwards of 30 seconds on my Modulus Q5 if I get a good pluck and hold the note perfectly.

Pending newish strings and a good setup of course...
 
#55
I had a parts P bass when I was a teen. I took it into the shop and had a BA II put on it and the luthier also put some wire mesh in my neck screw holes to tighten the neck. I put on the obligatory new Rotosounds and that bass sang.... it had sustain for days.. it also had a maple board.
 
#57
lowsideonacurve said:
I have to agree with this since it is clear that the best way to dampen vibration is to add mass and dampening vibration would pretty much kill sustain.
Click to expand...

well, the sustain is the string vibrating between two fixed firm vibration-free points. the longest sustain in the world is a well made grand piano.... which is a single string (round-wound in the lower range) held firm between two fixed solid points. Those points are as firmly and rigidly mounted and built as possible and built into a SOLID THICK METAL frame and a wooden frame built out of solid wood that is something like 2 inches thick.

Just sayin....

anyone who thinks the tone comes from the bridge vibrating is actually incorrect. it comes from the bridge being a solid rigid point that completely prevents vibration.

mass is good here.

but still, a lighter weight bridge firmly rigidly attached to a solid hard body does the same thing, more or less, which is why the fender bridge works at all.
 
#58
jcsgroove said:
I'm not sure if you were joking with this guy but,your cables/signal path do make a difference in your sound.I have audio/video proof from NAMM show that it does.I took my personal cables to the EBS booth and let guys do a direct A/B with the cable at the booth and the cables I use,Evidence Audio.Guys that used to go by the theory that cables didn't matter were running to Evidence Audio booth after they demoed for themselves.

The other suggestion would be to raise your action slightly because if you tune down,you lose punch immediately.I'm sure you probably knew that.

You don't have to try Evidence but,you'd definitely need better cables,a nice compressor,find the strings that respond to the lower tuning and a better,well-cut nut to get closer to what you're trying to achieve.

Let me know if you'd like to see the video clips.

I misread the user...the part about the cables is for you and the rest is for the OP.
Click to expand...

Excellent advice, I personally hate monster cables as they are very colored on the low end and just all around totally change any good inherent characteristics of the bass.
Zaolla cables are my fav.
Compressor yes.
Low action with a heavy hand will reduce sustain as well.
As far as the BAII, all that's gonna do is add weight, you don't need that.

Just my .02
 
#60
And as far as bridges go, love the Wilkinson with the two saddles like the 50's P's had.
They make a fully adjustable one top load.

Very punchy by the way, but it's all a combination of variables.

Gee, now i'm up to .04 with my opinion
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back