Identifying low tension vs. high tension strings

[WayneP]

How does one determine if a set of strings is low tension or high tension before pulling the trigger? Manufacturers don’t seem to identify their strings as low or high tension. Is there a give-away in the technical description that will indicate one way or the other?

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Pedulla Club #45 Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
Pedulla Club #45

 

[Pyrrho Epoche]

How does one determine if a set of strings is low tension or high tension before pulling the trigger? Manufacturers don’t seem to identify their strings as low or high tension. Is there a give-away in the technical description that will indicate one way or the other?

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Pedulla Club #45 Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
Pedulla Club #45

Some specify low tension like Labella LTF's and Everybody knows TI Jazz flats are low tension. Most people know that Roto flats and Labellas are pretty high tension too. Somebody here should/will post a thread link chart probably

 

[Geri O]

How does one determine if a set of strings is low tension or high tension before pulling the trigger? Manufacturers don’t seem to identify their strings as low or high tension. Is there a give-away in the technical description that will indicate one way or the other?

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Pedulla Club #45 Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
Pedulla Club #45

I could be wrong, but I thought that generally, hex-core strings will be higher-tension than round-core strings.

There's more design criteria to bass strings than simply that distinction, so the mileage may vary.

 

[trothwell]

As just a vague sense of what's going on, given otherwise similar construction, lighter sets (e.g., 40-100) will have less tension than heavier sets (e.g., 45-105). Flatwound strings tend to have more tension than a similarly-sized set of roundwound strings (though not always). Tapewound strings tend to have less tension than a similarly-sized set of roundwound strings.

Some manufacturers (e.g., GHS, Rotosound, D'Addario) publish their string tension numbers. Some other manufacturers (e.g., Ernie Ball) will give you tension numbers on request.

It seems to me that, as a rough heuristic, strings of similar construction tend to have similar tension values. This is not true in every situation, but if I don't know for sure otherwise, it seems like a good starting point of a guess.

For example, looking at GHS, Rotosound, and D'Addario numbers, it appears that across the board, a roundwound hex-core 45-65-85-105 set of strings will have a pulling weight of approximately 180 pounds. Some a little less, some a little more, but around there. Unless I had reason to believe otherwise, I would guess that most roundwound hex-core 45-65-85-105 sets have a pulling weight of approximately 180 pounds.

 

[michael_t]

How does one determine if a set of strings is low tension or high tension before pulling the trigger?

As just a vague sense of what's going on, given otherwise similar construction, lighter sets (e.g., 40-100) will have less tension than heavier sets (e.g., 45-105). Flatwound strings tend to have more tension than a similarly-sized set of roundwound strings (though not always). Tapewound strings tend to have less tension than a similarly-sized set of roundwound strings.

Some manufacturers (e.g., GHS, Rotosound, D'Addario) publish their string tension numbers. Some other manufacturers (e.g., Ernie Ball) will give you tension numbers on request.

It seems to me that, as a rough heuristic, strings of similar construction tend to have similar tension values. This is not true in every situation, but if I don't know for sure otherwise, it seems like a good starting point of a guess.

For example, looking at GHS, Rotosound, and D'Addario numbers, it appears that across the board, a roundwound hex-core 45-65-85-105 set of strings will have a pulling weight of approximately 180 pounds. Some a little less, some a little more, but around there. Unless I had reason to believe otherwise, I would guess that most roundwound hex-core 45-65-85-105 sets have a pulling weight of approximately 180 pounds.

If I understand it correctly, the OP is more concerned about the FEEL of the string, as in stiffness/flexibility, rather than the actual pulling weight.

What makes a string stiffer in feel than others while some strings of the same gauges can actually FEEL more flexible? That's the question.

@WayneP, do I understand you correctly? By "tension", you actually mean stiffness/flexibility.

 

[Geri O]

If I understand it correctly, the OP is more concerned about the FEEL of the string, as in stiffness/flexibility, rather than the actual pulling weight.

What makes a string stiffer in feel than others while some strings of the same gauges can actually FEEL more flexible? That's the question.

@WayneP, do I understand you correctly? By "tension", you actually mean stiffness/flexibility.

Yes, it’s in this context of “feel” that I made my comments.

And to add, I’ve sought out and tried both round-core and hex-core strings. I still prefer a more-stiff-feeling string, so I use the D’Addario Pro Steels that are hex-core. As well as playing 50, 70, 85, 105, and 135 gauge strings.

As much as I prefer these strings, I’m 66 and obviously not getting younger. And I still play a lot.

So my interest in this topic is increasing as the days of needing to change to accommodate my aging hands are probably not too far away.

 

[basshawk]

GHS Boomers have a nice pull to them…not too floppy, not to tight. Pretty nice if you like bright tone, IMO.

 

[WayneP]

If I understand it correctly, the OP is more concerned about the FEEL of the string, as in stiffness/flexibility, rather than the actual pulling weight.

@WayneP, do I understand you correctly? By "tension", you actually mean stiffness/flexibility.

Maybe? I’m not sure!

To keep this as brief as possible, last year someone here on TB recommended some LaBella Deep Talking Bass copper white nylon tape wound strings. (I see now they advertise these as low-tension, but that meant nothing to me at the time. I mean, I know light vs. medium, flatwound and roundwound, and that’s about it!)

I quickly found I suddenly had fret-buzzing problems, despite a truss-rod adjustment (I like action on the low side). With a Talkbass search I learned that low-tensions require higher action and / or a lighter touch.

But the other thing I noticed was that they ring like crazy. I’ll be the first to admit my string-dampening technique is not the best, but I’d never had string-ringing problems this bad!

Anyway, I recently acquired a new (to me) bass, and put on a fresh set of strings I had on hand, some SIT Power Wound Nickels (both these and the LaBellas are medium gauge). The SITs are described as having a high carbon steel hex core.

And they ring like crazy!

So – either I need to figure out how to spot these abysmal things when I go to order, or just stick with what I’ve had good luck with in the past. But that sure limits the fun of experimenting to find new sounds, or at least makes it really expensive. Hence, my cry for help!

Hope this helps?

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Pedulla Club #45 Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
Pedulla Club #45

 

[Derek Kay]

We can calculate each string's tension from an online string tension calculator

I used

Guitar Tension Calculator

or search: string tension calculator

 

[GTHintz]

If you're asking about how stiff strings setup vs supple strings then generally you can get strings to setup at a certain height and certain neck relief but always remember that as you change the string tension you're changing where the neck sits as well as the intonation relative to that. And from my experience with trying almost every round wound steel string on the market that some strings just set up easier on certain basses. If I want the least amount of adjustment I'll look at getting the same gauge or close to it and similar tension. To me gauge changes the feel and perceived tension more than anything. It also changes the brightness and amount of zing depending on how thick you go. Strings are like a science and getting the most out of them is an art.

 

[hasbeen]

We can calculate each string's tension from an online string tension calculator

I used

Guitar Tension Calculator

or search: string tension calculator

that calculator doesn't take mass into account

 

[SJan3]

How does one determine if a set of strings is low tension or high tension before pulling the trigger? Manufacturers don’t seem to identify their strings as low or high tension. Is there a give-away in the technical description that will indicate one way or the other?

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Pedulla Club #45 Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
Pedulla Club #45

Round core strings like DR SUNBEAMS have less tension than hex core strings.

 

[ajkula66]

Maybe? I’m not sure!

To keep this as brief as possible, last year someone here on TB recommended some LaBella Deep Talking Bass copper white nylon tape wound strings. (I see now they advertise these as low-tension, but that meant nothing to me at the time. I mean, I know light vs. medium, flatwound and roundwound, and that’s about it!)

I quickly found I suddenly had fret-buzzing problems, despite a truss-rod adjustment (I like action on the low side). With a Talkbass search I learned that low-tensions require higher action and / or a lighter touch.

But the other thing I noticed was that they ring like crazy. I’ll be the first to admit my string-dampening technique is not the best, but I’d never had string-ringing problems this bad!

Anyway, I recently acquired a new (to me) bass, and put on a fresh set of strings I had on hand, some SIT Power Wound Nickels (both these and the LaBellas are medium gauge). The SITs are described as having a high carbon steel hex core.

And they ring like crazy!

My experience has been that in order to get no fret buzz when using light tension strings one needs the frets to be in perfect condition AND play with a light touch. Higher action was never a part of the equation on my basses, as it would be deemed utterly unacceptable.

 

[hasbeen]

Round core strings like DR SUNBEAMS have less tension than hex core strings.

not necessarily. Everything being equal (mass, scale length, pitch) they are more flexible. If round core strings have the same mass as hex core, over the same scale length, they'll have the same tension.

 

[Pyrrho Epoche]

Maybe? I’m not sure!

To keep this as brief as possible, last year someone here on TB recommended some LaBella Deep Talking Bass copper white nylon tape wound strings. (I see now they advertise these as low-tension, but that meant nothing to me at the time. I mean, I know light vs. medium, flatwound and roundwound, and that’s about it!)

I quickly found I suddenly had fret-buzzing problems, despite a truss-rod adjustment (I like action on the low side). With a Talkbass search I learned that low-tensions require higher action and / or a lighter touch.

But the other thing I noticed was that they ring like crazy. I’ll be the first to admit my string-dampening technique is not the best, but I’d never had string-ringing problems this bad!

Anyway, I recently acquired a new (to me) bass, and put on a fresh set of strings I had on hand, some SIT Power Wound Nickels (both these and the LaBellas are medium gauge). The SITs are described as having a high carbon steel hex core.

And they ring like crazy!

So – either I need to figure out how to spot these abysmal things when I go to order, or just stick with what I’ve had good luck with in the past. But that sure limits the fun of experimenting to find new sounds, or at least makes it really expensive. Hence, my cry for help!

Hope this helps?

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Pedulla Club #45 Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
Pedulla Club #45

Like another guy said recently, I also find I play different styles of music, depending how my strings mutate after and before they lose their ring. I like the ringing and brightness, so I change them more often. I would say, If you are not a fan of bright strings from the get go, maybe try something flat, or a string that is more mid and low, like Fat Beams(round core) I think are. Those SIT's are going to be warm, but still bright, until you wear them in. I dunno, just thinking out loud.

 

[Karl Kaminski]

@WayneP
its all relative. In general... theres "core, material, and construction"

• Hex core is stiffer than Round core.
• Heavy gauge is stiffer than Lights/Ultra Lights.
• Rounds are brighter than Flats.
• StainlessSteel is brighter than Nickel
• Rounds have a longer decay than Flats or Tapes. (ie sustain)
• Both Rounds and Lights oscillate more than Hex and Heavy—easier to excite (hence the higher action or lighter touch)

...so heavy gauge hex cores are going to feel stiffer/stronger/heavier than a round core lights. And there is a wide variety of choices in-between. Application to a specific instrument, setup, pickup, player's style will all determine which way to go. But there are no rules other than if you like the sound and feel.


IMO, best place to start is decide what your expectations are, choose a few sets that fit that and start trying sets. It can be very enlightening once you start comparing sets on the same instrument. —Keeping in mind EVERY set of strings will need a setup. You cannot expect a different type of string to react and play the same. So having basic setup skills are a prerequisite to any "string deep dive". (its an easy process with tons of great YT tuts—Evan Gluck has a great one BTW.)

and for all the fun that is the 'String Rabbit Hole'... its a process. Your taste/style might even change over time