If you build it thay will come

[wraub]

MrArose,
by hard sell I meant that my initial reaction to the design was one more of interest than affection, but that has definitely swung around to the affection camp. Really digging it, and your work on it.

wraub

 

[MrArose13]

Wraub,

Thank you, I really appreciate you elaborating further. Feed back (good or bad) on my builds is very important to me. I find it insightful. Glad to have you in the affection camp.


Pj, lbridenstine, and other interested parties;

I did some test on this magnet phenomenon and will do some more tomorrow and tell you all about it (with pics). I don’t know what happened but I did get it to work so I don’t want to spend too much time on it, but a little more for curiosity sack seems appropriate.

Talk to you later, happy building

 

[suraj]

On the magnet topic, what I would do is to use countersunk screws instead of magnets on the cavity ledge, and use magnets on the cavity cover. Plus sides -

- magnet orientation won't matter
- you can further sink the screws for lesser pull or get them closer to the surface for better pull.
- With screws its not permanent. Once you sink and glue magnets in the cavity ledge, they're not gonna be so easy to remove. Screws could just be removed for whatever reason.

 

[MrArose13]

suraj

On the magnet topic, what I would do is to use countersunk screws instead of magnets on the cavity ledge, and use magnets on the cavity cover. Plus sides -

- magnet orientation won't matter
- you can further sink the screws for lesser pull or get them closer to the surface for better pull.
- With screws its not permanent. Once you sink and glue magnets in the cavity ledge, they're not gonna be so easy to remove. Screws could just be removed for whatever reason.

Suraj – I agree on all points, it’s much less of a headache and takes less time. In the past I’ve used brass inserts and set screws. I like this method and it looks nice, but the inserts take up to much space. What screws would you recommend? I’m toying with the idea of trying it with set screws only. I had not done a magnet to magnet application and thought I’d try it out. This leads me to…

I think I know what is happening. Right off I’ll say, I believe it involves a measurement error on my part. So here it is… I have a ¼” ledge in my cavity and installed ¼” magnets, which left one edge exposed on all the magnets in the cavity. On the cover I installed 5/16” magnets. (the idea was to keep the magnet off the edge of the cover and off set them from the cavity magnets just a bit to create a constant pull. To compensate for the offset, I used the bigger magnet with more magnetic attraction) Well, my measurements were off. So instead of getting two magnets, one half way on top of the other. I got two magnets side by side.In this case the typical set up made the cover float because the pull was coming from the side..



Or at least that’s what I came up with for an explanation. All in all, it works and works well. Maybe I’ll try this again, I don’t know.

That’s it for now, till next time… happy building

 

[suraj]

Suraj – I agree on all points, it’s much less of a headache and takes less time. In the past I’ve used brass inserts and set screws. I like this method and it looks nice, but the inserts take up to much space. What screws would you recommend? I’m toying with the idea of trying it with set screws only. I had not done a magnet to magnet application and thought I’d try it out.

I was talking about countersunk flat-head steel wood screws. They would pretty much take the same amount of space on the ledge I believe. If your using 1/4" magnets on the ledge, i'm sure you can find a steel wood screw with a ~1/4" head diameter. Like this -

I got the idea from post #7 of this thread - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/neodymium-magnets-692713/

 

[pilotjones]

I used magnet to magnet, equal size. Three of the magnets are directly facing, and two have maybe a 2mm offset - less than half a diameter - to provide a constant side force, since my cover slides in from the side.

The cool thing is that as you slide the cover in, as it approaches final position, it leaps into place!

 

[lbridenstine]

MrArose13 and pilotjones,
Did either of you guys make a dip in the cover or anything to give your finger/thumb a grip while removing the cover? Just curious. I didn't and I'm thinking I probably should next time, because right now I have to kind of stick my fingernails between the bass and cover to be able to slide it off.

This is what gave me the idea, and I was originally going to do a slot and groove type thing like this, but ended up with a dovetail bit instead, but anyways, on the right side, there's a little thumb ledge thing that makes it easier to slide the cover off.

Invalid Link Removed

 

[pilotjones]

No need for a thumb relief on mine, as the edge is overhanging, which presents a grab-able ledge.

 

[lbridenstine]

No need for a thumb relief on mine, as the edge is overhanging, which presents a grab-able ledge.

Oh, I just looked at the pictures again and see what you mean. That's a good idea. Mine is flush with the body, so it's a little harder. Not too bad, but I still think it'd be helpful next time, maybe on the ledge above it instead of actually in the cover.

 

[MrArose13]

I used magnet to magnet, equal size. Three of the magnets are directly facing, and two have maybe a 2mm offset - less than half a diameter - to provide a constant side force, since my cover slides in from the side.

The cool thing is that as you slide the cover in, as it approaches final position, it leaps into place!

Pj - That’s what I was going for but was so focused on magnetic attraction, I inaccurately measured (that’s what I’m going with any way, Ha-ha )

 

[MrArose13]

lbridenstine
MrArose13 and pilotjones,
Did either of you guys make a dip in the cover or anything to give your finger/thumb a grip while removing the cover?

lbridenstine - Yes, I use a finger grove. I take a little off the cover and a little off the cavity wall; I think it looks more streamlined that way. I tried to take a pic (with my sad photography skills ) on my personal bass, but you couldn’t see it (as in, it is hardly notice able on top of bad photo skills). I’ll be sure to point it out when I get there on my current build.

 

[lbridenstine]

lbridenstine - Yes, I use a finger grove. I take a little off the cover and a little off the cavity wall; I think it looks more streamlined that way. I tried to take a pic (with my sad photography skills ) on my personal bass, but you couldn’t see it (as in, it is hardly notice able on top of bad photo skills). I’ll be sure to point it out when I get there on my current build.

Cool, I'd like to see how you did it. What kind of tool do you use to make it?

 

[MrArose13]

Thanks for the info Suraj, I hadn’t seen that thread before. I found it informative.

I got some progress from yesterday I’ll post late tonight (latish my time anyway)

Talk to you soon… Happy building… you know I had to say it .

 

[MrArose13]

lbridenstine
Cool, I'd like to see how you did it. What kind of tool do you use to make it?

Nothing fancy, just a dowel wrapped with sand paper.

 

[lbridenstine]

Nothing fancy, just a dowel wrapped with sand paper.

Gotcha, that's a good idea.

Actually, I might have to try that on my cavity edge, I already have oil on the cover, but not the bass itself yet...

 

[MrArose13]

So, one pic shows it all pretty much,



The inlay has been epoxied in and sanded flush to 220. The pickup covers have their first coat of linseed oil on them, the knobs have gone through the stages up to the first coat of wipe on poly. No linseed for the truss rod cover, one out of two coats of tung oil on it now and at least three coats of wipe on poly will follow that.

The knobs look nice but, (as said before) I’m not totally satisfied. So tell me what you think of these?



The bottom is purplehart, maple, purplehart, and caped with matching sapele. The purplehart is burned a bit from the plug cutter (but it will sand out) and I’m running out of sapele from the same billet so I might get one more set of solid sapele. I wasn’t planning on putting the indicator strip on the purple ones.

That’s it that was a whole day of work. It goes so quick in print. Anyway, more tomorrow.

Till then… happy building

 

[MrArose13]

Hello to all:

Outside of sanding, sanding, sanding and more sanding, I have also been working on adding my layers of oil to all the small parts. The purplehart knobs are now waiting for oil as well. I think these came out nice, so I will be using them on this bass. I’m still planning on having this one done by the end of the month, but I suppose, we shall see.

 

[MrArose13]

Here are a few pics of the finger groove on the cavity/cavity cover

 

[curbowkid]

Beautiful!

Quick question, how do you keep your purple heart from splintering? I had that problem a little on my build and I can't seem to figure it out. I did everything according to grain to I wasn't catching any grain ends. I don't understand it. Fresh bits and all

 

[MrArose13]

When I do my finger groove, I wrap sandpaper around a ½” dowel and take a little off the cavity wall (somewhere between 45° and 90° _\| ) and undercut (or in this case sand) the cover in a similar fashion attentively not to put a dip in the cover out line. I feel this method gives a low profile to the finger groove while serving its function.

Sooo… it’s back to sanding, till next time, happy building