Input jack, jacked?

[Downunderwonder]

Active bass, cutting in and out when the lead plug gets wiggled. It's not the lead.

I opened the control cavity and the 3 way jack seems all well connected and getting a good grip on the plug, yet the plug is easy enough to micro wriggle as most jacks do, while appearing not to lose contact. What's really happening?

 

[Crater]

If it's a 'barrel style' output jack...

...then it's worn out. No way to repair it, just have it replaced.

 

[Slevage]

The 2 poles short together internally.

Replace the jack.

 

[pfox14]

Have you tried different cords? Maybe it's not the jack at all.

 

[Slevage]

I think

 

[Groovin61]

Just had the same exact thing happen on an active P I have from the late 80's. Couldn't figure it out. Took it to a tech who replaced the jack and all is well.

 

[nashvillebill]

F#maj7 = chord

Wire that transmits signal = cord

 

[ahc]

And... It's an OUTPUT jack.

 

[Slevage]

F#maj7 = chord

Wire that transmits signal = cord

Spellin was my worstest subject in skool.

I'm much better at cypherin-- be-in an injuneer.

 

[Downunderwonder]

The 2 poles short together internally.

Replace the jack.

It's TRS, for activating the power on the electronics. Can you expand on how it can short?

Come to think of it, the cutting out is sometimes accompanied by gank noise like a short, but then it's silent, would it not hum if it was shorted?

 

[Downunderwonder]

Thanks for other replies, well, some of them.

Yes, I swapped leads first.

 

[Downunderwonder]

If it's a 'barrel style' output jack...

...then it's worn out. No way to repair it, just have it replaced.

Not that kind, it's just a simple faceplate mounting one.

 

[pfox14]

F#maj7 = chord

Wire that transmits signal = cord

LMAO - good way to start a day

 

[Crater]

Not that kind, it's just a simple faceplate mounting one.

In that case, you might be able to clean it. You can use some fine grit sandpaper or even a pencil eraser. Gently clean the jack's contacts where they contact the plug. Roll the sandpaper into a small cylinder to clean the inside (ground/earth) portion of jack. Also check that the tip contact is making firm contact with the plug; if it isn't, you can try bending the contact in a bit to increase the pressure.

If all that fails, it's a straightforward job to replace the jack.

 

[Downunderwonder]

In that case, you might be able to clean it. You can use some fine grit sandpaper or even a pencil eraser. Gently clean the jack's contacts where they contact the plug. Roll the sandpaper into a small cylinder to clean the inside (ground/earth) portion of jack. Also check that the tip contact is making firm contact with the plug; if it isn't, you can try bending the contact in a bit to increase the pressure.

If all that fails, it's a straightforward job to replace the jack.

So, opposite of shorting? I'm still struggling with identifying the mode of failure.

The way it's dead silent after it goes out is a bit spooky. I originally thought it was a dead battery.

 

[JTE]

The T/R/S jack for active electronics works as a switch when you plug in a standard mono (T/S) plug. The tip of the plug connects to the tip connector of the jack, sending the signal to the amp. The barrel of the plug shorts the ring connector of the jack to the sleeve connector, which is ground. That's the switch that turns the battery on and off.

So, if the jack ins't making good electrical connections at either the tip or the ring, it's either not going to send signal to the amp, or it will shut off the battery. Either way, you're likely to get no signal.

BTW, the difference between calling the jack on your bass an "input" or and "output" is important for more than simply semantics. Understanding signal flow is critical to troubleshooting. So, knowing that the signal comes OUT of the bass and goes to the input helps you figure out what could be going wrong. Connections always need to be from an output to an input.

John

 

[Slevage]

It's TRS, for activating the power on the electronics. Can you expand on how it can short?

Come to think of it, the cutting out is sometimes accompanied by gank noise like a short, but then it's silent, would it not hum if it was shorted?

Internal failure could yield a short-- tip to ground.
The input to the amp would then be shorted---
that's how one of my old cords worked. You could unplug it from your instrument to switch axes without turning down you amplifier. A little button popped out when unplugged.
Try it--- plug in your lead to the amp and short the tip to the sleeve--- you should get silence.

 

[PilbaraBass]

if it's a simple faceplate mounted one, then you can access the contact pads and push them towards the centerline a bit... that will ensure better contact...

barring that, replace the jack

 

[halfjackson]

if it's a simple faceplate mounted one, then you can access the contact pads and push them towards the centerline a bit... that will ensure better contact...

barring that, replace the jack

+1

I just replaced a 20 year old barrel jack last week. It cost about $10, and was very easy to replace.

 

[Downunderwonder]

It looks like all the contacts are well made. The prongs both get a significant stretch out when the plug goes in. I'll give them a little rough up and push them in some more to eliminate bad contact.

Shorting tip to barrel on a guitar lead generally is to be avoided like the plague. That's the godawful pop you get pulling a lead out of an active channel, no way I'm doing that deliberately.

The sound is either silent or a minor glitch when it goes out.

Is it possible for the barrel to lose contact without corrosion? I haven't considered that at all.