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Inside The Secret Underground Laboratory

I am thinking of getting the LEDs for my under counter kitchen fixtures. I want to get a more yellow light to soften things since I don´t need the "operation room white" brightness I like in my workshop.
When I checked them out on Amazon (using Bruce's link) there was a couple different color options. :thumbsup:
Yeah man, the bright white ones are a LOT in the kitchen. :roflmao: But I had two left over so I went "why not?" and stuck 'em in there.
 
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I am thinking of getting the LEDs for my under counter kitchen fixtures. I want to get a more yellow light to soften things since I don´t need the "operation room white" brightness I like in my workshop.

Yes, LED lamps generally are available in three different Color Temperatures: 4000K (yellowish, more like sunlight), 5000K (mild white) and 6000K (very white). I chose the 5000K lamps for my shop, and I like that color best for a general workshop. You might prefer 4000K in a woodworking shop for more of a sunlight feel. Or you might like 6000K in a laboratory environment where you are doing precise work with small parts. 5000K is a happy medium.

That's the color, not the brightness. Look at the watts rating to see how bright they are. My Barrinas are 20W each, and their light output is about equal to a twin tube 4' T8 fluorescent lamp, which draws 64W. 20W seems to be the standard rating for 4' single strip LED strip lamps. But there are some which are higher or lower wattage.

Also, most LED lamps are dimmable. You can plug them into an electronic dimmer switch and vary them from zero to full.

Make sure you get the LED lamps with the plastic diffusers. The ones where you can see the little rectangular LED units are painfully bright to look at.
 
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I am thinking of getting the LEDs for my under counter kitchen fixtures. I want to get a more yellow light to soften things since I don´t need the "operation room white" brightness I like in my workshop.
we just replaced our under cabinet lights. you wave your hand to turn them on and off, or you can set a timer to go off after a short or longer time (1 and 5) they are rechargeable, so no wiring required. they attach by magnets so no drilling. and thry are dimmable, and remember the brightness from the last time they were on. Now, if I could only train them the make coffee…
 
I had a moment of weakness. My longtime addiction to acquiring antique machinery has been under control for the last few years. But I occasionally get overpowered.

A week ago, this little antique drill press appeared on the local CraigsList for $125. I told myself, with great courage, No! No! I Do Not Need Another Antique Drill Press Project! I have plenty of them. No! That was last week. Yesterday, he lowered the price to $60. That was it for my willpower. It was obviously going to go to the scrapyard if I didn't buy it. How could I possibly refuse its call to be rescued? And the seller even delivered it here to the Lab.

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It's a Canedy-Otto Model 28 9" Bench Drill from about 1920. About 100 years old. Most of my other similar benchtop "camelback" drill presses are Buffalo Forge or Royersford brands. Canedy-Otto is a lesser-known machine tool company that was in business from 1899 to 1942. This is a rare machine. Only three other examples are shown in the VintageMachinery forum. It's the only Canedy-Otto in my collection.

It's in pretty good shape overall. Some dirt and surface rust, but the shafts turn roughly. No major missing or broken parts. The V-belt pulleys are obviously not original. It had two-step flat pulleys and a 1" leather flat belt. Also missing is a swinging idler pulley that acted as the clutch. It was made to be powered by a flat belt from a lineshaft on the ceiling.

It doesn't need too much work to restore it and make it operational again. Definitely worth saving. But, it's going to have to take a comfortable spot over in Dinosaur Row, in the line with all my other antique machines, waiting for me to restore them. I have at least 11 antique drill presses in there, as well as several mills, lathes, and other machines. All waiting for my attention. But at least they are safe from the scrapyard.
 
Nice score from a bygone era.

We used to have a local restaurant that was housed in a former machine shop. They kept the original beamed ceilings and the two long jack shafts running the length of the building for powering the machinery from long leather belts from the overhead shafts. A few photos hung on the walls served as a great way to explain the workings to our kids, who were fascinated by the involved mechanics.
 
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If you hadn't seen it before, here are some shots of my antique drill press collection in Dinosaur Row. The new Canedy-Otto will be joining them shortly.

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These drill presses are all from 1910-1940. The three smaller benchtop ones in the front are Buffalo Forge 10" models. I plan to restore them and mount the three of them on one old wooden bench. Down on the floor are two more Buffalo Juniors.

In the back are three big 20" drills, two Buffalos and one 1920's Royersford 20". The big green one is a 1930's Buffalo, and it's basically in full running condition. All it needs is a motor wired in and a big belt. Sometime soon I plan to move it out into my main wood shop and put it to work as my main big woodworking drill. Just the machine for big Forstner bits and heavy drilling!
 
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I’ve seen some videos of the leather belts driving old sawmill machinery, cool as hell… and really dangerous. No OSHA around in those days. I imagine those big belts could remove a limb quite handily. Would restoration involve adding an electric motor?
there’s an old brush factory in chester ct that’s been a restaurant for the past 50 years. there is a damn and water fall with a culvert that used to power all the belt-driven machinery. they left all the hardware and leather belts in the ceiling. it’s really amazing!
 
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