Installing threaded saddles

[Batmensch]

I should be getting a set of Fender threaded saddles in the mail tomorrow, and I was wondering if any of you might have suggestions or tips I should keep in mind when installing them on my Squier VM Jazz.

 

[testing1two]

Just a few basic pointers:

• Use the threads to your advantage and line up the strings so they fit between the pickup pole pieces.
• Make sure the height adjustment screws are set to the same height so the saddle is not slanted.
• If the height adjustment screws stick up to the point where your hand touches them routinely while you play, put a little clear nail polish or Loc-tite on them to keep them from moving.

 

[Batmensch]

Just a few basic pointers:

• Use the threads to your advantage and line up the strings so they fit between the pickup pole pieces.
  This is the primary reason I wanted to get the saddles
• Make sure the height adjustment screws are set to the same height so the saddle is not slanted.
  I was wondering about this aspect, thanks
• If the height adjustment screws stick up to the point where your hand touches them routinely while you play, put a little clear nail polish or Loc-tite on them to keep them from moving.
  Good tip, but I generally play typical finger style with my hand hovering over the neck pickup on a Jazz, so I probably don't need to worry about that. Good thing to keep in mind, though

Thanks again, good tips all. Anybody else have anything? What's best do you think, change them out for the old ones one at a time, or all of them at once? I was thinking if I did them one at a time, I could compare them to the old ones to get both the height and length approximated so I would have a minimum of tweaking to do in my final adjustments of height and intonation.

 

[testing1two]

Thanks again, good tips all. Anybody else have anything? What's best do you think, change them out for the old ones one at a time, or all of them at once? I was thinking if I did them one at a time, I could compare them to the old ones to get both the height and length approximated so I would have a minimum of tweaking to do in my final adjustments of height and intonation.

The most accurate (and the easiest) way to change them out is to take measurements with a machinist's rule (a 6" scale that measures 32ths and 64ths of an inch). Measure the action for each string at the 12th fret and for intonation, measure the distance between the back of the bridge plate and the edge of each saddle.

 

[Pilgrim]

Since the diameter of the old and new saddles should be similar, I'd install the new saddles with the set screws in the new saddles adjusted as close as possible to the settings of the screws in the old saddles.

 

[96tbird]

Actually the threaded saddles are smaller diameter 1/4"?. So they will sit higher from the plate so make sure to measure from the top of the VM saddles to the plate. I would go ahead and do them one at a time. You likely won't need to take the strings right off either: just get them nice and loose. That is if you are keeping them. Really though Cliff, this is a pretty easy mod and well worth it. Those outer two saddles should have lots of inward tension from the break angles of the strings once they are aligned with the poles. It'll all lock nicely together for a stable, rattle free result.

 

[Batmensch]

Thanks t. I will keep all that in mind. Primarily this is just an aesthetic mod, to line up the strings with the pole pieces, but I do understand the benefits of stability that the saddles will bring. Sort of a win-win situation for me.
One last question for y'all. I will be adjusting the truss rod (neck has a touch too much relief for my taste), do you think it better to do that before or after I install the saddles, or does it not really matter?

 

[202dy]

Swap parts before making adjustments.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Once swapped out, start with the threaded saddles somewhat behind the location of the originals. Advance forward as you tweak intonation & string height. Don't forget to set your witness points.

Riis

 

[Batmensch]

Thanks everybody for your input, will keep all of your advice in mind when doing the swap.

 

[Batmensch]

UPDATE: Installed the saddles, everything went OK, except ...
The intonation screws that came with the Fender threaded saddles were too big for the holes in the Squier bridge. Fearing that I might have to drill them out (not a big deal, but I'd rather not bother), on a whim I tried the Squier intonation screws on the Fender saddles and they fit!. They were slightly loose, but not enough(as far as I could tell) that they would fall out, and they seem to be holding quite fine under tension. Does anyone think this might be a problem somewhere down the line? They seem fine now, but who knows what the stress over time might do.
I'm thinking I'll leave it like this for now, if I run into any problems down the road, I still have the Fender screws, I'll bite the bullet and drill out the holes in the bridge and use the Fender screws. Any opinions on whether that's a good idea or not?

 

[Zooberwerx]

I don't think you'll have a problem....well, for now anyway. How much of a size difference betweenst the screws? If we're talking only a cat whisker, a few passes of a tapered round xacto file might do the trick. Could probably pull it off with the bridge plate in place.

Riis

 

[96tbird]

We're talking the difference between metric and imperial sizes. They may work but its just not right: increased risk of stripping them out. I suggest you go ahead and drill the plate. The new size will be so close, the operation will be over in moments.

 

[gregmon79]

Good thread, and great timing I JUST replaced my BAII bridge on my modded Squire P with a vintage threaded Fender bridge yesterday. Its funny how tastes change over time. I used to hate the way the bridges looked on Fenders and Squires so I replaced my stock bridge on the P, which wasnt very good to begin with IMO, and put the BA!! bridge on it. I like the BAII too, but as stated, the aesthetic of the old/regular bridge looks pretty cool. Even better threaded. I switched mine out with good results. It was pretty simple to intonate and such. I am trying something different with this now though, I am stringing her BEAD. Boy, talk about a difference it makes as far as action and saddle adjustment! It makes perfect sense though considering whats changing on the bridge when I put those gauge strings on it. Any more suggestions for this type of stringing on this sort of bridge??

 

[gregmon79]

One other thing, I thought I'd mention that I could'nt use/go back to the screws that came with the vintage bridge. I had to use the screws for the BAII again because the screws for the BAII were quite bigger than the ones that came with the vintage. But they fit great and all is well with that.

 

[landau roof]

I've seen folks recommend swapping the saddles, but this is why I'd have just gone for the complete bridge For A Few Dollars More. Would have been easier to match the positions of the old saddles if you had them side-by-side, and it's probable that the nickel plating on the Fender part is of higher quality than that of the Squier for longevity's sake.

Sell the old part and get your Fistfull of Dollars back or keep it for a future project.

 

[walterw]

We're talking the difference between metric and imperial sizes. They may work but its just not right: increased risk of stripping them out. I suggest you go ahead and drill the plate. The new size will be so close, the operation will be over in moments.

+1

jamming metric screws into non-metric saddles is a good way to mess up both.

 

[P Town]

If you have mismatched threads, it is 100% wrong, and will fail.