Oh, I'm already covered on P's--I have three!Grab a G&L LB-100 if you want the P sound.
Great basses.
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Oh, I'm already covered on P's--I have three!Grab a G&L LB-100 if you want the P sound.
Great basses.
My curiosity about the Kiloton fiver is "what if" it's a little different than a PV, L1000 or a MM? I'm a Pbass guy, I have several, they're my main players. I've owned a PV--bought one of the American Fenders the first year they came out -- and also had several L2500s. I was wondering if the Kiloton pickup is in some kinda special spot that could be like a "slightly tighter sounding, more bridge pickup-y P fiver", but not not as "pointed" as a MM.eta- I'm not sure if you said what your tone goal is if it's not just a P5. Is there an aesthetic concern? You just want it to look like it's from far later than 1962?
Thank you. I don't own any Ray-ish bass currently so it might be really cool for me to have. My impression is that it's a little less "pointed" sounding than a Ray, in that the pickup is a little more forward (towards the neck). Is that accurate in your opinion?
I used one like that in a 3-piece rock/pop band, playing through a 130 watt Fender Bassman with a Bassman 4-12 cab. Loved the way it fit in the mix, even more than my L-1000 which was a bit more anonymous sounding.I never like Kiloton sound alone , but tone becomes nice after through Tech 21 VT pedal.
That's how I was at times with my L2500s.
Thanks for all the replies. The fact that the pickup is even closer to the bridge than on a 'Ray makes me way less interested!
Hey, while we're on this topic, can someone explain (for the 1000th time in kiloton related threads) what happens to the pickup signal when in series?
I'm talking about the treble roll-off (I think). Is that an external cap, or limiter, or something? Or is that just what happens when a humbucker goes in series?
So on a kiloton the sound change in series is just because it's in series - the selector switch doesn't activate anything else?Best writeup I have found on it: Guitar Wiring: Series vs. Parallel Explained
Correct. Some G&L's have OMG mode. Which is Series mode with a capacitor on one of the two coils to bleed off some additional treble. Kilo does not have a cap on the series/parallel/single switch (though one could be added).So on a kiloton the sound change in series is just because it's in series - the selector switch doesn't activate anything else?
It sounds like you're asking if the Kiloton has Bass Boost mode, like the L-1000. It does not. It's series, like the L series since '98 or '99. But it adds single coil mode to the usual series/parallel switch (an L-1000 also has a three way switch with single coil mode).Hey, while we're on this topic, can someone explain (for the 1000th time in kiloton related threads) what happens to the pickup signal when in series?
I'm talking about the treble roll-off (I think). Is that an external cap, or limiter, or something? Or is that just what happens when a humbucker goes in series.
Interesting, I always thought a bass cut control would be superfluous on a Kiloton given the pickup position.
The lack of boominess compared to my L1k is one of the things I like the most about it.
I do use the bass cut on the L1k, but still prefer the sound of the bridge position pickup on the K.
+1. Volume knobs are great with G&L MFDs in series. Seems like most bass players run volume full on all the time. MFDs are often better at less than full.I really dig thr Kiloton in series mode with volume at about 85%. Sounds huge but still cuts through without muddiness.
+1. Volume knobs are great with G&L MFDs in series. Seems like most bass players run volume full on all the time. MFDs are often better at less than full.