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Is creating a frankenbass worth it?

It's pretty easy to put together a Fender-style bass yourself. The parts usually fit if you plan it a little bit. Leo Fender industrialized and standardized the production of instruments so that every part can be exchanged with another similar one. An AllParts neck will likely fit an MIM body perfectly. The wiring might be the hardest part, and even then you can get solderless harnesses made so you just put some wires in a hole and screw them down.

Here's a guy to contact for custom harnesses : kellingsound88 on eBay

He can get you one with a prewired jack, and solderless components, but he also customizes your wiring scheme however you want. He's pretty reasonable price-wise.


For the rest you just need a screwdriver, a ratchet set, and (possibly) a drill. You don't need the drill usually if you make sure to buy pre-drilled parts. AllParts should be drilling the neck just fine for MIM bodies, but sometimes the neck drill holes won't line up properly with the holes in the body if you use cheaper necks or cheaper bodies (as in Squiers or other budget ones). If you do have to drill neck holes, you need a wood workers clamp of some sort to clamp the neck down in the pocket, then you drill a shallow hole through the body holes, using them as a reference.

I've snipped some parts of your post and highlighted the parts I'd like to respond to.

While I was searching for a pre-wired harness for "Projekt Blue" pictured on Page 2, I came across an amazing creation by the fine folks at Link Removed. Not only is it a fully-built, solderless harness (three pots + output jack), but it has two features that make the price-tag totally worth it.

First, it has a push-pull pot, allowing me to switch between series and parallel modes.

Second, there's a microchip with a set of dip-pin switches which lets me alter the capacitance. So basically, I don't have to solder one, single cap down and hope it's the sound I want. Once everything was installed and plugged-in, I left the control plate unscrewed. After a bit of experimenting, I found the capacitance I liked best, screwed the plate down…and violá! Now I have a tremendous sonic palette that takes great advantage of the pickup-combination I chose.

Link Removed

EDIT: Duh! :facepalm: In my haste, I forgot to address the second part of your post, specifically regarding working with certain Squier parts. Also, I was going to bring this up eventually, since it comes from some very frustrating attempts to mod said Squiers.

First off, I'm going to go out of my way to avoid the word "cheap" as it is slung around the forum too often as an indirect, or not-so-indirect, slam. I'm not saying that was your intent. It's just become a dirty word leveled at some people's treasured gear, much like the term "not real" discussed earlier.

In my experience, certain Squiers are more frustrating than others when it comes to modding or harvesting their parts for build-projects…specifically, the discontinued Squier Standard Series. I've tried doing both with these and it's a nagging source of frustration. It would seem, over the years and possibly by design, their parts deviated from the standardized design specs (their "footprint", if you will). So, if someone buys a Squier Standard with the intent of modding or grabbing parts from, you might be in for more work than you bargained for. I've written extensively about it on Squier "Perfect Replacement Parts" Megathread, both here and here, as well as on other threads.

On the other hand, from many accounts here on TB, the VM and CV lines are much more compatible with most, standardized Fender parts.

EMG? Solderless installation, I can solder, but I just did the pups in my Jag last weekend, it was so easy it almost seemed like cheating...almost!

Although I can solder, I wouldn't hesitate to get another set of EMGs (the passives though, I can't abide actives ATM.)

I haven't yet experimented with EMG's. Call it artsy-fartsy-shallow, but I prefer to see the pole pieces and their selection of visible-pole-pickups is a bit thin. On the other hand, I've heard a lot of great input regarding the Geezer Butler P/J set, so that might be on my radar in the future.

But as far a soldering goes, the Santellan Sounds harness was my solution, and I am so-very glad I stumbled upon them during my quest. :thumbsup:
 
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Short answer = yes!!
 
There's another scenario where a Frankenbass is called for…financial necessity!

Early this year, during the post-Christmas months, money was a bit tight. At the same time, someone on the forum was looking for a decent, MIM Jazz neck. After debating a number of factors, I decided to sell my Blacktop Jazz's neck, as well as the body from my Classic '70s Jazz and put the two, remaining parts together. Make no mistake, selling that lovely body stung a quite a bit. But not only was it necessary, but it was the neck that most-attracted me in the first place. So, I went from these...

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...to this!

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Overall, I am quite happy with the results AND I have a uniquely-spec'd bass that is quite killer, both visually and sonically.

Do it Malak!!!!! the Geezers are seriously mid heavy...bark and growl for days!

The thought has crossed my mind, but for now I'm good with what I got. Besides, if I read the page correctly, both the GZR-J pup and my Fender Super 55 are split-coils, yes? Oh, and for the record, I dumped the pictured SD Quarter Pounder. It waaaaaay overpowered the bridge pickup and was a bit too "clangy/clacky" for my taste. The MIJ Standard Precision pickup I got here on TB is as great as it was inexpensive! :greedy: :thumbsup:

The Aerodyne neck I upgraded it to is also great. Once I install the vinyl inlay stickers I got from Jockomo, I'll do another, proper photo-shoot.
 
THIS!

The love for Geezers on TB is not misplaced. I'm running the P/J set in my frankensquier, and it's my number one now. Just unbelievable, really.

Geez! Alright already!! :confused: I'll seriously consider it! :D

The one thing I wonder is, would it work with my series/parallel harness? Looking at the kit, I'm gonna say "probably not".
 
they can be wired series/Parallel! not sure about that harness however....

Based upon the pics of each harness, it looks like I'd have to clip the wire sockets on one end to plug them in and hope they work. Of course, if the GZR's are "active-only pickups", then it'd be moot. Besides, I wouldn't be surprised if a big part of their unique sound comes from the preamp, much like the difference between a humbucker and a humbucker going through a Music Man preamp.

EMG P/J Harness
pj-set-kit_0.jpg


Santellan Sounds Series/Parallel Harness
Bass_series_3905129b-32b6-483b-99c4-e2ad2ad5427e_1024x1024.jpg
 
DSCF0443_zps2nobu3oq.jpg


and this so needs a maple neck with black blocks and binding!

Given the lengths I went to just to get, not to mention keep, that neck? Cold, dead hands, Snake…cold and dead. :dead: :D

What can I say, visually speaking, I'm a rosewood guy. But yeah, it would look killer with a Geddy/'70s style maple neck. :cool:
 
Based upon the pics of each harness, it looks like I'd have to clip the wire sockets on one end to plug them in and hope they work. Of course, if the GZR's are "active-only pickups", then it'd be moot. Besides, I wouldn't be surprised if a big part of their unique sound comes from the preamp, much like the difference between a humbucker and a humbucker going through a Music Man preamp.

EMG P/J Harness
pj-set-kit_0.jpg


Santellan Sounds Series/Parallel Harness
Bass_series_3905129b-32b6-483b-99c4-e2ad2ad5427e_1024x1024.jpg

Sorry, didn't mean to pile on :(

The geezers come with a completely passive harness (one of the very few passive sets from EMG). You can actually just throw the harness in the bin and wire them up to your existing electronics if you wanted to. I'd have to check the cap value but the pots are nothing oddball. I know some other folks here have done it that way.

All that said, if you love what you have, don't let anyone here badger you to change it, especially me :D

/variety, spice of life, etc
 
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Sorry, didn't mean to pile on :(

The geezers come with a completely passive harness (one of the very few passive sets from EMG). You can actually just throw the harness in the bin and wire them up to your existing electronics if you wanted to. I'd have to check the cap value but the pots are nothing oddball. I know some other folks here have done it that way.

All that said, if you love what you have, don't let anyone here badger you to change ir, especially me :D

Nah, you're not dog-piling me at all. I asked, you answered and I thank you for that. :thumbsup:

I'll need to read up more. I missed the fact that they're completely passive. Perhaps I could use a set with my existing wiring harness. All I'd probably need to do is like I mentioned before, get a couple of their plug-in wire sets and cut off the ends going towards the harness. Definite food-for-thought! ;)
 
Given the lengths I went to just to get, not to mention keep, that neck? Cold, dead hands, Snake…cold and dead. :dead: :D

What can I say, visually speaking, I'm a rosewood guy. But yeah, it would look killer with a Geddy/'70s style maple neck. :cool:

I'm a sucker for blocks and bindings and that's gorgeous. I'm more of a maple board girl, but that, I love.
 
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all three of the basses pictured above are all frankenbasses....and assembled from mostly Fender Parts.....(aftermarket bridges and electronics)

good luck finding anything like them off the rack

and for the record way cheaper than buying new and in all but 1 case way cheaper than buying used as well!

Wish I could "like" a few dozen more times. :)

Your white and pearl P is a glorious glittery snowdrift. Just all kinds of WANT.
 
I'm a sucker for blocks and bindings and that's gorgeous. I'm more of a maple board girl, but that, I love.

Yeah, it's a beaut! The only downside is, when I switched necks, the tint-job I did on the pickguard's edge didn't quite fit the overall look, so I had to switch to the standard black/white/black guard.

Before…
IMG_0303_zps0a4c94e5.jpg


…after…
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…and back again.

Oh, for the record, not to mention getting the thread back towards "mods & builds", if anyone is interested in how I did the tinting, I've posted extensive instructions (possibly waaaaay more extensive than such a simple job needs! :facepalm:) on their respective threads.
Startin' the (New Bass) Day by poundin' the Blacktop | TalkBass.com
Unveiling ~ Part Two: Projekt Blue II | TalkBass.com
 
Personally, building frankenbasses is one of the most satisfying things I've done since I got into basses. It's very addictive. The creations may not have huge monetary value, but they can turn out really well and if you grasp certain minimal fundamental skills, they can be amazing players.

I've built about seven or so since last January.
 
Since we're showing here's the basses I mentioned earlier.

I wanted a Lakland Decade (who doesnt?) but I wanted more of a P-width neck and my funds were low. Howver I had a really battered T-40 with darkstars. I refinished the back of the T-40 neck and kept the tuners. Sold the body to a TB'er who needed it and had the body below made by TB'er "Redemptionbass". While I was at it I had him tweak the Decade body shape to incorporate a few elements of EB/SG and Wal shapes. The finish is a dark mahogany grain filler and a bunch of coats of hand-rubbed poly. Add a BAII and some Radio Shack knobs and it's my main player. Got around $600 into this one.

Frankenbodyonside.jpg


This next one began as a jazz that I cobbled together from parts I got cheap while working at GC in the early 00's including a Fender '62 Jazz "Genuine parts" (remember those...) neck. Years later I realized I only liked P-necks so it got a P neck and a refin to trans-red. Not a great pic, but you get the idea. Since this less-than-great pic I've removed the pickup cover (will put it back someday) and added a white pearloid guard. She's a flashy lady. By buying mostly used or bargain parts I've probably got less than $600 invested in this and I'm much happier with it than I would be with any off-the-shelf jazz bass at the same price point.
-Dimarzio Model J's
-Badass II
-Push-pull pot for series/parallel switching.
-Hipshot ultralights
-Warmoth maple/rosewood P-Neck
-Allparts Ash body
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