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Is it so difficult to put a bridge in the right place?

This is becoming a real pet peeve of mine. After reading @jazzbass_5 's post about his crooked bridge, I thought I'd let off some steam. Three out of four of my 5-string basses have bridges that are not aligned with the centerline of the neck. I want to see the A-string go through the CENTER of the frickin' dots!

Sadowsky MetroExpress J/J
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Sadowsky MetroLine P/J
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Fender American Professional II Precision V

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Dingwall SP1 - at least they know how to do it
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You do realize that the center of the A-string is not actually in the center line of the neck, right?

The Dingwall has more fingerboard margin on the G-string side than the B-string side because the center lines of the strings are shifted toward the B string, and it looks like the air gap between the strings also narrows from the G toward the B string sides. The A string is centered on the dots, but at the expense of asymmetrical string spacing and edge margin. The other basses appear to have more symmetrical margin and air gaps.

If all the strings were the same diameter, then you would have a point, but they aren't. You can either make the center lines of each string equidistant, making the air gaps change as the string diameters change, or you can make the air gap between the strings equidistant, which moves the center lines progressively apart as the diameter of the strings gets smaller.
 
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I want to see the A-string go through the CENTER of the frickin' dots!
That would be wrong. Strings are not evenly spaced centre-to-centre on the neck. Because the strings are a graduated thickness, to keep the feel of the spacing between the strings even the nut has graduated spacing, the consequence of which is that the A string is shifter slightly to the tight of the neck's centre line. The look of it bothers lots of folks, so you are not alone. I think the builders ought to consider centring the dots under the A string, but then some OCD people will complain that the neck looks lop-sided.
 
Negative and not necessarily desirable. A well-cut nut (compensatory spacing) shifts the strings...well, at least the A / D / G...towards the treble side so it is slightly off-center. StewMac actually sells a guide which assists in this layout. The good news is that each of the basses above demo fairly decent string alignment. OTOH and unless otherwise spec'd, the fretboard markers are usually installed dead-center. If the strings were perfectly centered and equidistant center-to-center, the spacing among the larger gauge strings would be a bit cramped and difficult to navigate.

Riis
 
Well, I feel a little embarrassed now. Thanks for educating me on this! I thought that the strings were spaced center-to-center. Now I have one less thing to obsess over :laugh:
You came in a little hot on the subject but... it's not a stupid question!

This has been discussed in Luthier's Corner a few times. The responses from experienced builders taught me a lot.


 
The crooked bridge is definitely something to get worked up about......

If I had bought that bass and knowing my penchant for resolving things quickly, even if I have to do it myself, I would give Fender a big harrumph and see if I could remedy the crooked bridge myself. More than likely, I could.

Glad I didn't have to. The A-M Pro II P5 I bought recently was quite well-put-together. Fit and finish were perfect.
 
The crooked bridge is definitely something to get worked up about......

If I had bought that bass and knowing my penchant for resolving things quickly, even if I have to do it myself, I would give Fender a big harrumph and see if I could remedy the crooked bridge myself. More than likely, I could.

Glad I didn't have to. The A-M Pro II P5 I bought recently was quite well-put-together. Fit and finish were perfect.
I love my P5. It's the most expressive bass I own. Enjoy!
 
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A lot of Fender Jazzes are a little off, but it's not usually the bridge, it's usually the neck has just shifted a bit. You can fix this by loosening the joint and knocking it over a bit, then re-tightening. Usually it's off a bit on the G string, placing the string a little closer to the edge of the fretboard. Not a big deal. Unless you pull on your strings a lot while fretting you won't even notice it.
 
I've seen fivers with the A string centered over the dot, so the nut layout on those may not be compensatory.

Or the dots have perhaps been shifted over.

I've been trying to decide if I could play a fretted neck that didn't have dots.

I think I could play a MTD 4 string but Anthony Jackson's Fodera sixers look like a blinding sea of grid.
 
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You came in a little hot on the subject but... it's not a stupid question!

This has been discussed in Luthier's Corner a few times. The responses from experienced builders taught me a lot.


Thanks for this. I read through the threads, and it makes sense.
 
I've been trying to decide if I could play a fretted neck that didn't have dots.

I think I could play a MTD 4 string but Anthony Jackson's Fodera sixers look like a blinding sea of grid.
You can't typically see the face dots on a 6 string when you play, anyway. Or a 4 or 5 string, for that matter, unless you're hunched over with your neck cranked around to see. I suppose it would also depend on one's body shape and whether the bass sits vertically or lays over on it's back against the belly, but then your fretting wrist is gonna have a very uncomfortable bend to reach around to the lower strings.

I've preferred no face dots on most of my basses, including 5 and 6 strings, and of course none of my fretless basses have face dots. They just don't even get seen by the player unless you're making a special effort to see them. Ironically, I do have 2 face dots on my upright at the 12th and 19th positions.