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I've Lurked Long Enough - Cort Headless Rebuild

#21
The resin filling on the large extra cavity hole in the back of the bass worked quite well. I mixed the resin & hardener as per the instructions, it ate a hole through the bottom of the plastic cup I was mixing it in, and I allowed it to flow from that hole into the cavity. Once cured, it is approximately 3/16" from the top of the bass, and I will cut a maple cover to fill the remaining gap.

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I have also plugged three of the extra holes that ran right through the body. Simple dowel plugs, tapered, and then glued into the holes. Once they dry I will cut them off flush with the body, and I will dam the remaining "cavity expansion hole" in the back to prep it to be filled with resin as well.

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Thanks for reading along!
 
#23
It was simple Rust Check resin. I had it lying around the shop. Any polyester resin should work just as well. I had this one left over from a repair job I did on a canoe.

What I like, is as long as the bass is set level (check and recheck) then the resin will flow and self level as well. Makes putting the wooden cap on top of it quite easy.
 
#27
By way of steering those who see this and are inspired - no offense to the OP, but resin or any other filler like that is not advisable in these situations. The resin will change shape differently from the wood around it, and it will likely develop checks and cracks in the eventual finish. The paint may also take to the different surfaces leaving a visible line that appears after everything is dry and leveled. On top of all that, most resins are much heavier than wood, so you may also be introducing extra weight.

I realize this thread is an exercise in skill-building, so this post is not meant to discourage the OP in any way from heading along this path and project, I'm just providing food for thought for any who may view this thread, think its a great idea, and head off to do the same... :)
 
#29
OP mentioned that he will be putting a piece of wood on it to fill the gap:
"Once cured, it is approximately 3/16" from the top of the bass, and I will cut a maple cover to fill the remaining gap."
 
#33
I know this thread is a bit older, but if anyone's still reading, I have a question. I'm doing a similar project and I'm curious what the best grit of sandpaper would be to remove the black finish and hopefully not scar up the wood too badly. Also, what would I use to treat the bare wood? Just ting oil, or some sort of clear coat? Thanks.
 

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