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You mean to have a master volume instead of individual volumes? Absolutely. You replace the second volume knob with a blend pot (usually), which pans between the two pickups.
Love those Model Js, by the way. They're possibly the best affordable aftermarket J pickups.
Retracted.I highly recommend this (with a no-load tone pot):
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/ultimate-no-load-ungrounded-blend-pot-pics.1096449
Yes. This a thousand times. My biggest point of contempt for the Jazz Bass V/V wiring is the reversed volume pot, which is also normally combined with an audio taper for further stupidity, and then the tone pot is parallel to the jack. I think perhaps with the right set of custom tapered pots, you could get meaningful volume pot action going, but I just feel like your average Jazz Bass is wired with a bunch of controls not really designed to do what people think they're supposed to do. A reversed volume pot connects the pickup to ground, and then there's further resistance from that pickup to the output. I just feel like a regular volume pot just feels so much better as you turn it down.With the removal of one volume pot, you gain the ability to reverse the input and output of the master volume pot, and wire the tone control parallel to the pickup, rather than the jack. This will improve the taper and performance of the controls. This method would take a bit more time and effort, but it would be worth it, IMO.
By the way, I'm pretty sure this modification does nothing. In fact, I was skeptical enough that I did this modification to a 250k M/N blend pot, connected the wire on the unmodified lugs, then checked with a multimeter to the input and output lugs. Sure enough, it acted exactly like any unmodified 250k M/N ungrounded blend pot does, showing 250k resistance from the pickup you panned away from.
And if you think about how a potentiometer works, it's clear why that modification doesn't do anything. It's because sure, you've removed the other lug from the potentiometer, but what have you done, exactly? In an ungrounded blend pot, that lug is never used, anyway, and the potentiometer, all it can do between the input and the output lugs is give you somewhere from 0-250K resistance. When you're fully swept away from the input lug, there's still 250k of carbon between the input and output. The reason why people like this modified ungrounded 250k M/N blend is has nothing to do with cutting the tracks.
But despite my skepticism, I was willing to give it a shot, so I wired a Jazz Bass with it and hooked it up to an amp. If on the extremes the pickups are truly soloed, then I should be able to set the blend to neck, then tap the bridge pickup magnets with a screwdriver and not hear it. Yet I could hear the tapping sound no matter where the blend was set. Meanwhile, when I used a switch, it'd be completely silent if I tapped the bridge magnets when the switch was set to neck, and vice versa. That said, it's not like I felt betrayed by this modification. I was sure it wouldn't work, and it didn't, but I wanted an ungrounded blend pot to begin with, so I left it in.
In short, an ungrounded blend pot is enough. I do recommend it, though, it's a good scheme. I mean, just like any blend pot, it only has like five sounds, but it has a better presentation of those sounds than a grounded blend pot does, it causes less load on the pickups, and it's fully compatible with series/parallel mods. I think why it's better is because the standard blend pot requires something like a 500k M/N to avoid loading the pickups more than a standard V/V setup, but then that reduces any meaningful blend sweep, IMO, because nothing happens until the very end, there's a big volume drop in the middle, etc. The ungrounded pot lets you use a 250k M/N without loading the pickups additionally, and it really makes the middle position come alive, and there's little (if any) volume drop either.
OK, I think I finally understand the theory of it now. I thought I cut enough of the track, but perhaps I hadn't. I'm shining a light into the blend pot I used, and I didn't do it properly. The wiper still reaches the track.The idea of cutting the track is to allow the wiper terminal to disconnect from the track, at the extreme of the rotation. This means that instead of having just 250k Ohms of resistance, you have an infinite resistance, because the wiper doesn't touch the track at all. If you cut the track, but still have 250k Ohms resistance, then you cut the track too close to the end, so that the wiper is still touching it, at the extreme end of the rotation.
My Squier Jag has DiMarzio pups. One is the Jazz style 123 in the bridge position. The other is a split P.I have a jazz bass and was wondering if is possible to wire both pickups to one volume pot? (like is it a good idea) It's a Squier that i put DiMarzio Model J (DP123) pickups in. Any feedback helps. Thanks!