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Jazz Shielding Pictorial (Big Images Warning)
- Thread starter Lyle Caldwell
- Start date
Sorry to bump, but on a P bass, wouldnt it also work the same at the "original" shielding diagrams, just that i leave out the bridge Pup and wire everything else from the pickup to the volume control? My P bass hums alot, and it seems i might do some studio stuff soon, and it cant hum like that then
Yes. Since the P pickup is humbucking by nature, if you have hum, it must be a shielding issue.Sorry to bump, but on a P bass, wouldnt it also work the same at the "original" shielding diagrams, just that i leave out the bridge Pup and wire everything else from the pickup to the volume control? My P bass hums alot, and it seems i might do some studio stuff soon, and it cant hum like that then
However, that said, most studios don't have the kind of interference shielding protects against, so the chances are, you'd be fine anyway.
Using a good DI like the radial JDI in the studio takes care of about 100% of the hum you'd be getting. My single coil unshielded jazz bass does not hum with the pickups soloed plugged into a JDI.
I have newly installed the pickup and the pots,(though they are from 73 and 74, might this be a issue?) so it might verywell be bad shielding and maby a few wrong wirings.. anyhow, ill be hitting stewmac for what they have of things i can use there
ill also need to change the nut becouse its slightly more to the e side than the G side. (someone else would have complained to the seller, im just happy that it gives me a chance to learn this stuff )
Perfect. Stewmac is a great source as well. When you get done with all this, it'll be just right!I have newly installed the pickup and the pots,(though they are from 73 and 74, might this be a issue?) so it might verywell be bad shielding and maby a few wrong wirings.. anyhow, ill be hitting stewmac for what they have of things i can use there
...but not quite as reliable. Soldering the sheets together is the only way to assure permanent electrical connection (unless you wanna' use screws, but I'd think that'd be even more hassle.)
Ívar Þórólfsson;1837731 said:Good job!
I´m though not going to add this thread to the clutter here above by stickying it..
I´m on the other hand going to put it in the mandatory reading material, otherwise known as the Pickup FAQ here at the top of this forum
Now we just have to hope that Lyle doesn´t delete the pics off his server
Paul has recently added a Wiki function to this website, which is the perfect repository for this sort of article. I added an article describing my similar activity for silencing my Marcus Miller. Here's the link to my article. You should do the same with this article. http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Silencing_the_Noise_on_a_Marcus_Miller_Signature_Bass
Lets try this in words:
- P bass to shield,
_ what we then do is to take the black wire from the pickup and solder it to the sheets of for instance Copperfoil we have covered controll cavity in.
- bridge ground also goes to that same spot.
- I dont need the grounding wire that goes from Volume controll, to Tone controll to output jack regularly?
- Should the otput jack also be connected to the same place as the bridge/pickup grounding?
Also, Is it possible to remove selfadhesive Copperfoil? if i ever decide to sell my bass in the future, it is vintage(but a player, it have a carved out a battery cavity in it, so i doubt shielding will do any difference in Value for it..)
- P bass to shield,
_ what we then do is to take the black wire from the pickup and solder it to the sheets of for instance Copperfoil we have covered controll cavity in.
- bridge ground also goes to that same spot.
- I dont need the grounding wire that goes from Volume controll, to Tone controll to output jack regularly?
- Should the otput jack also be connected to the same place as the bridge/pickup grounding?
Also, Is it possible to remove selfadhesive Copperfoil? if i ever decide to sell my bass in the future, it is vintage(but a player, it have a carved out a battery cavity in it, so i doubt shielding will do any difference in Value for it..)
The black wire from the pickup coil (i.e., the signal wire) should NOT TOUCH the copper shielding sheets. Rather it needs to be kept with the signal wires that are soldered together in one cluster with the other signal wires, and insulated so it doesn't touch the cavity shielding. I would run a wire from this cluster directly to the output jack ground lug.
The bridge ground wire, however, SHOULD be connected to the cavity shield.
Bridge and pickup grounds need to be separated.
So basically, what im doing is a standard wiring exept for the bridge ground wire being conected to the cavity? Judged by the wiring scheme above, the black wire and the Bridge ground wire is going to the same spot.
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its currently wired as this (exept it having a 05. cap...) how would i move all the cables to make it "Corect" for completely shielding the bass?
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its currently wired as this (exept it having a 05. cap...) how would i move all the cables to make it "Corect" for completely shielding the bass?
Oops, you are right - the diagram above does indeed show the signal and equipment grounds going to the same point. I don't do that, thus my response differs from the schematic you were looking at above - sorry for causing confusion. (I separate the signal grounds (pups, pots) from equipment grounds (shield, bridge) and connect the signal ground wires to ground only at the jack body. Otherwise it is pretty much the same as described at the top of this thread. Hoping not to add more confusion, but for a cross-reference I explain what I did with re-wiring and shielding in my wiki article, noted a few posts above.)
And, the standard wiring in the link you provided shows ground loops all over the place with the wires between the pots shells and such, whereas the schematic has none of that.
If you're working with a p bass with one p pickup, use this diagram, it worked great for me. Just solder one wire at a time onto the casing. I tried to splice them all together and solder all at once, it was just a mess. Be patient.
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Very weird.. this doesnt work for me at all, its dead silent.
but if i do it the other way, the cap on the outer peg on the tone, and the led from where the pickup come on the middle, i get a sound, but both function as volume controls, and when im halfway down its silent..
might the 0.50 cap im using make a difference? all the hardware is from a 74 mustang..
on the other hand its quiet and sounds great this way
Maby i shall try following Seymour Duncans wiring scheme..
when im done with this, im never opening the bass again
I find it VERY weird that there is so many ways to wire a simple P bass..
I just did this copper shielding/star ground/pot upgrade (VBT) mod on my ultra-cheap ebay bass. I also added series/parallel pull switch, and phase toggle switch on the B pup. The bass is now dead quiet with the pickups blended in phase, and is much quieter than stock in single coil or blended out of phase.
This bass is a "rogue clone" Chinese 5-string fretless from NationalMusicSupply: J pickups, rosewood fretboard, black on black. I'm now using labella black tapewounds (stock roundwounds were cutting up the fretboard), so it's "ultra-black"! It has a surprizingly good neck for a $100 bass.
This bass is a "rogue clone" Chinese 5-string fretless from NationalMusicSupply: J pickups, rosewood fretboard, black on black. I'm now using labella black tapewounds (stock roundwounds were cutting up the fretboard), so it's "ultra-black"! It has a surprizingly good neck for a $100 bass.
