Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Jazz Shielding Pictorial (Big Images Warning)
- Thread starter Lyle Caldwell
- Start date
Ach - no luck as yet. Have to get myself a meter to measure resistance and check for continuity, make sure everything's airtight. I'm also going to ground the pots to the output jack and see if that helps.
*crosses fingers*
*crosses fingers*
Don't connect the pot cases to the output jack sleeve if you already have everything shielded. But do make sure your shielding is tied to the output jack sleeve.
Forgive me for being so thick, but I want to be sure I understand this correctly.
My Bass is a standard P and J configuration. The pots do not attach to a steel plate but rather through the body (like a Les Paul). I intend to sheild the control and pickup cavities, replace the stock pickups with Duncan Quarter-Pounders and star ground the electronics.
I'm confused about the ground loop thing. Since the control cavity is shielded with copper and the Pots contact the shield when mounted, isn't this considered a ground? If I then wire as described in the above illustration, do I introduce a loop or is this only the case if I were to ground the Pot casings as well?
I would greatly appreciate an experts help with this.
Thanks,
Sid
If you put shielding foil in the cavity, then the pot casings will all be tied together through the shield, you are fine as shown in that diagram so long as the cavity is shielded.
No wire from pot case to pot case is needed.
No wire from pot case to pot case is needed.
Thanks for the quick response and concise answer. My Donation as a supporting member will be in your honor.
Sid
No problem. This forum is well worth it, and I lurked around long enough to feel somehow obligated anyway. You helped seal the deal.
That works, with no loops, near as I can tell. An alternate method that might be cleaner is to remove the wires from the ground lugs of the volume pots and bend them back and solder them to the top of the pot casing. Then, the ground travels through the pot casing, into the shielding, to the sleeve on the jack. This is also free of loops, and requires less wires in your cavity.
Note: This only works with basses that are shielded or have the pots and jack mounted on a metal control plate.
Note: This only works with basses that are shielded or have the pots and jack mounted on a metal control plate.
That works, but it's better to have the shielding separate from the audio ground except at the output jack.
im about to start shielding my p bass and since i need things spelled out for me, i have a question. using this diagram, i would basically connect all the connections that are connected to the vol pot casing, to the grounding lug, and the bridge ground would be an optional thing?
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Sounds right to me, tho the pot casing IS actually the hub of the star here, so as far as I'm concerned, what's pictured will work just as well, just be a bit more of a pain to solder, but would make it easier to pull the pickguard off and work on stuff (fewer wires going to bass body cavity).
Ok, so it would be in my best interest to solder a wire onto the tone cap and then put the wire to the lug (or casing) so the cap wouldn't be stretched out?
Usually, there's foil on the back of a P pickguard, in which case, you wouldn't need to. Otherwise, I'm not sure if it's a problem in that particular case or not, but it wouldn't hurt. If it was me, I'd just foil the back of the pickguard anyway, so it wouldn't be necessary.
Remember, the whole idea is to put everything in a grounded "can".
so are you saying that anything coming from a pot doesn't need to be connected to the grounding lug (or pot casing) because it'll contact the foil on the back of the pick guard, and that in turn touches the grounding lug?
What I mean is, all the pots should be "connected" to each other via the metal control plate on a J or the foil on the back of the pickguard on a P, so you should only need one wire from the pots to the lug (in other words, no need for another wire on the tone pot, to your earlier question). However, in theory, if you bring a tab from the foil in the cavity up over the edge so it makes contact with the plate/pickguard, even that might not be needed, but the wire is always a safe bet.
k, sorry, im pretty dense, maybe i just cant read what you posted, or maybe i wrote my question confusing. basically everything touching that vol pot's casing is going to the grounding lug, including the capacitor. i was actually asking if it would be better to solder a wire to the cap so the cap itself isnt on the grounding lug, but the wire that ive soldered. so no other new connection, just extending the cap's wire i guess you could call it.
sorry for the mix up, i really appreciate your help on this so i dont blow up my bass.
sorry for the mix up, i really appreciate your help on this so i dont blow up my bass.
Oh, ok, well, maybe my bad. Yeah, I think that'd be a good idea. Electronically, no benefit, but every time you had to take the PG off you'd be flexing the (solid core) cap lead. Even tho on a passive bass you'd rarely have to do this, I'd just feel better about having only flexible (stranded) wire going between the two locations.
Alright, thanks vic. I'd give you some lovin, but I don't swing that way, but I'll give you my appreciation.
