Does anyone have any tips on removing a fretboard of the neck from a G&L L2500 bass? I tried the iron heat method for 30 minutes and nothing happened. This is to remove the truss Rod and replace.
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G&L L2500 Fret Board Removal
- Thread starter Agosix
- Start date
The iron method is the way, however you will need something thin to get under the end of the fingerboard.
Think like a thick putty knife. 30 minutes is way too long for 1 area, it should only take minutes.
In 30 minutes you should be able to remove the whole thing.
Start at the body end, leave the iron on it for a couple minutes, take your time, and it should loosen
the glue a bit, then it's just a matter of getting it started. You just keep working your way down the neck.
Again no rush, take your time and use something to hold the fingerboard up as you slide your knife and work your way down.
Think like a thick putty knife. 30 minutes is way too long for 1 area, it should only take minutes.
In 30 minutes you should be able to remove the whole thing.
Start at the body end, leave the iron on it for a couple minutes, take your time, and it should loosen
the glue a bit, then it's just a matter of getting it started. You just keep working your way down the neck.
Again no rush, take your time and use something to hold the fingerboard up as you slide your knife and work your way down.
I did try that but from what I’ve read is that G&L may have used a super type of glue that is not like Hyde glue or titebond.
Sorry but I highly doubt that assumption.
It would make no financial sense for any manufacturer to do that.
Every fingerboard I've ever dealt with was glued with wood glue or hide glue.
Pretty sure the iron method would work with CA, but I hate the stuff so never tried it.
Did you try to get something thin and strong under the fingerboard to get it going?
It would make no financial sense for any manufacturer to do that.
Every fingerboard I've ever dealt with was glued with wood glue or hide glue.
Pretty sure the iron method would work with CA, but I hate the stuff so never tried it.
Did you try to get something thin and strong under the fingerboard to get it going?
Yes. I tried a special tool from StewMac for that and a sharp edge of a knife. Going to try the iron again but with a heat gun pointed at a scraper.
G&L was not known for repairing necks, ever. They simply replaced them.
I'm not saying they used some mysterious super-glue, but just that repairability wasn't a concern at G&L, despite a boatload of documented truss-rod failures on later bass models.
Jazzdogg
Less barking, more wagging!
It can be very difficult to find adhesives that can withstand high temperatures.
Here are the results of an AI query:
AI OverviewAdhesive failure temperatures vary widely by chemical type, with standard consumer glues failing around 70°C to 82°C (158°F to 180°F) and high-performance industrial formulations lasting past 250°C (482°F) or dropping below -40°C (-40°F).High-Temperature Failure Limits (Heat Resistance)Standard Cyanoacrylates (Super Glue): Fails or softens around 82°C (180°F).Standard Sign Vinyl Adhesives: Lose holding power and curl around 70°C to 90°C (158°F to 194°F).Standard Anaerobic Threadlockers: Withstand up to 150°C (302°F) before degrading.High-Strength Epoxies & Silicones: Maintain integrity up to 232°C to 350°C (450°F to 662°F).Ceramic-Based Adhesives: Resist extreme heat up to 650°C (1202°F).
Here are the results of an AI query:
AI OverviewAdhesive failure temperatures vary widely by chemical type, with standard consumer glues failing around 70°C to 82°C (158°F to 180°F) and high-performance industrial formulations lasting past 250°C (482°F) or dropping below -40°C (-40°F).High-Temperature Failure Limits (Heat Resistance)Standard Cyanoacrylates (Super Glue): Fails or softens around 82°C (180°F).Standard Sign Vinyl Adhesives: Lose holding power and curl around 70°C to 90°C (158°F to 194°F).Standard Anaerobic Threadlockers: Withstand up to 150°C (302°F) before degrading.High-Strength Epoxies & Silicones: Maintain integrity up to 232°C to 350°C (450°F to 662°F).Ceramic-Based Adhesives: Resist extreme heat up to 650°C (1202°F).
From what I’m reading that seems to be the case. I’ll give it another shot over the weekend. If my patience runs out, I’ll go to eBay or Musikraft or Andrew Drake for a new neck.
thats interesting. G&L May have used a high temperature resistant glue.
