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Jazz Shielding Pictorial (Big Images Warning)

Extremely impressive work. I can never make my shielding look so neat on the edges. What is your secret??? Your pickup cavities look soooo clean!

The secret is to cut straight edges when you are dimensioning the tape. Don't use scissors: I use the blade style paper trimmers you find at office supply stores:

11967472.jpg


This will keep the cut pieces square and straight (it's how I made the bridge jazz pickup pieces so clean along the top edge).

Also, burnishing is critical. I use a sharpened pencil with the graphite point cut off for corners, and the eraser side for large flat areas. You really want to rub down the tape everywhere so it adheres well and lays down flat with the minimum of wrinkles. With conductive adhesive this may be enough but it doesn't hurt to tack solder the pieces together as well.
 
I'm new to this thread so apologies if this has been asked/answered before.
Does anybody know which type or brands of Copper Tape, except the stew mac stuff has conducting adhesive ?
I was going to get some of the Slug Repellent tape from a garden center, but don't want to waste my time, and money if it's no good.

Would this kind of product be sufficient ?

http://www.thegardenersshop.co.uk/slug-copper-tape---4-metres-574-p.asp

I wouldn't have a problem soldering the joints if that would make a difference.
 
I'm new to this thread so apologies if this has been asked/answered before.
Does anybody know which type or brands of Copper Tape, except the stew mac stuff has conducting adhesive ?
...
I wouldn't have a problem soldering the joints if that would make a difference.
Uknown, but I personally wouldn't rely on that anyway. I strongly advise you to tack solder at least one point on EVERY seam. IMHO.
 
I'm new to this thread so apologies if this has been asked/answered before.
Does anybody know which type or brands of Copper Tape, except the stew mac stuff has conducting adhesive ?
I was going to get some of the Slug Repellent tape from a garden center, but don't want to waste my time, and money if it's no good.

Would this kind of product be sufficient ?

http://www.thegardenersshop.co.uk/slug-copper-tape---4-metres-574-p.asp

I wouldn't have a problem soldering the joints if that would make a difference.

Not sure of your location, Wud, but if you're in the UK (or anywhere in Europe), I recommend this stuff ...

Link ...

I've shielded five basses in the last month using this copper tape. The adhesive is fully conductive and so I haven't needed to tack solder anything :). It goes on neatly too. Here's one that I did this afternoon ...

DSC_4860.jpg


DSC_4863.jpg
 
Is it necessary to shield a bass if your fitting an active set of pick ups ?
I was thinking of shielding but have changed my mind regarding my potential pick up purchase.
I can't afford to waste time or money if it's not going to make any difference.
Cheers
 
Is it necessary to shield a bass if your fitting an active set of pick ups ?
I was thinking of shielding but have changed my mind regarding my potential pick up purchase.
I can't afford to waste time or money if it's not going to make any difference.
Cheers
Pickup type doesn't matter. What matters is, how well shielded and grounded are the pickups. Not knowing the answer, it's always a safe bet to do the shielding. If nothing else, then it doesn't matter as much and you can swap pickups around if you want and always know you have yourself as well covered as possible.
 
okay, is it possible after shielding the cavities of a Jazz Bass that it becomes... "microphonic"? i don't know the right term, but EVERY little touch on the bass body or even the strap locks elicit, well, not noise, but it's just like the entire bass in very sensitive.
is this normal?
should i undo the copper tape job? (keep in mind, i didn't do ALL of what the OP said. i just filled my cavities with the copper tape as per a suggestion to quiet down my bass.)
 
This is my work, with copper tape ...
Nice work!

Quick recommendation, tho. I don't see any tack solder spots on any of the seams. I know you've already put the wiring in there, but I strongly recommend you put a small solder blob across any of the seams you can still get to. A little bit of flux helps the solder flow across the seam and spread onto the tape. The adhesive on the back of the tape is somewhat conductive (by design), but it's not a reliable way to assure a near zero ohm "connection"... especially long term.
 
Nice work!

Quick recommendation,...I strongly recommend you put a small solder blob across any of the seams you can still get to. "... especially long term.

Thanks for the tip.

I tested with multimeter the adhesive on the back of the tape is Realy somewhat conductive. And before putting the tape, the cavity was painted with conductive paint .
I gonna try put a small solder blob across any of the seams. "... especially long term."
 
Thanks for the tip.

I tested with multimeter the adhesive on the back of the tape is Realy somewhat conductive. And before putting the tape, the cavity was painted with conductive paint .
I gonna try put a small solder blob across any of the seams. "... especially long term."
Ahhh, previously painted with conductive paint does help, but I still think it's good that you're gonna' do the blobs anyway... good "insurance".
 
Question for the experts?

Is there anything to be gained from shielding a bass with copper tape that was coated at the factory with shielding paint? Will it make a difference?
Depends on the quality and thickness of the paint. I'd say if you're having noise problems, put shielding where there isn't any first. Maybe the cavity is ok, but the pickup routes would benefit from a tape/grounding wire job. If that didn't work, then finish up with the cavity. If that didn't work, it's probably a pickup design issue, and you can't solve that.

Simple truth is, you can't make every bass silent. Sorry.
 
On, say, a Jazz Bass, can one use a pickup cover as a mold for the piece of tape that will be used in th bridge pickup cavity?
Yep, or, you could lay the tape over the cavity and do like a rubbing to make a crease to cut along. This works for folks who have pickups that can't be removed from their shells.
 
Yep, or, you could lay the tape over the cavity and do like a rubbing to make a crease to cut along. This works for folks who have pickups that can't be removed from their shells.
I wonder if you can use the pickup cover facing up the first time to apply the fold points first, the for the next step, flip the pickup over and press it down to flatten the areas of the tape that are supposed to be flat.