Hey Vic,
First, I agree with what you've said and am appreciative that you responded to the posts here I missed (had a TB/Mozilla headache that's just now cleared up).
But...
I think it's important for people to realize that while star grounding is the ideal, in a bass circuit with low voltages and low current and such short distances, there is no practical or audible difference between "exact" star grounding and the "psuedo" star grounding I used in the pictorial and in the diagrams.
I used the wiring I did so there wouldn't be a bunch of wires between the control cavity and the control plate. So all of the ground wires from the controls go to the output jack, and all the body ground wires go to the lug in the cavity. On my bass, the cavity shielding is tied to the control plate when the control plate is screwed down, but one could also run an additional wire from the output jack to the cavity ground lug.
My approach has the benefits of star grounding but is more practical as it decreases the number of leads inside the cavity.
While in an amp I would insist on full star grounding, and even in effects circuits, in a bass like this, there is no difference to justify the hassle.
One could solder the pot lugs to the pot cases rather than run separate grounds like I did, but I think this is an area where the "pseudo" star grounding does sound better.
First, I agree with what you've said and am appreciative that you responded to the posts here I missed (had a TB/Mozilla headache that's just now cleared up).
But...
I think it's important for people to realize that while star grounding is the ideal, in a bass circuit with low voltages and low current and such short distances, there is no practical or audible difference between "exact" star grounding and the "psuedo" star grounding I used in the pictorial and in the diagrams.
I used the wiring I did so there wouldn't be a bunch of wires between the control cavity and the control plate. So all of the ground wires from the controls go to the output jack, and all the body ground wires go to the lug in the cavity. On my bass, the cavity shielding is tied to the control plate when the control plate is screwed down, but one could also run an additional wire from the output jack to the cavity ground lug.
My approach has the benefits of star grounding but is more practical as it decreases the number of leads inside the cavity.
While in an amp I would insist on full star grounding, and even in effects circuits, in a bass like this, there is no difference to justify the hassle.
One could solder the pot lugs to the pot cases rather than run separate grounds like I did, but I think this is an area where the "pseudo" star grounding does sound better.
Vic said:Remove both black wires from the pickups and solder them to a lug in the cavity. Then take a third black wire and solder it between the output jack (where the bridge pickup ground was connected) and the lug. The plate should ground all the pots and jack together, so you could just remove the common ground wires also connected to the output jack, but if you want a perfect star, just disconnect them from the jack and solder them to the lug as well.. If your bass is fully shielded, then the "ground can" will surround everything, and everything in the ground can will be connected to the ground can from a common point, which will give you a perfect star config.