JBL E 140 power handling

[Bassboy63]

Can anyone out there tell me what the correct power handling is for the JBL E 140 ? I've heard a few different numbers.

 

[Chad Michael]

Looks like 400w peak, 200w continuous..


Invalid Link Removed

 

[Downunderwonder]

It is very dependant on the box tuning and EQ. As a guitar speaker it will take your head off with something like 150w iirc.

 

[Bassboy63]

Looks like 400w peak, 200w continuous..


Invalid Link Removed

Ok thanks

 

[Bassboy63]

Ok thanks

 

[agedhorse]

What's missing is note 2 on the power spec. I would be VERY careful when powering at 200 watts (RMS) for bass guitar applications without a steep 40Hz HPF.

For MI applications (such as bass guitar), JBL issued its OEM customers a de-rating guide that recommended somewhere around 50% of the continuous rating. Therefore ~100 watts was the more typical power handling that manufacturers who used this product in their own cabinets generally recommended because they were otherwise on the hook for a very expensive warranty repair on their dime.

 

[saabfender]

Can anyone out there tell me what the correct power handling is for the JBL E 140 ? I've heard a few different numbers.

You’ve heard a couple different numbers from the mfgr’s site? That’s interesting. Don’t remember that ever happening.

 

[Chad Michael]

Listen to agedhorse ^^^ I am a JBL- ophile, but don't have enough fingers and toes to count my JBL driver / cab collection. I do know that jblproservice has been my encyclopedia for many many years.

 

[agedhorse]

Here's a newer version of the application notes for OEM's, note condition C in the power handling & derating guide.

This stuff is critical information for OEMs who may have a HUGE exposure to liability claims, and wish to insure good reliability. Of course, this was published before the absurd claims made by some manufacturers became more commonplace, which adds to the player's justifiable confusion.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[Chad Michael]

I believe that what agedhorse is trying to say, is this:

- amplified, recorded music (whether from a digital or analog source) is limited, or normalized by nature

- musical instrument amplification is not typically normalized or limited; a heavy transient is possible and likely, which is taxing on transducers

 

[Bassboy63]

So it's safe to say it's a 200 watt rms speaker? The US speaker website says that speaker is 400 watts rms.

 

[agedhorse]

So it's safe to say it's a 200 watt rms speaker? The US speaker website says that speaker is 400 watts rms.

400 watts RMS is a mistake.

If you can guarantee that you will not be driving it below 40 Hz and will not be clipping or compressing much, it could be 200 watts RMS but if not, you should read the paper I posted about derating.

 

[Bassboy63]

Interesting read, thanks.

 

[Chad Michael]

Just remember that:

- you can ensonify the driver with an amplifier that is capable ten watts or a thousand
- there are no guarantees
- an overdriven amp can send harsh square waves that will potentially destroy a driver

Get in the ballpark, regarding wattage, and have reasonable expectations. There is nothing saying that you can "turn it all the way up because the wattage is in spec".

Watts are your friend if used carefully

 

[Chad Michael]

I just hit mine really hard with my Crest CA-6. Recorded music. Used the JBL E140 / 4625 cabinet as a sub with my JBL 4732's on the mids and highs, see the ratings for the Crest CA6...


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/380353/Crest-Audio-Ca6.html

 

[Chad Michael]

 

[Bassboy63]

Well I used the JBL for about a month and took it out and put a peavey black widow 1502 in the same cabinet and the peavey could easily handle everything I threw at it no problem. I put the JBL in because I thought it could handle 400 watts, clearly that wasn't the case. Anyway the JBL is out and the peavey is in.

 

[agedhorse]

I just hit mine really hard with my Crest CA-6. Recorded music. Used the JBL E140 / 4625 cabinet as a sub with my JBL 4732's on the mids and highs, see the ratings for the Crest CA6...


CREST AUDIO CA6 SPECIFICATIONS Pdf Download.

I would be careful IF you want your E-140 drivers to last a long time. Just because you got away with it doesn't mean it's a good idea or good advice. (IMO)

 

[byacey]

Well I used the JBL for about a month and took it out and put a peavey black widow 1502 in the same cabinet and the peavey could easily handle everything I threw at it no problem. I put the JBL in because I thought it could handle 400 watts, clearly that wasn't the case. Anyway the JBL is out and the peavey is in.

Durability and efficiency isn't portrayed in the overall RMS rating of a speaker. Just because the coil may be rated for 400W RMS, doesn't mean that all that power is directly converted to audio power. The JBL has a slightly higher Xmax, and I wouldn't be surprised if the overall efficiency is higher than the Peavey. If so, the Peavey just makes a better, noisy space heater.

That's the problem with a lot of these drivers that claim exorbitant high power ratings; just because the coil will take more power, it doesn't mean that the extra power gets converted to audio power. This depends on the magnet structure: gap size and flux density, the compliance, cone mass and stiffness, and a plethora of other characteristics that can directly affect efficiency.

 

[agedhorse]

It also doesn't mean that the driver can handle the same mechanical power as it may be rated for thermally.

That's why JBL and others include derating factors.