teacherguy said:
i have a chambered bolt-on singlecut benavente.
Link Removed.
i can take pics of the neck joint if you'd like.
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Joiner "Serenade" Build Progress
- Thread starter teej
- Start date
i have a chambered bolt-on singlecut benavente.
Link Removed.
i can take pics of the neck joint if you'd like.
Got the new ebony body and neck laminates and bridge blanks from Larry @ Gallery Hardwoods this morning. I'm very much impressed!! I noticed a little sapwood on the neck laminates, and I must say that I like that contrast.
A wood as black as ebony that has a white sapwood? BRILLIANT!!
So anyway, I've been working on this little acoustic project since I can't really make any progress with the Serenade. I haven't asked Andrea about using the space behind the community room, but that's just procrastination at work.
Anywho, I just wanted to post a photo of the ebony before I head out to look for a woodshop that will cut the wenge from the neck and body blanks.
A wood as black as ebony that has a white sapwood? BRILLIANT!!
So anyway, I've been working on this little acoustic project since I can't really make any progress with the Serenade. I haven't asked Andrea about using the space behind the community room, but that's just procrastination at work.
Anywho, I just wanted to post a photo of the ebony before I head out to look for a woodshop that will cut the wenge from the neck and body blanks.
It's been a while since my last update, so I'll fill everyone in.
As far as progress goes, there hasn't been anything MAJOR. Keep in mind, I'm a full-time student, with a full-time job, and I'm simultaneously working on another bass. However, I did manage to cut out the MDF template about an hour ago.
As far as progress goes, there hasn't been anything MAJOR. Keep in mind, I'm a full-time student, with a full-time job, and I'm simultaneously working on another bass. However, I did manage to cut out the MDF template about an hour ago.
I finished the MDF template I cut out the other day. I was going to cut it out of Lexan, but I thought I'd save the thinner stuff for cavity templates. By the way, ignore the pencil markings. Those were old designs, when I was sketching directly onto the MDF, instead of paper, which I would later transfer to the MDF, as I'm doing now. Also, the neck heel probably won't be square like it is now, but I think you guys get the general idea.
Progress? No, but I did decide to sell the neck and body blanks for this project, and get new ones. Same woods, except for the wenge. I'm replacing that with the ebony I got.
I think wenge is my least favorite tonewood. After a hasty decision, I started "ripping" (cutting apart) the body blank, right down the wenge. I should note, however, that while my decision to do so was hasty, I took my time and carefully measured everything before, during, and after the resaw, except for a little incident involving my choice of saw blade, as discused below. I paused to check the jigsaw's progress, and without thinking, used my hand to wipe away the sawdust.
BAD IDEA!
Anyone who has ever worked with wenge should know how splintery it is. As you might expect, I got a splinter. Actually, I got 3, but the other two came out without incident. This other sucker, however, was about 1" long and went 1/8" straight down, into my index finger. I tried to pull it out, but it was going NOWHERE. I think the splintery nature of wenge had sort of a harpoon effect, where tiny barbs hold the point in place and to pull it out would only cause more damage. I couldn't leave the splinter in, though. After soaking it in hot water for about 5 minutes, I was able to pull it out and realize just how deep it went.
All is fine now, but it's left me with a negative disposition toward wenge.
Other than that, I sucessfully cut the body blank apart, however, the center piece of walnut didn't make it. I started cutting with a Bosch "Precision" metal-cutting blade, but because it's kind of thin, the blade curved while cutting and damaged the underside of the walnut. After I noticed this, I switched to the thicker "Precision" wood-cutting blade -- something I should have done from the start. So long story short, I cut the body apart at the cost of the center walnut laminate. Now, I'm about to head back to the shop and use the router to remove any wenge reminants from the maple laminates and prep it for regluing.
BAD IDEA!
Anyone who has ever worked with wenge should know how splintery it is. As you might expect, I got a splinter. Actually, I got 3, but the other two came out without incident. This other sucker, however, was about 1" long and went 1/8" straight down, into my index finger. I tried to pull it out, but it was going NOWHERE. I think the splintery nature of wenge had sort of a harpoon effect, where tiny barbs hold the point in place and to pull it out would only cause more damage. I couldn't leave the splinter in, though. After soaking it in hot water for about 5 minutes, I was able to pull it out and realize just how deep it went.
All is fine now, but it's left me with a negative disposition toward wenge.
Other than that, I sucessfully cut the body blank apart, however, the center piece of walnut didn't make it. I started cutting with a Bosch "Precision" metal-cutting blade, but because it's kind of thin, the blade curved while cutting and damaged the underside of the walnut. After I noticed this, I switched to the thicker "Precision" wood-cutting blade -- something I should have done from the start. So long story short, I cut the body apart at the cost of the center walnut laminate. Now, I'm about to head back to the shop and use the router to remove any wenge reminants from the maple laminates and prep it for regluing.
I supposed that by 'resawing' you mean cutting in half through it's width, which is actually called ripping. resawing means taking, for example 1" thick wood and making 2 - 1/2" thick boards.
that said, I've gotten a few wenge spliters while using microplanes to shape a neck ...not fun and when you try to get them out, it seems they want to keep digging in. But it does shape amazingly easy considering how hard it is.
that said, I've gotten a few wenge spliters while using microplanes to shape a neck ...not fun and when you try to get them out, it seems they want to keep digging in. But it does shape amazingly easy considering how hard it is.
thats a shame, wenge is maybe my favourite wood!teej said:used my hand to wipe away the sawdust.
BAD IDEA!
All is fine now, but it's left me with a negative disposition toward wenge.
i love it, but you do need to treat it very carefully i guess
oh well. all sounds good apart from that
agreed but [I love wenge]
and yes every firggintime I use it I get splinters.
but I dig them out with an exacto knife
I have low nerve sensation and a high tolerance for pain so its easy.
and yes every firggintime I use it I get splinters.
but I dig them out with an exacto knife
I have low nerve sensation and a high tolerance for pain so its easy.
I took advantage of the wenge's porosity and sprayed it with wood softener. After letting it soak through, down to the glue, I scraped most of it off, but the glue didn't come up like I had hoped. The router could do this, but I don't want to remove any wood since the maple under the glue is already flush and ready for joining. The only thing I can think of is rubbing denatured alcohol over it (to soften it) and then using a putty knife to scrap it off.
Other than that, does anyone have any suggestions?
Other than that, does anyone have any suggestions?
No major updates to report. Acetone and a putty knife removed the glue from the old joint. I'm going to try to glue up the ebony laminates tomorrow, and then order another strip of claro walnut to joint the two body halves.
Once that's done, who knows....
Once that's done, who knows....
I finished gluing and clamping the ebony laminate to body wing #1 just a few minutes ago. I decided to use Titebond II for this. Why, I don't know. I almost went with Titebond III for strength purposes, but I've heard little about people using it. Yeah, the original stuff would have probably worked A-OK, but... I dunno, I guess I'm just a little paranoid about these things. I may start using II from now on, for the same reason Ken Smith does (better resistance against the elements). Anyway, I'll let this sit overnight and start gluing body wing #2 tomorrow.
Mostly for my own curiosity and entertainment, I started work on a website (which is mostly finished) for my bass-related "business." I also gave myself a TalkBass title, but for the record, there isn't really a business.
Anywho, I traced the body shape onto some lexan, put it over the body blank (only the center piece of walnut, which I don't have yet, has been replaced with some pine of equal dimensions), and took a few pics to give you guys an idea on the grain positioning.
Anywho, I traced the body shape onto some lexan, put it over the body blank (only the center piece of walnut, which I don't have yet, has been replaced with some pine of equal dimensions), and took a few pics to give you guys an idea on the grain positioning.
OMG, that top's going to be hot man! I'd love to check that baby out when it's done (I'm about 45ish minutes north of you in Lawrence Co, TN).
Actually, what you see in the photo is going to be covered up by a heavily-figured birdseye maple or myrtle top.beav2k2 said:
It's sacrilege, I know.
Anywho, I'm about to confirm the order for the neck woods.
I already have a neck blank glued up and ready to carve for this bass, but I tried using my router to cut out the wenge (to replace it with ebony). This was long before I bought the jigsaw (which is what I used to cut the wenge from the body blank), so long story short, I can't use the blank. It's not TOO bad, really. I could probably clean up the routes and put some graphite reinforcements in there. It's still a solid, useable neck blank, but the craftsmanship doesn't meet my high standards.
I didn't order the top since I'm still not entirely sure about the birdseye maple. However, I do have some highly-figured birdseye maple and claro walnut neck and body woods on the way.
I just got the UPS shipment e-mail from Gallery. I ordered some HIGH FIGURE birdseye maple and claro walnut for the neck, as well as the claro walnut center body laminate (to replace the one I screwed up). Haven't been able to make much progress between work, school, and the two other builds (double-cut for the studio, and a 24"-scale travel bass) I've got going. I'm working upwards of 26 hours a week while taking full-time classes. I'm worn out. Fortunately, I'll have 2 weeks off for Christmas, which is being spent in Lake Tahoe. It's a Joiner family Christmas tradition thing that we do every other year. I hope to finish the travel bass before then.
I got the new neck woods (except for the ebony laminates, which I've had since April) and center walnut body laminate on Tuesday. Last night, a little after 8:00, I started gluing the body together. I let that set overnight and started smoothing out the front and back today, after work. Tomorrow, I'll start gluing the neck, and then finish sanding the body while while it's in the clamps.
Speaking of clamps, here's a review of some Bessy clamps I got last night.
Several months ago, I bought a Columbian 15-piece set which included two 18" and two 12" ratcheting, and two 10" and two 6" non-ratcheting bar clamps, along with various spring clamps. It was a nice kit, with big 1 1/2" ergonomic nylon handles. The heads were painted (and have since chipped a bit), and the head on one 6" clamp came off (broken pin that I have been too lazy to replace). This is the only downside so far. Regardless, they're quality clamps, so I thought I'd buy another set. Besides, I didn't think the two 18" clamps I already had would be enough, so I went to Lowe's to get another of these 15-piece kits. It turns out that they replaced the Columbian set with a Bessy set, which included two 18 and 12" non-ratcheting bar clamps, and the 10" and 6" bar clamps were replaced with C-clamps (which I don't particularly care for). For that reason, I was forced to get two individual 24" ratcheting bar clamps (from Bessy), which cost me $28 in all.
First impressions -- I can't stand the handles, which are made from 3/4" painted wood dowels. They're hard to grip and I'm affraid that I'll break them, compared to the Columbian handles mentioned earlier. I do like the black oxide-like finish on the clamp heads, though. But that's really the only thing. All that aside, they function just fine, so I can't complain too much. Nonetheless, I liked the older Columbian set better. Woodcraft has them on sale, so I'll probably buy one.
Until then, here are some photos from last night's work.
Speaking of clamps, here's a review of some Bessy clamps I got last night.
Several months ago, I bought a Columbian 15-piece set which included two 18" and two 12" ratcheting, and two 10" and two 6" non-ratcheting bar clamps, along with various spring clamps. It was a nice kit, with big 1 1/2" ergonomic nylon handles. The heads were painted (and have since chipped a bit), and the head on one 6" clamp came off (broken pin that I have been too lazy to replace). This is the only downside so far. Regardless, they're quality clamps, so I thought I'd buy another set. Besides, I didn't think the two 18" clamps I already had would be enough, so I went to Lowe's to get another of these 15-piece kits. It turns out that they replaced the Columbian set with a Bessy set, which included two 18 and 12" non-ratcheting bar clamps, and the 10" and 6" bar clamps were replaced with C-clamps (which I don't particularly care for). For that reason, I was forced to get two individual 24" ratcheting bar clamps (from Bessy), which cost me $28 in all.
First impressions -- I can't stand the handles, which are made from 3/4" painted wood dowels. They're hard to grip and I'm affraid that I'll break them, compared to the Columbian handles mentioned earlier. I do like the black oxide-like finish on the clamp heads, though. But that's really the only thing. All that aside, they function just fine, so I can't complain too much. Nonetheless, I liked the older Columbian set better. Woodcraft has them on sale, so I'll probably buy one.
Until then, here are some photos from last night's work.
Started gluing the neck together today. I got the left half glued before work this afternoon, and I did the right half just a few minutes ago. I'll let that sit overnight and glue the center strip of walnut.
I also smoothed out the body with the hand plane. I got some tear-out in the maple (the dark patches in the maple in the photos) when planing the high spots, but those spots are still raised a bit and should go away with the final sanding.
And then I took a few photos, which I've uploaded here.
I also smoothed out the body with the hand plane. I got some tear-out in the maple (the dark patches in the maple in the photos) when planing the high spots, but those spots are still raised a bit and should go away with the final sanding.
And then I took a few photos, which I've uploaded here.
