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Kala UBass Megathread, Part 2

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#781
thewarr said:
Hi all Ubasser's. I have read through EVERY post untill page 25 part 2... I recently got my HOG fretless.. signed up for this board and immediately restrung my A and D string as there were WAY too many windings! im glad to hear that there is alot of support from the community and from kala! I just wanted to know as well, does anyone know where i can get TG's in Canada? when i ordered my 'hog i bought 2 extra sets of stock strings not knowing about the TG's.
Click to expand...

The U.S. office probably ships to Canada:

aquila strings aquila nylgut strings aquila ukulele strings viol strings violin strings

You can also try juststrings.com:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#783
Played a fretted UBass through an Ampeg PF 350 at the music store tonight. A lot of fun although I can't get used to the strings... too grippy when I try to slide or vibrato, too slippery for bends. First section of Classical Thump got the best laugh.
 
#784
TimWatson said:
I just PM'd someone who would probably know. I'll post back when I get an answer. I like the SnapJack cable. either on or off. No turning the volume down. That will be taken care of via my pedals or I'll use my solid body. But if you all get good results I'll probably spring for one.
Click to expand...

Tim, thanks for PM'ing me. Admittedly, I haven't followed the use of piezo pickups on the bass guitar side, but I think the electronic issues are probably the same as for upright bass pickups.

A piezo pickup actually has an impedance that varies with frequency, because it is electrically similar to a capacitor in series with a voltage source. It has to plug into a preamp or amplifier with high input impedance so that the pickup isn't loaded down at the lowest frequencies. That would suggest using the 500k control.

On the other hand, when the 500k control is at its midpoint (the worst case), it has a 125k output impedance, and if you consider a 20 foot cable with 40 pF of capacitance per foot (typical stuff), you will lose the high frequencies starting at around:

1/2/pi/125k/800p = 1591 Hz. So, the control plus signal cable will kill some of your highs. A regular magnetic pickup with a 500k control will do the same thing.

You could minimize this by using the shortest possible cable that you can get away with on stage.

This is just the general problem with putting a passive volume control on a piezo. Notwithstanding the hassle of changing batteries, a preamp in the bass would solve this problem. It needn't be complex. I have a DIY friendly design at my website for a "bare bones bass preamp" that might just do the trick here.

Note: Since I'm relatively new to this particular subforum, I should mention that I have a commercial interest in all of this stuff.
 
#786
SBassman said:
fdeck - thanks for the post.

Note that with this bass, the signal seems so hot and bright that - losing some of the highs would be a Good thing for some of us.
Click to expand...

Fdeck,
Thank you for posting.
I am familiar with your HPF-Pre and I love it. Personally I use my hollow primarily in place of an upright so I am used to letting my fingers do the volume changes.

SBassman, I thought the same thing: a natural highs roll off would do me well. I do that anyway. Sounds like that cable would almost act like a simultaneous volume+tone roll off control. Interesting. I would be interested to hear a more thorough review of anyone who springs for this cable.
 
#788
I did some experiments tonight and discovered that my FEA Dual Band Distortion works very well with my U-Bass. With the drive dialed back so the signal isn't distorted, not only does the DBD tame the piezo very well, but it gives the signal a very nice sound. My Behringer ADI21 may have just met its match.

Thus far, I've used as a "preamp":
1. Behringer BEQ700 bass eq
2. Behringer ADI21
3. Fishman BII
4. Barber Linden EQ
5. FEA Dual Band Distortion

Well, and my Behringer Bass V-Amp Pro...but that rack unit doesn't travel.
 
#789
well there was a problem with my tuners on my spruce top and at kala they were happy to help and send my new tuners i even said im very excited to play send them express and Ill pay for the shipping. well Im still waiting .. coming on over a week and havent heard back or received the tuners... hmm from everything ive read i think this is probably a rarity as most have received fast responses and service. hope something happens soon i really want to play this little beauty!
 
#794
fdeck said:
Tim, thanks for PM'ing me. Admittedly, I haven't followed the use of piezo pickups on the bass guitar side, but I think the electronic issues are probably the same as for upright bass pickups.

A piezo pickup actually has an impedance that varies with frequency, because it is electrically similar to a capacitor in series with a voltage source. It has to plug into a preamp or amplifier with high input impedance so that the pickup isn't loaded down at the lowest frequencies. That would suggest using the 500k control.

On the other hand, when the 500k control is at its midpoint (the worst case), it has a 125k output impedance, and if you consider a 20 foot cable with 40 pF of capacitance per foot (typical stuff), you will lose the high frequencies starting at around:

1/2/pi/125k/800p = 1591 Hz. So, the control plus signal cable will kill some of your highs. A regular magnetic pickup with a 500k control will do the same thing.

You could minimize this by using the shortest possible cable that you can get away with on stage.

This is just the general problem with putting a passive volume control on a piezo. Notwithstanding the hassle of changing batteries, a preamp in the bass would solve this problem. It needn't be complex. I have a DIY friendly design at my website for a "bare bones bass preamp" that might just do the trick here.

Note: Since I'm relatively new to this particular subforum, I should mention that I have a commercial interest in all of this stuff.
Click to expand...

5 Meg Ohm potentiometer with a 330 pF cap wired across ? (nothing to do with the K&K) Actually, it seems to me that a high value pot alone may work since the bass has very little higher frequencies. The treble bleed cap might not be necessary.
 
#795
Sounds to me like a new cottage industry for the U-Bass is forming. Place a box with fits a 9v battery and simple volume knob that works with the piezo's impedance so that it can more easily plug into any proceeding pedal and give a close-by volume knob.
 
#796
Chad,
I tried my sprucetop U-BASS last night at practice with the Sansamp Paradriver DI as a pre. I thought it sounded good, and let me add a little grind for certain songs.

Then, just on a whim, I put it thru my MXR envelope filter, which I thought didn't really do anything for me, but I thought it would be a fun experiment.

Just sharin'
 
#797
I have used as a Pre for the ubass:

Sansamp BDDI
fdeck
Tech21 VTBass
MXR bass preamp pedal
L. R. Baggs para acoustic DI
Radial Tonebone PZ-Pre

All but the Baggs are going up for sale this week. The VT only because I have a VT deluxe headed my way.

The VT and the Baggs can go into anything and make all my instruments sound better. Those 2 make all the others pale in comparison
 
#798
My train is similar Tim. My standard set-up is bass --> VTBass Dlx --> Sonic Research Turbo Tuner --> Empress Parametric EQ --> amp --> cabinet. This works with my entire stable including my Kala Hog. The VT is first because I usually utilize two basses in a set and it makes changing out quick and efficient with two inputs.
 
#799
For simplicity, I plan on keeping the ADI21 around for when just that one pedal will fit the stage. In theory, it can run on a 9v battery, so could mod it to wear off of my belt.
 
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