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Kala UBass Megathread, Part 4
- Thread starter smperry
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Sorry for my ignorance... can you explain "passive roll off"?
The thing the PlatPro does VERY well is get rid of finger noise on the UBass. What about the F-Deck?
Te F-Deck is uncolored. The filter rolls off unwanted sub bass frequencies.
EQ's, both shelving and graphic notch type all leave a little to be desired when rolling highs off this beast. A sloped type tone works best for that IME. After the F-Deck, I have found a passive tone via a .100 or .118 uF cap does very well to reduce finger noise.
I have contacted Max at [sfx] about building a modular active tone circuit to implement. His "ultra-tone" circuit like on his "Big Bad Bass" pedal has a great high roll off with low end shelving bump when turned down. And he can implement a mid filter in that circuit. I asked about a 3-way mid control: flat, cut at 1k, 300hz boost. That would further cut quack or boost woodiness.
EQ's, both shelving and graphic notch type all leave a little to be desired when rolling highs off this beast. A sloped type tone works best for that IME. After the F-Deck, I have found a passive tone via a .100 or .118 uF cap does very well to reduce finger noise.
I have contacted Max at [sfx] about building a modular active tone circuit to implement. His "ultra-tone" circuit like on his "Big Bad Bass" pedal has a great high roll off with low end shelving bump when turned down. And he can implement a mid filter in that circuit. I asked about a 3-way mid control: flat, cut at 1k, 300hz boost. That would further cut quack or boost woodiness.
After trying a Reussenzehn Bass Max Tube Pre, too much highs and tube compression...
the MXR 10 band EQ, too much knobs killing the vivid sound character...
and the sfx Red Dragon, emphazising the mids...
I ended with Cali4 - Stellartone Tonestyler (passiv, 15 different resistor/capacitor combinations switchable) built in a passive DI-box - tc electronics BH 250 - Gallien Krueger MBX 112.
the MXR 10 band EQ, too much knobs killing the vivid sound character...
and the sfx Red Dragon, emphazising the mids...
I ended with Cali4 - Stellartone Tonestyler (passiv, 15 different resistor/capacitor combinations switchable) built in a passive DI-box - tc electronics BH 250 - Gallien Krueger MBX 112.
bluecab said:
Interesting. Which cap settings are your favorite? Do you know the values?
And, I have found GK amps particularly tuned to compliment U-Bass tone. I just tend to have other issues with that brand.
Overall how do you like he Red Dragon? The standard micro, right?
I have played 2 times with my U-Bass over a GK MB150 amp.
Didn't work so well.
These amps just sound too mids-heavy and "electric". I found them not good for the acoustic U-Bass.
I play over QSC K8 / K10 active speakers which give a really beautiful, "acoustic" sound (albeit not as "punchy" as the GK).
Didn't work so well.
These amps just sound too mids-heavy and "electric". I found them not good for the acoustic U-Bass.
I play over QSC K8 / K10 active speakers which give a really beautiful, "acoustic" sound (albeit not as "punchy" as the GK).
I prefer setting 11 or 12, counted from start, which is bypass. Don't know the values. The darkest setting is really reggae-black or deepest motown. They mention only this cap value on their page...
I have the new tc BH 250 as amp, I checked the new GK MB 200 and disliked it 100%. Screaming highs, mids unconcrete and the low end sounds artificial. Both are digital, the GK sounds digital, the tc is better than my old Little Mark 250. GK seems to suit for slappers and modern steely sounds.
I liked the Red Dragon, but missed a tone control to cut some mids. A small and nice amount of overdrive can be easily added, but you pay with the loss of low end...
bluecab said:
interesting. That has not been my experience with that pedal. But I have only had customs with the ultra tone control. And I find the mids sweet and woody. Not offensive and clanky. At least not until you crank the drive way up.
The mids are fine indeed, just noticed that some low end got lost.
On the solid I cut off the highs about 80%.
But remember, I'm not a pro like you, just a seasoned living room warrior. My last session buddies kicked me after showing up with the Ubass several times, 'don't you play your REAL basses anymore'.
When I flipped the ubass over to put in the new strings, the saddle and this two little plastic strips popped out. Were they underneath the saddle? Should it be glued back in?
3234718 said:
Yes, put them back in under the pickup. No, do not glue them. Make sure there is no dust in there. Even contact is very important.
One is longer any thinner than the other. Do you know which goes in first? Some compressed air and them stacked under the pickup and that's it? Thanks much
When I changed the pickup on my UBass (bad pickup, Kala sent me a new one), I noticed there had been one of those strips under the saddle. I didn't notice until I found it on the floor AFTER I had already installed the saddle and already finished restringing. I only knew what it was because I looked at the shadow website, and saw two of them pictured with the saddle pickup.
Mine only had one, by the way. Everything seemed to be working fine, no intonation issues, no buzzing issues because the action was lower, etc., so I left it out. I still have it. But everything seems to be fine with out it.
Anyone have a good reason I should de-string to put it back under there?
Mine only had one, by the way. Everything seemed to be working fine, no intonation issues, no buzzing issues because the action was lower, etc., so I left it out. I still have it. But everything seems to be fine with out it.
Anyone have a good reason I should de-string to put it back under there?
I was thinking about leaving one out so the action would be lower but they put two in there so i putthem both back. I doubt there'd be much of a difference. Silver rumblers are awesome by the way. Seem to be about half has sticky as thunderguts.
Nah. If intonation is good, and action is good without any funky buzzing, leave it out.
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