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Double Bass Kay Bass Neck Repair

G

gbkaybass51

May 4, 2011
6
0
#1
Hey All,

My 51 Kay recently took a little spill and the neck came loose in the joint. An estimate of repair was $800 and not an option for me at this time. I'm going to have to attempt the repair myself and have already received the hide glue for the job. I'm at the point of removing the neck, but even though it's loose and will wiggle from side to side, it won't slide out of the joint. Which method is best to safely remove the neck? Heat, hot water, other liquid solution...? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Gary
 
#2
gbkaybass51 said:
Hey All,

My 51 Kay recently took a little spill and the neck came loose in the joint. An estimate of repair was $800 and not an option for me at this time. I'm going to have to attempt the repair myself and have already received the hide glue for the job. I'm at the point of removing the neck, but even though it's loose and will wiggle from side to side, it won't slide out of the joint. Which method is best to safely remove the neck? Heat, hot water, other liquid solution...? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Gary
Click to expand...

gbkay51 this is gbkay50 (not related).

Sorry about your bass. If it simply broke the glue line in the socket you are very lucky. Usually the Kay necks break and saves the glue. :crying:

If the neck wiggles freely it is past the break-the-glue stage. Kay used a dove tail joint, so it will not pull out in the toward-the-scroll direction. it must slide out toward the front. If you are pulling in the right direction and it is still trapped then there are other issues.

Look at this thread, scroll down to the first set of pictures Jake provided - a Key neck and socket.


http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f3/dovetail-joint-738814/

How is the button, is part of it still attached to the neck holding it in? If so I would try alcohol to dry out the glue line and a putty knife. Carefully of course. Any other damage? Pictures would help.

Gary
 
#3
Hey Gary,

I tried to post some pictures, but never was successful. I'll try again. The button is fully intact no longer attached to the neck. It does seem like it would just slide right out. I fear part of the wood in the joint may have broken providing a kind of "stop" preventing the neck from simply sliding out. Are you talking about using regular rubbing alcohol to dry out the glue line? I f there is a piece of wood obstructing the joint, how would I loosen that to get the neck off non-destructively? I really appreciate your advice! Thank you very much!

Gary DSC01747a.JPG

DSC01739a.JPG
 
#4
Well too bad the button is not holding the neck in. As you said there may be a part of the tendon still stuck to the block. Or possibly the tendon is hanging up on the front plate. Very hard to get to it at any rate. This is why it could cost big $$.

To see the Kay neck and mortice details:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] Click on the Kay 1950 bass link.

Look at the neck. The cheeks (sides) of the mortice are obscured all around (front and top by the neck and rear by the back plate) and you can not get a pallet knife or such in to help separate the neck from the body. BTW usually the Kay joint is only held by the button and the cheeks of the mortice, not the bottom. I doubt the joint is open or loose enough for water, steam, or alcohol to be effectively applied but you could try.

My approach would be -
Try applying moderate mechanical pressure toward the front to try to slide the neck out. This is not easily done. I would try clamps and levers etc. Don't break the neck toe by twisting.

Then if no good, sorry, you get into removing the back to gain access to the mortice.

Loosen the upper half of the back plate from the neck block and ribs with hot water or steam and a heated blunt-edged tool like a putty knife. Work from the button down.

Having gained enough access I would attempt to drive the neck straight forward with some moderate hammer force on a wood block on the end of the neck toe.

If no joy, apply hot water or steam and work a narrow, blunt pallet or putty knife (hot) into the mortice cheeks to dissolve the glue.

This is what I would do. Proceed at your own speed and risk.

Maybe a more experienced (real) luthier can offer better advice or a good trick.

gb
 
#5
Hey Gary,

Thanks so much for all the information! I'll progress with the more involved steps as I need. Do you think it's worth while to try to inject some hot water into the joint using a large syringe of some sort to loosen the glue line? I really want to avoid removing the back, if at all possible. Thanks.
 
#6
gbkaybass51 said:
Hey Gary,

Thanks so much for all the information! I'll progress with the more involved steps as I need. Do you think it's worth while to try to inject some hot water into the joint using a large syringe of some sort to loosen the glue line? I really want to avoid removing the back, if at all possible. Thanks.
Click to expand...

you do not want to use hot water , you want to use steam !
hot water is going to cause more problem .
 
#8
You can get at the joint from the front. The neck is probably held up by a splinter from the block, a long pallet knife that's been dipped in boiling water would be the best tool for the job. At the shop I work in, we use an old japanese saw blade that we've cut into a pallet knife shape. It is very long and very flexable and works great for something like this. The last Kay we had in the shop with this problem took a week of probing to get the neck out, so be patient. When you get the neck out, post some pics and I'll give you some options on how to get it back in.

Best of luck, Ben
 

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