Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Can anyone with a maple fretboard ExFactor chime in any opinions In terms of any tonal differences there may or may not be compared to ebony? I've been curious lately. I'd expect it to be a little brighter but not much? Do you prefer maple?
Don't you already own one of each color (with both fingerboard types ;-)?Stop posting this damn picture! its haunting me! ....To know now of its existence means I have to scour the planet to obtain it like ahabs white whale CURSE YOU!
Seriously though how sweet would it look between a blue burst and burgundy burst?
Phil did some really amazing stuff with design and color.
missing the man today.
I doubt there is a person who can tell the difference in sound on this hemisphere. The choice of strings will make more impact on the tone.
Dang! Collector's wet dream, that. Good for you buddy!!Thanks for the heads up on the T shirts. Thought I'd post a pic of my Ex-Factor, very proud of her. Phil made her for me back in '04. I have another red one I'd been playing since '86. This one has a figured maple neck/fretboard. The top is leftover '66 Fender Wildwood that Phil still had in his closet! Look closely, it has only one pickup. Perfectly balanced and sounds amazing. Usually run straight to house through a DI and FOH guys love it, many compliments.
Last edited:
Hmmm next comment for the forum to chew on.
Does anyone else feel like there should be just a wee bit more tolerance in the tuning wheels/gears or whatever word you use to reference them?
This must be the case on all of them because all of mine share the same syndrome..If I don't stretch them a little, the first spooling of a fresh string more often than not runs out of room on the wheel and I must release it then force the first "click" under initial tension then re spool the string until tuned.
Does anyone else feel like there should be just a wee bit more tolerance in the tuning wheels/gears or whatever word you use to reference them?
This must be the case on all of them because all of mine share the same syndrome..If I don't stretch them a little, the first spooling of a fresh string more often than not runs out of room on the wheel and I must release it then force the first "click" under initial tension then re spool the string until tuned.
I've owned my ExFactor since Dec. 1986 and here is my take on what you're experiencing.
I think it comes down to the string technology and improvements to string flexibility over the 3 decades I've owned my Kubicki. When I first bought my bass there was no need to stretch the strings and reset the wheel clasp. This was pretty standard with several different string manufacturers at the time.
Fast forward to today and I have to do the same as you for most string sets now. I don't consider it a problem as I break a lot fewer strings now than I did back in the 80's/90's which I attribute to better string technology. I just find strings nowadays have way more stretch than 30 years ago.
Cheers,
John
This is a profound post for many reasons. At first I attributed my issue to possibly because I was using a medium light string but the first two strings (in the particular set I was using) were the same gage as a standard set so that negated the hypothesis. It makes me want to invent a jig of sorts to pre load and/or stretch the strings prior to installation. It would save time and wear on the Bridge mechanism and my fingers.
.....and it's a good thing that up tuning is not popular. But yes, I had to reset my initial tension the other day as I ran out on a couple of strings.
Very true.
No issues at all on my Factor I keep in Eb though. Standard tuning takes that extra work time and care.
I used to have that tuning issue in the very beginning but now I just use 2 hands on the wheel to get that extra click...... also I leave the string off the saddle until I'm done clicking the wheel back....... btw I can't hear any difference in sound from my maple vs ebony boards.... but a slight difference in my rosewood board.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I (also) use my fingers to push the wheel until it clicks taut to start with - as cool as his 'tractor wheel' system is it's a bit archaic. (but in a good way) I can imagine someone riffing off this design with something more high-tech today.
Kubicki ExFactor -- Super Early Prototype | eBay
Just saw this early prototype ('85) Ex-Factor on eBay from a Kubicki collector. I haven't seen this particular iteration with what's referred to as the 'dog eared' control cover. (a outcrop for the barrel-jack area) Pretty cool. I could be wrong but the body looks more beveled, but unless I had two side by side it may be just the way it's lit/shot. If I had that kind off "expendable income"* I wouldn't hesitate to grab it.
*"expendable income"; see unicorns, UFO's, and affordable health programs...
Last edited:
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
Cool. I've seen a few prototype Factors (not in person) in which the neck pick up was pushed right up to the base. Apparently they had very (almost too hot) pre amps as well. Never seen that though.
Yeah I've tried all the methods for stringing and spooling up the strings you guys mentioned but always seen to get the same condition.. Perhaps it's the strings I've been using. I do realize and have observed that out of all the types I've tried they are the stretchiest. Usually DR Sunbeams or Pure Blues. It's not any major issue. It's just something that could be avoided if there was a little more tolerance in the wheels. Oh well. Carry on.
Yeah I've tried all the methods for stringing and spooling up the strings you guys mentioned but always seen to get the same condition.. Perhaps it's the strings I've been using. I do realize and have observed that out of all the types I've tried they are the stretchiest. Usually DR Sunbeams or Pure Blues. It's not any major issue. It's just something that could be avoided if there was a little more tolerance in the wheels. Oh well. Carry on.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I did have Phil replace one of my wheels as it slipped no matter what I did - anything wears out with use. I had an '86 Ex-Factor (18v) and always felt the pre was too hot. If you forgot and clicked from passive to active mid song it would practically blow the drivers. I much prefer the 9v system personally - plenty of juice to spare. My favorite blend of active/passive user friendly systems is the G&L L-2000 - I never use passive setting on my Factor but switch-up w/o issues on the L-2000.
All my Factors I'm happy to say are in excellent condition in terms of the bridge mechanisms.. nothing's really worn. I hear yah loud and clear (pun intended) about switching back and forth from passive to active or vice versa. Especially depending on the position of the active/passive switch on my Mesa head. I've actually really been enjoying the the passive settings lately. Since I've been incorporating more effects into the chain, I've found a passive signal way smoother and quieter. I'm definitely going to be dusting off my 9V soon. I'm thinking of trying to locate a fretless neck for it.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I bought a new lined fretless neck from Phil in '94 shortly after I got my (very used) '86. Phil cleaned up the fretted one for me for a nominal charge. (ebony fretboard had divots that he filled in) The fretless neck is currently on my Factorbird and the fretted neck went on another Factor since sold. I wish I had both but couldn't possibly afford the very rare Ex-Factor neck if one ever comes up for sale. I sold a re-leveled (by Phil) fretless neck over 10 yrs ago for $500 - I can't imagine what one would go for now.
I built the Factorbird (3 piece Koa- to '64 T-bird specs w/ergo modifications) around 2000 and it's gone through a few pu/electronics alterations until settling on the L-2000 system. It's currently strung B/E/A/D --- It goes to low A w/the capo open, and no T-bird neck dive!
Dude... I've seen it posted somewhere here before and it it sooo worthy of being seen again. drool Bad ass..
I might have a source for the neck, or at least a good shot at it. Glad this thread got moving again.
Edit: BTW there's a fretless 90 on EBay now, same color & year of mine for 3K. Uh uh no thanks. But cool to look at anyway.
I might have a source for the neck, or at least a good shot at it. Glad this thread got moving again.
Edit: BTW there's a fretless 90 on EBay now, same color & year of mine for 3K. Uh uh no thanks. But cool to look at anyway.
Last edited:
Well well well... check out this bunch
Kubicki ExFactor & Factor Bass -- 5 Factory Graphic Set !! | eBay
Got to wonder what the story is with this "deal-mill" seller and the spate of high-profile kubickis he's put on eBay lately. Just wondering as a fan. I'd be more interested in a natural wood model from the later years though.
Kubicki ExFactor & Factor Bass -- 5 Factory Graphic Set !! | eBay
Got to wonder what the story is with this "deal-mill" seller and the spate of high-profile kubickis he's put on eBay lately. Just wondering as a fan. I'd be more interested in a natural wood model from the later years though.
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
yah, saw that - sooo 80's
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
Wasn't there a rule banning pictures of the 'butt bass' on TB years ago? I recognise the butt bass and the boobs bass, as well as the Raiders bass. The one with the girls and the line matrix is really cool too.
