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La Bella - Change thumpy dead E string to a different brand?

Tom "T-Bone" Wolk used flats on his uppers and rounds on his E or E and A as well. There are several online outfits that sell single strings. You could try the aforementioned Ernie Ball Cobalt Flats or EB regular flats if you want less highs. GHs Pressurewounds if you want more highs, Dunlop flats for less. The Dunlops would be the safest bet as they would still have this, but not like the Labellas. We are talking about Deep Talk'n Flats, no?
 
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I'm thinking if all the strings are going to become dull and thumpy, I need to give up on them altogether because it's not the sound I'm going for. I wanted to keep the sound of the 3 "good" strings in the set but I'm starting to think about the Chromes. Some people say they can be a bit hollow and clanky though. Not sure how many grains of salt to take that with since they are so popular.

The Ernie Ball Group III flatwounds seem fairly promising too, if I go by what I've heard from some YouTube videos. Just doesn't seem like they are made in medium scale for the Mustang string-through type. Anyone have experience with cutting longer strings down to size? I'm thinking this sound may be more of what I'm going for as I play mainly rock music.
I think Chromes sound hollow, and I also agree that they are clanky. I’ve never been able to stomach them for long.

You can cut long scale down to medium easily. I have cut down Fender flats (on my Gibson right now and going strong), Roto 77s, and Fender Studio Bass flats. I’ve never had a problem with those sets. I tried cutting down Gold Alloy LaBellas. It broke apart quick. It all has to do with the flexibility of the string. All the sets I’ve had success with have been flexible. La Bellas are not at all flexible. At this point, I feel like I can judge whether a flat will break at the post by simply dangling it a bit to test its flexibility.
 
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I got myself a set of La Bella strings for my Mustang string-thru bass (the set made for Mustangs) a few months ago after reading glowing reviews of them. But I quickly realized that the E wasn’t the same as the other 3 strings. It just sounded like a clumsy thud next to the other 3 which sang beautifully. I emailed La Bella and asked if they could send a replacement. Sent them a recording showing the difference between the strings. They said it would probably even out over time, but still agreed to send me a replacement.

I installed the replacement E and I’ve been playing it for months and it’s all still the same. Dead thumpy E and singing A D and G strings. I guess that’s just how it is. I tried pressing down in the bridge and nut to reinforce the “witness points” that I’ve read about but it hasn’t helped at all. Also tried adjusting my pickup height. No fix.

I’ve read a lot about how La Bella strings are loved by many but with the acceptance of its thumpy dead E string. I wish I could be happy with it and move on, but a lot of my songs use the E string and it awkwardly changes the tonal character and doesn’t sustain well at all. I’ve had to set aside my favorite bass for this reason, but I’m determined to find a solution since I love the A D and G strings. Does anyone have a recommendation for replacing just the E so that everything will blend well? Or do I just have to take another $40+ roll of the dice with a different brand (plus extra shipping because I’m in Thailand and no one sells medium scale strings)?

Really bummed that one string can ruin an otherwise perfect set.. :/

Thanks in advance for any tips or ideas.

While it's always possible to get a dud string, if you're sure the E string is seated properly; isn't twisted (which, with a string thru bass, is quite easy to get); isn't hanging up in the nut slot; and you've set your witness points? Then, I have some good news - maybe...
It is very common, with almost all new flat wounds, to have a nice, bright sounding A, D, and G string; and a dull/dead sounding E string. I have no idea why, but - it seems to be more the rule, than the exception. However... with use ( how much varies with the brand), the E string - provided it's not a dud; twisted, etc. - will gradually brighten up. And the other strings will gradually lose the brightness, and darken up. When they all finally meet in the middle? They've broken in at last, and you can enjoy the flat wound goodness for a long time. But, you need to break them in. With some flats, it doesn't take very long; with others, it can seem to take forever. Or, if you just can't wait? You can slather hand cream all over them, and hope for the best. Personally? My World Tour has been postponed indefinitely, so I just break new flats in the old fashioned way...:whistle:
 
I am a regular LaBella user on a variety of basses, mostly short scale. Once I had a set where the A, D & G seemed almost as bright as rounds, while the E was dead as a doornail - this was on a Gibson Melody Maker with the good ol' mudbucker so I didn't really mind since it didn't put out any treble anyway lol.

I have the same string gauge on my Les Paul Triumph & Guild M-85 fretless, without the weird low E.

I won a set of the .045-.105 long scale set on Instagram and put them on my Fender Duck Dunn Signature - definitely notice the E feels and sounds different. I kind of wondered if I might have messed them up when putting them on, or maybe this is how they're supposed to be? I need to experiment more, plus I think I'm going to order a lighter single E.
 
Just wanted to share my findings for anyone who sees this thread in the future. I ordered a set of Ernie Ball Group III flatwounds and I swapped out the dull La Bella E string. At first, it sounded terrible with the new string because it was new and clanky/zingy, but I persisted with playing and wearing in the Ernie Ball string. I'm happy to report that it's blending in well and the sustain and clarity is much much better. Knowing what I know now, I would have just bought the Ernie Ball strings and skipped La Bellas. I'm sure the La Bella strings have their place in Motown stuff with undefined tubby bass, but I think the Ernie Ball strings have a more well-rounded application to different genres. Hope that helps someone. :)
 
I've had the same experience now with two sets of LaBella Deep Talkin' Flats. The first set had a low E string that was a bit dead compared to the other three, but it worked okay for most purposes. The second set, however, had a low E string that seemed, like some other people have said, to be a completely different kind of string. Three consistently lively strings and one completely dead. And the sad part is, I really like how the lively strings sound.

I wish I'd read up more before I ordered them, but the Deep Talkin' Flats are such legendary strings I never suspected they had a well-known and documented problem like that. Two sets of LaBellas makes it a relatively expensive lesson to learn. But, I've got a set of GHS flats now to try out, and after reading this thread I may also try a set of Ernie Balls. I've had Chromes in the past and they are good strings but they are not as thumpy as the LaBellas (even the livelier ones) and that is what I was going for with the flats. I play rounds on most of my basses but I like the idea of having an old Precision with flats for that particular distinctive sound.
 
As I've said before; this is not really a "problem". Most flat wound strings are this way out of the package; a dull/dead sounding E string, and bright A,D, & G strings. This is just how they are. Why? I don't know - and I don't think anybody else does, either. Unless the E string is twisted, or really is a dud string; as it breaks in, it will brighten up. And, as the other strings break in, they will loose their brightness. When they all meet in the middle? That's how you know that they're broken in, and that's where they will stay - for a long time. The "dead" E/"bright" ADG thing is normal for flats. Yes, some brands are worse than others, but.. this is why you have to have some patience, and play the snot out of them - to even them out. Some flats are almost broken in right out of the package; some of them take a donkey's age to break in. And, no, I don't really know why that is, either... I have 23 basses, and all but 6 of them wear flats; all different brands and gauges. And, every single set of flats I've put on a bass was this way. And, once they were broken in? They sound just fine. But, you have to break them in. Or, do like JimmyM does, and slather Eucerin hand cream all over them; which, he says, breaks them in right away, without playing the bejeezus out of them..:whistle:
 
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^^I just want to second this. I’ve bought about 30 sets of La Bella DTFs over the years. They are very consistent in their quality, and the E is always gonna be dead when compared to the A/D/G. I strung up some .043s on my ‘51 build, and the G is, surprisingly, a dead one. I’m not the least bit concerned. In fact, it’s usually the last to deaden so I consider it a win...a more even set sooner rather than later.

Pyramids are another brand that have a notoriously dead E. Beautiful strings once set, especially on a Hofner.
 
You guys may be right about the strings evening out in some sets, but it’s hard to believe the E gets any brighter or lively over time in the ones I had. I played like crazy for weeks and still had the same sounding strings (2 different ones). To each their own, but it didn’t sound good enough to tolerate for a longer period of time. The Ernie Ball group III swap worked well for me, though if I listen very carefully I can hear a tiny difference. Still, that tiny difference is a much better compromise than the La Bella E. That thing (and again, I patiently worked with 2 of them) had no definition. This was on a Mustang string-through bass so the fat thumpy nature of the short scale could also play a role in all that. Bottom line: do whatever works for you, but I think it has a lot to do with one’s taste and possibly also the different kinds of basses and how the strings sit on them.
 
You guys may be right about the strings evening out in some sets, but it’s hard to believe the E gets any brighter or lively over time in the ones I had. I played like crazy for weeks and still had the same sounding strings (2 different ones). To each their own, but it didn’t sound good enough to tolerate for a longer period of time. The Ernie Ball group III swap worked well for me, though if I listen very carefully I can hear a tiny difference. Still, that tiny difference is a much better compromise than the La Bella E. That thing (and again, I patiently worked with 2 of them) had no definition. This was on a Mustang string-through bass so the fat thumpy nature of the short scale could also play a role in all that. Bottom line: do whatever works for you, but I think it has a lot to do with one’s taste and possibly also the different kinds of basses and how the strings sit on them.
I'm curious how the EB E-string feels alongside the Labella set. I'm a fan of both sets, but never tried them both at the same time. I've always felt the EB set was a little softer on the fingers - what do you think? Soundwise, I find the EB's a little brighter, so I can see how the combo works for your issue. Are their relative volume levels about the same?
I should add that I've never been especially troubled by a Labella E-string, though I believe the sound of every E-string is a bit unique vs. A, D & G, even for roundwound strings.
 
The issue is finding a reasonably priced E-string replacement as a single string. By definition, due to the increased diameter and the accompanying loss of flexibility, most flatwound E strings will go thump after awhile. In addition to what I posted above about the EB regular flatwound (NOT cobalt), GHS now offers their Precision Flats in a medium length, which might fit a string-through Mustang, including a 95 E string which even though light by comparison might retain flexibility and tone.
 
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I'm curious how the EB E-string feels alongside the Labella set. I'm a fan of both sets, but never tried them both at the same time. I've always felt the EB set was a little softer on the fingers - what do you think? Soundwise, I find the EB's a little brighter, so I can see how the combo works for your issue. Are their relative volume levels about the same?
I should add that I've never been especially troubled by a Labella E-string, though I believe the sound of every E-string is a bit unique vs. A, D & G, even for roundwound strings.

There is a slight volume and tension difference. I find that I favor my A, D, and G strings more when I play, but I don’t shy away from my E string as much as I did before. The EB E string doesn’t sing as wonderfully as the La Bellas but it doesn’t make me cringe either. The breaking-in period wasn’t pleasant though. When I first put it on, I thought I had definitely wasted my money. It sounded tinny and weird. After a few days, I felt like it was a good call. Words can’t paint the picture well enough so maybe I’ll make a recording soon if anyone cares. Seems like the bass string journey is one that no one can shortcut easily, but I would love to help anyone who wants to find the sound they’re after, if I can.
 
Seems like the bass string journey is one that no one can shortcut easily....
Word. When I find a set I like, I stock up on multiple sets and extra E strings, because string companies are so prone to discontinuing sets because bean counters overrule player reps if the profit margin is not there. I understand that companies have to make money, but string companies deal in the performing arts, not just corporate widget profits, and need to look more long term to loyal customers. OK, my rant for the day.
 
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The issue is finding a reasonably priced E-string replacement as a single string. By definition, due to the increased diameter and the accompanying loss of flexibility, most flatwound E strings will go thump after awhile. I don't know if Ernie Ball makes their flats in a medium length, but when I played Fender 9050CL flats, and the E string started to go thumpy, I replaced it with an EB, which has a similar tone, though not quite as growly as the Fender, and the EB E string coordinated very well with well seated Fender 9050 ADG. Also, GHS now offers their Precision Flats in a medium length, which might fit a string-through Mustang, including a 95 E string which even though light by comparison might retain flexibility and tone.

Thanks for the insight on that. EB doesn’t make medium length (yet?) on the Group III flats but I assumed from watching a video of another Mustang bass player that the standard length could be cut down to size. Cutting a string shorter than the wrapped portion makes me feel uncomfortable, but it worked for me for this set. I just advise anyone to get a sharp 90 degree+ bend on the string before cutting it to secure the core, just in case, or it could ruin it.

I appreciate your info on the GHS flats too, by the way. :)
 
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GHS now offers their Precision Flats in a medium length, which might fit a string-through Mustang, including a 95 E string which even though light by comparison might retain flexibility and tone.

Here's one of the observations I've made through my string journey...regarding flats in particular...during the last few years.

As a former "balanced tension enthusiast", I used to swear by 45-60-80-105 as my go-to set of gauges. That's why I was enthused about the Fender 9050CL (45-60-80-105!) at the time, and wished every string manufacturer would offer a set just like that.

Now, here's the thing... "Balanced tension" doesn't always guarantee "balanced tone", especially when it comes to flats as the dreaded TES (Thuddy E Syndrome) shows its ugly face from time to time.

This whole thing gave me an idea... What if I could combine G and D with lighter A and E? And you know what, the GHS Precision Flats gave me a perfect opportunity for some experimenting as their light set combines the 45-60 with 75-95 instead of 80-105. What I discovered was that 45-60-75-95, while they're not the best-balanced tension-wise, provided a much better balance in terms of TONE. The 95E was punchy and focused with good definition without the ill effect of TES - at least on my Am Std P bass.

As I said, just a personal observation and food for thought...
 
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GHS now offers their Precision Flats in a medium length, which might fit a string-through Mustang...

GHS "short scale" is 32.75" in winding length (ball end to silk), which is 0.75" longer than most "short scale" at 32".
GHS "medium scale" is 35.5" in winding length (ball end to silk), which is 1.5" longer than most "medium scale" at 34".

Just wondering if 32.75" might be long enough to fit a thru-body Mustang?
 
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Now, here's the thing... "Balanced tension" doesn't always guarantee "balanced tone", especially when it comes to flats as the dreaded TES (Thuddy E Syndrome) shows its ugly face from time to time.
Exactly. That is why early Fender sets had a 50 G string and a tight D string, for tone and volume balance, but had lighter A and especially E strings, to retain flexibility and tonal consistency, than the numbers might indicate. It is a limitation of string technology. Fortunately, companies like GHS and D'Addario are revisiting this issue because we bass players are a picky lot: we want consistency of all three across the fret board: tone, volume and feel. Also, basses are different, with generally flatter fingerboards than historical examples. That is why the D string is particularly tight on "traditional" sets: to get more mass to interact better with the magnetic field of a flat pickup, like a J-pickup, with an instrument that had a 7 1/4 crown radius. When set up, the D string was significantly farther away from the pickup than the others. Since the magnetic output varies as the square of the distance from the string to the pickup, this made sense in the early 60's. But with basses, especially 5-ers, which have a significantly flatter crown radius, say, 14-16 inches, this is not the issue it used to be. But in spite of that, very few strings manufacturers, like GHS and D'Addario, have actually taken steps to address the issue. Jon Moody of GHS goes on about how they have changed the construction of their E strings to attempt to regain the tonal consistency, and I can tell you from playing both gauges of the new Balanced Pure Nickels that they have succeded, and are applying that technology to my favorite strings for my 4002, the Progressives 2.0, which I am patiently awaiting. Rotosound very quietly did that in the early 2000's with their famous Swingbass strings, especially the E strings, essentially double wrapping them to retain flexibility and the low-end edge. They did this about the time I had a show gig in Branson and talked to the Rotosound rep about sending me some strings to get some TV exposure, and we discussed this very issue: tapings for the shows were over a period of days, with cuts and edits, and I had to have continuity of tone and could not afford an E string to die prematurely. The rep delivered in spades.

The whole discussion of the post about sets that have a flatwound G and rounds on an E is all about the same issue: tonal consistency. The problem is that the wound E string is prone to collect finger gunk, prematurely killing the string, so the experiment does not get a player that far. Thomastik-Infeld, on their jazz flats guitar strings, seem to have weird gauges, until you cut open an E string and see it is double wrapped with a fine gauge round first winding and then the flat narrow ribbon second winding so the E string stays flexible and tonally consistent. That is a significant technology challenge: to have the flat ribbon as the outer wind but still retain consistency of windings and not lose the reason for having the double wrap in the first place. Some companies chamfer the edges of the flat ribbon as it is wound on the string, but that can create a rough feel to the string which is the opposite of why some players play flats, especially something like the mirror smooth finish of D'Addario Chromes.

All these reasons are why Fender 9050's are still my favorite flats, although I don't have a gig right now to use them to advantage, and even if I have to replace the E string every so often with an EB regular steel flat.
 
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GHS "short scale" is 32.75" in winding length (ball end to silk), which is 0.75" longer than most "short scale" at 32".
GHS "medium scale" is 35.5" in winding length (ball end to silk), which is 1.5" longer than most "medium scale" at 34".

Just wondering if 32.75" might be long enough to fit a thru-body Mustang?
The way to find out is to take an E string you already have, tune it to pitch, mark where it reaches the nut, mark the back of the nut, and mark where it reaches the center of the E-tuner string post. Ideally, a string needs to have a long enough speaking wrap to clear the back edge of the nut so it will seat and tune properly, but then taper down just before or at the centerline of the E string tuner post so only the leader wraps the post, lessening any risk of breakage. Obviously, the E string is the issue, because the rest of the tuners are far enough above the nut, and the strings are lesser diameter, so it doesn't matter.
 
In the past, I never stretched my strings- and with most sets I still don’t give more than a few light tugs when settling my strings in & going through initial setup.

But when I’ve encountered clunky, sluggish E strings (La Bella 1954, La Bella FS) I’ve given them some extra stretching and found that it helps with definition significantly.

Have you guys with dead E strings tried this?
 

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