Here's what I'm noticing. The bridge volume is wack. It makes no sound at 100% on, but turn it down some and it works.
That sounds like a bad pot.
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Here's what I'm noticing. The bridge volume is wack. It makes no sound at 100% on, but turn it down some and it works.
Well, junk. My soldering experiment didn't exactly work.
Here's what I'm noticing. The bridge volume is wack. It makes no sound at 100% on, but turn it down some and it works.
Did I burn it out? Or maybe it's a wiring / ground issue? I should probably head over to the proper forum, but I like you guys better![]()
That sounds like a bad pot.
+1
A wiring ground issue is more like it works or doesn't.
Just a quick mention, make sure your soldering iron is good and hot when soldering grounds to the case of the pot, you want to get in make a good solid connection and get out. I've ruined a few with extended heating and reheating because the iron wasn't hot enough.
I use a Weller WLC100 40-Watt that lets me control the temp and set it at 4 which works great.
Sweet! These are great.
I want one, but I know I won't play it enough to jstify a US. Maybe they'll make a Skyline someday.
Nice Markus! The hobos can sleep easy where that one's concerned.
got this baby restrung with Dunlop nickels and set up today. Playing and sounding like the beast she is.
![]()
Lee, is it just V/T V/T? I think that I have a wiring diagram that Fred gave me when I bought my darkstars for this setup. I will dig through some junk and see if I still have it, but from what I recall you have to wire them a little different.
In other news, I performed the Lakland recommended neck treatment with orange oil and scotch brite pad on the Ice Blue JO. It really makes a difference, the neck feels even better than it did before. I would definitely recommend doing it if you have had your bass a while.
Yep! That would be great, if you had one. Looking at my bass vs the same with Barts (I still have one at home) and it seemed different. That being said, I don't know why it would be. DS's are just ...essentially single coils, yea?
I believe the toggle is a dark switch, cutting highs
I believe the toggle is a dark switch, cutting highs
Yeah, Lakland's website says it's a coil tap. If it really is a coil tap, then engaging tap would bypass part of the coil on each pickup, making it seem more bright. Will the tap bypassed, flipped towards the neck, all of the windings are engaged giving it a deep, dark sound.
Isn't it a coil tap (convert humbucker to single coil) on a 'standard' HB and a 'dark switch' on a Dark Starred HB ?
I'm pretty sure it genuinely was a humbucker/single switch on the HB I had (with barts), and I understood that when they install dark stars, since they're not coli-tapped, they had to do something with the redundant switch and they made it a dark switch. That's from memory, I never owned a DS'ed HB.
Isn't it a coil tap (convert humbucker to single coil) on a 'standard' HB and a 'dark switch' on a Dark Starred HB ?
I'm pretty sure it genuinely was a humbucker/single switch on the HB I had (with barts), and I understood that when they install dark stars, since they're not coli-tapped, they had to do something with the redundant switch and they made it a dark switch. That's from memory, I never owned a DS'ed HB.
Isn't it a coil tap (convert humbucker to single coil) on a 'standard' HB and a 'dark switch' on a Dark Starred HB ?
I'm pretty sure it genuinely was a humbucker/single switch on the HB I had (with barts), and I understood that when they install dark stars, since they're not coli-tapped, they had to do something with the redundant switch and they made it a dark switch. That's from memory, I never owned a DS'ed HB.