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Lakland Owners Group #69

View attachment 5491647 Hi all, just posting my most recent acquisition- US 4464 with 1.5" nut. This one's tuned down a half step to Eb. A couple of the groups I work with tune that way including one of my main gigs. A couple observations: this neck feels slightly chunkier than my workhorse US 4460 (also 1.5 nut). The body contours aren't as 'dramatic' compared to my Fender Precision and aforementioned 4460. It's on the lighter side too (not that I care). Tone is outstanding! I love how the upper notes don't ever get lost; they really pop. I had a blue one just like this that I sold to fund a vintage 1962 jazz bass a few years back. So glad this one popped up for sale!
My man!! That is a beauty
 
There are some videos out there. The consensus seems to be the J, P, and MM sounds are close enough, with most favouring the PJ—go figure—and that it has more, er, gonads to its tones than the more hi-fi Fishman version of the same gimmick.

I think 35” scale, like fanned frets, is something many people try for a bit but give up before their muscles can make new memories.
Do you guys have 34" and 35" basses and switch back and forth?
I do and I find it to be a challenge.
 
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Go between bass and mandolin, then you won’t find any trouble between 34 and 35.
I think that would be easier because it is not subtle.
I have no trouble switching from upright to electric, but the 34" to 35" sometimes trips me up.
Luckily I have both 34 and 35 inch Lakland 5s to choose from.
 

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I think that would be easier because it is not subtle.
I have no trouble switching from upright to electric, but the 34" to 35" sometimes trips me up.
Luckily I have both 34 and 35 inch Lakland 5s to choose from.
If it ever gets too rough and you want to sell that sunburst one on the right, let me know ;)

I haven't noticed an issue with scale lengths (34' vs 35'- I also have a34.5" F Bass :D ), or string spacing (17mm- 19mm), and I'm even getting better at playing 4's after playing 5's almost exclusively for several years... what gets me is bridge placement- basses like Spectors (and not surprisingly an NS Design) I always find I'm about 2 frets sharp when I play without looking since the reach is a bit farther...
 
I know I’ve posted a lot about my 44-60 pickups and electronics changes over the last year or so here… I think I found the money combo. I’ve always been a fan of Seymour Duncan QPs. I’ve used them in a handful of basses in the past. I threw a set into the 44-60. I also decided to go with linear pots for the volume and a standard audio taper for the tone. Fender set the standard of audio taper pots from the beginning and that’s what everyone uses. I took a deep dive on pots on here and the consensus was linear for volume and audio for tone. I did stick with the standard 250k value and a .047 uF cap.
 
Do you guys have 34" and 35" basses and switch back and forth?
I do and I find it to be a challenge.
Typically with my Laklands the transition is pretty seamless going from my Stingray or Sadowsy 5’rs, but it definitely is noticeable with my MTD 35” scale. That one trips me up if I don’t pay attention!
 
Do you guys have 34" and 35" basses and switch back and forth?
I do and I find it to be a challenge.
I do, and I even switch back and forth between 30" and 35". It's usually pretty seamless. It got really strange when I still had a fanned fret bass and took that to a gig together with my Mustang.
 
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