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Lakland Owners Group #69

So the saga of the 55-AJ continues. I sent an email to Brian at Lakland, but if anyone here can advise I’d appreciate it.

When it (re)arrived a few weeks ago the string retainer on the B side had popped out I presume during shipping. It had super heavy D’Addario strings that barely fit under the retainer, likely the initial cause of the issue. I had removed them and replaced with a regular set of D’Addario XL170sl. I filled the holes with toothpicks, re-screwed the holes, and used the height measurement from my 55-02 (1/8”) as reference. The B string was pressed onto the board so I raised it a smidge higher. Now a few weeks later the screw popped out again possibly because the screw isn’t long enough to keep it higher.

Interesting observation is that compared to my 55-02, the placement of the retainer on the AJ is 1/8” closer to the nut. However looking at pics of 55-60 and AJs it seems correctly placed at the edge of the board. So naturally it forces a sharper break angle using the same height as my 02.

What’s the proper fix here? Redo it and keep the sharper break angle? Set higher and use wood glue? Longer screws? Or should I just take it to have my luthier shop fill and sand the holes and move the retainer back 1/8” to 1/4”?

Thanks… Kevin

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There are many better ways to fix an expensive instrument. But I have used toothpicks to fix problems like these in the past with strap buttons, kitchen cabinet doors, etc. Jam a little piece of toothpick in the hole, break it off to get a smaller hole/gap to fill with the existing screw, and then sink the screw back in with a new, tighter fit.
 
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There are many better ways to fix an expensive instrument. But I have used toothpicks to fix problems like these in the past with strap buttons, kitchen cabinet doors, etc. Jam a little piece of toothpick in the hole, break it off to get a smaller hole/gap to fill with the existing screw, and then sink the screw back in with a new, tighter fit.

Pretty much what I did. Following the chop stick trick a luthier showed me many years ago, I used a wood skewer stick this time and that filled the hole nicely. So it’s fixed again. The issue is how sharp the break angle is. Not sure it matters but I’ve loosened it as much as I can while making sure it’s in tight. Something just doesn’t seem right. It doesn’t seem straight across the neck so I’m chalking this up to a factory quality error. Hoping I can get it stable enough. Still haven’t decided if I’m keeping it so I want it to be done right. Pics below comparing to my 55-02.

Anyone know if it matters how low the retainer is set? Does that break angle seem too much? It’s not choking the notes and probably not fair to compare tone of the B between the AJ and 02 since the pickups and preamps are so different. Acoustically it sounds solid though so perhaps I’m over thinking.

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at one point early in my Lakland years, I recall buying some short (1/4" or shorter) hollow metal tubes from home depot to put between the string retainer and the face of the headstock. Hollow so the screws could go thru them. The string retainer rested on the metal tube top, and was no longer floppy. I don't have a pic any more, but I took some at the time.
 
Never noticed that. weird that the string retainer is in a different place: i thought the 55-aj skyline just used the 55-02 neck on a different body!

Peace,
SoundSupport

While I think the neck on the 02 feels a tad slimmer, it is basically the same neck. Between the truss rod access slot being cut just a tad short for the regular Allen key and the location of the retainer, I’m suspecting this is a quality control issue. We’ll see if my repair holds up. In the Lakland setup video with Carl, he recommends setting the height just enough to have the string rest on the edge beyond the nut. So I will see if I can raise it without it popping out. I might end up taking it to my local guy and have him move the retainer and fill the old holes. Or I might move it on. The AJ is making me realize how great the 02 really is anyway.
 
Anyone ever have their bridge saddles tarnish or oxidize like this? It's a 2016 J-Sonic where just about everything else is like new or with minimal signs of use so this is baffling. You can see the same crud process on the saddle screw tips as well. Interestingly the pickguard screws and rear string through ferrules are the same. I plan to remove, dissasemble and clean the bridge but not yet 100% sure on the right method or product for the saddles. Start with some naptha and up from there to Simichrome or similar I guess. I welcome thoughts and suggestions.

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Anyone ever have their bridge saddles tarnish or oxidize like this? It's a 2016 J-Sonic where just about everything else is like new or with minimal signs of use so this is baffling. You can see the same crud process on the saddle screw tips as well. Interestingly the pickguard screws and rear string through ferrules are the same. I plan to remove, dissasemble and clean the bridge but not yet 100% sure on the right method or product for the saddles. Start with some naptha and up from there to Simichrome or similar I guess. I welcome thoughts and suggestions.

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Are you storing the bass in its case?

My Stingray Classic hardware (especially the bridge) oxidizes like crazy if stored in the hard case. I can only guess that there’s some trapped moisture in there, and of course no air circulation.

Mothers chrome polish is my goto hardware polish and it leaves some protective coating behind.
 
Are you storing the bass in its case?

My Stingray Classic hardware (especially the bridge) oxidizes like crazy if stored in the hard case. I can only guess that there’s some trapped moisture in there, and of course no air circulation.

Mothers chrome polish is my go to hardware polish and it leaves some protective coating behind.
I just received it so I don't know the history but that's possible. Atlantic sea air is another possibility as well. It looks like Brian at Lakland has a solution for me though.
 
Quick Chi Sonic pickup question if anyone knows the answer please.

I am installing an Audere Z-Mode preamp in my J-Sonic 5 and just want to be clear on the Chi Sonic wire coloring. The input poles for the Audere is the standard (+) & (-). The + is easy and I ID'd that on disassembly. But because both the Black and White were both tied to the control case ground, so which color is the actual (-) color wire for this application? The other would tie with the bridge ground I assume.

Thank you.
 
Can a brother get a number? :)

Just picked up the Skyline Version of the Geezer in Black. Incredible playability and fretwork on this neck!

Love the bass and will be keeping it. My only (sort of) con is that the EMG Geezers aren't as "Vintage" sounding as say my Player P Bass, but it definitely cuts through the mix.

The attached photo is from what Sweetwater sent me after the purchase.
 

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I recently sent the majority of my basses "to a farm upstate" (LOL) when I found that having most any of them on my shoulder for 2-3 hours at a stretch was causing me some shoulder issues, especially my 5-ers. Sucks getting older.

So I went on the hunt for a 5-er that was light enough to not to kill my shoulder. I played a few different "light" 5-ers and found a Lakland 55-02 fit the bill nicely. In my opinion, it was neck-and-neck (pun intended) with the two Sadowsky Metrolines that I played against it side-by-side. It was a bit cheaper than the Sadowsky's and I found it to be much more versitile, tone-wise. And that "B" string. Whoa. Coming from 34-inch scale 5-er's, I'm not sure if it's the 35" scale length or a combination of other things, but the Lakland's B kicks the ass of the 5-er's have had in the past.

Anyway, it's a Pearl White 55-02 and I used it for its first gig a couple weeks ago a few days after buying it. Sounded great, felt great, FOH was *extremely* happy with it...and sounding good out front makes everybody happy!

Pics attached.
PA Bacon Fest 2021.jpg
Lakland 55-02.jpg
 
I recently sent the majority of my basses "to a farm upstate" (LOL) when I found that having most any of them on my shoulder for 2-3 hours at a stretch was causing me some shoulder issues, especially my 5-ers. Sucks getting older.

So I went on the hunt for a 5-er that was light enough to not to kill my shoulder. I played a few different "light" 5-ers and found a Lakland 55-02 fit the bill nicely. In my opinion, it was neck-and-neck (pun intended) with the two Sadowsky Metrolines that I played against it side-by-side. It was a bit cheaper than the Sadowsky's and I found it to be much more versitile, tone-wise. And that "B" string. Whoa. Coming from 34-inch scale 5-er's, I'm not sure if it's the 35" scale length or a combination of other things, but the Lakland's B kicks the ass of the 5-er's have had in the past.

Anyway, it's a Pearl White 55-02 and I used it for its first gig a couple weeks ago a few days after buying it. Sounded great, felt great, FOH was *extremely* happy with it...and sounding good out front makes everybody happy!

Pics attached.
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That looks fantastic! Welcome and be careful! I started with a light 55-02 in March of 2018… :cool:

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I just realized I need to redo this collage as it doesn’t include the purple GZR. Doh!
 
Anyone ever have their bridge saddles tarnish or oxidize like this? It's a 2016 J-Sonic where just about everything else is like new or with minimal signs of use so this is baffling. You can see the same crud process on the saddle screw tips as well. Interestingly the pickguard screws and rear string through ferrules are the same. I plan to remove, dissasemble and clean the bridge but not yet 100% sure on the right method or product for the saddles. Start with some naptha and up from there to Simichrome or similar I guess. I welcome thoughts and suggestions.

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I have an older 44-64 P/J with a bit of tarnish on the bridge. I ordered a replacement from Lakland but haven't installed it yet. It wasn't too expensive, if I recall.
 
Anyone ever have their bridge saddles tarnish or oxidize like this? It's a 2016 J-Sonic where just about everything else is like new or with minimal signs of use so this is baffling. You can see the same crud process on the saddle screw tips as well. Interestingly the pickguard screws and rear string through ferrules are the same. I plan to remove, dissasemble and clean the bridge but not yet 100% sure on the right method or product for the saddles. Start with some naptha and up from there to Simichrome or similar I guess. I welcome thoughts and suggestions.

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The bridge on my '98 5594 kind of went the opposite way...the saddles look fine but the plate itself is a bit tarnished. Not to the extent of what your pictures show though.
 
The bridge on my '98 5594 kind of went the opposite way...the saddles look fine but the plate itself is a bit tarnished. Not to the extent of what your pictures show though.
Well, I never got that far. This one ended up having a wonky neck, with an issue I had never encountered before, so I was fortunate to be able to return it to the seller.
 
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That looks fantastic! Welcome and be careful! I started with a light 55-02 in March of 2018… :cool:

View attachment 4478795

I just realized I need to redo this collage as it doesn’t include the purple GZR. Doh!
How are you liking the purple GZR? I'm not really a fan of P's or PJ's. I'm more of a Stingray HH and Jazz guy, but I totally dig the color, wood grain, and block inlays on it.
 
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How are you liking the purple GZR? I'm not really a fan of P's or PJ's. I'm more of a Stingray HH and Jazz guy, but I totally dig the color, wood grain, and block inlays on it.

I love GZR pickups but I’m not feeling them in this bass for some reason. It looks amazing though and it is super easy to play so if the ear doesn’t bond soon, I may start the hunt for a replacement set of pickups.

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