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Learn from my example and don't cheap out on solder!

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fourstringdrums

fourstringdrums

Decidedly Indecisive
Supporting Member
Oct 20, 2002
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Massachusetts
#1
For the love of God, if you're going to solder and you're new to it, don't cheap out on the solder.

The wires on my output jack broke (I was tightening the jack and it turned and the wires were too short and the connection broke). Not a big deal, I'll replace the connections. But I'm not an expert and I hadn't soldered in over 10 years and no longer had an iron or supplies, so off to Amazon...

I got a decently good soldering station but decided to go with solder based on price and not reputation (despite a ton of good reviews). It was the typical "same product, just rebranded 10 times" Chinese garbage that Amazon sells. Long story short, I made a mess of the pots, got new ones and made a mess of those too. The solder would melt, but when I removed the iron it would cool so fast, the pool was never smooth because it would stick to the iron as I lifted it. I had to use more solder just to make an ugly, jagged blob of a joint with the wire in it. It almost had a waxy consistency in the moment between being completely liquid, but right before it cooled. Then it turned grey and hazy, despite me heating the parts enough. The tinning on the iron was even grey. When I tried to remove solder, it wouldn't wick and would cool so fast I couldn't use a pump unless it was on a lug.

So after reading the reviews further, despite overall good reviews, all the negative reviews were the same.

I finally wised up and bought some Kester solder. HUGE difference. With the 3rd set of pots, I was done in about a half hour rewiring everything from scratch VS hours to only do a lousy job. It melted easier, flowed consistently, and cooled nice and shiny.

One other thing I noticed is the cheap stuff smelled a lot more. The Kester didn't even really have a smell. I swear I had a headache for two days from working with the other stuff multiple days in a row.

So yes, it may cost the same for only a half ounce of the Kester vs an ounce and a half of the cheap stuff, but your sanity and wallet in the long run when you don't have to keep replacing parts that you screw up will thank you.

Picture of tinned tips for reference. Guess which one is the cheap stuff.

20230201_225803.jpg
 
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#5
There is leaded vs no lead solder as well.
The leaded solder is easier to work with and is typically used in repair work.
Unleaded use to be more difficult to use on an individual basis, but I think there have been improvements.
Unleaded is prevalent in manufacturing. Those processes are set up to work well with unleaded solder.

All soldering should come with the typical warnings about proper ventilation.

I understand the sticker shock when shopping for solder, but this is a case of where it pays in the long run. The last roll I got lasted me over ten years. I purchased a new 1lb roll of Kester 60/40 (leaded) a couple of years ago. That's the best value. I go through a lot of solder for hobby stuff. (Guitar and Ham Radio DIY projects). But this roll will probably outlast me.
 
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#6
Old Garage-Bander said:
There is leaded vs no lead solder as well.
The leaded solder is easier to work with and is typically used in repair work.
Unleaded use to be more difficult to use on an individual basis, but I think there have been improvements.
Unleaded is prevalent in manufacturing. Those processes are set up to work well with unleaded solder.

All soldering should come with the typical warnings about proper ventilation.

I understand the sticker shock when shopping for solder, but this is a case of where it pays in the long run. The last roll I got lasted me over ten years. I purchased a new 1lb roll of Kester 60/40 (leaded) a couple of years ago. That's the best value. I go through a lot of solder for hobby stuff. (Guitar and Ham Radio DIY projects). But this roll will probably outlast me.
Click to expand...

Yeah people said that they think it's actually lead free. I know I read up on how lead free acts and it did seem like that to me.

As for ventilation, I had none where I was, but it's still a good idea to get into the habit of. I'm going to make my own pedal power cables next so I'll look into it.
 
#8
Well, talk about missing the point . . . there is enough bad product on the market, that I guess the idea that perhaps they used something other than proper flux eluded some folks. Interesting, though . . . . two likes and two whines . . . I guess I'm even . . .
 
#10
tadawson said:
Well, talk about missing the point . . . there is enough bad product on the market, that I guess the idea that perhaps they used something other than proper flux eluded some folks. Interesting, though . . . . two likes and two whines . . . I guess I'm even . . .
Click to expand...
Actually, it's more closely related to someone that cares enough to point out what could be considered a microagression (intentional or incidental). Knowing and understanding these things helps us grow as individuals and a community.
 
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#13
Yes, definitely; the difference between lead-free solder and the old stuff that still came with lead is very noticeable.
I'm very glad I kept some of that old stuff around for critical audio jobs, since it is now damn near impossible to find anything other than lead-free solder in this country.
If you have a quality soldering iron you can easily refurbish them (the tips) by using fine grit sand paper to polish off the old residue
 
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#15
GregT said:
I was having difficulty soldering a couple years ago after soldering things all my life. I thought I'd lost the touch. I bought new tips (and backup tips) for all three of my soldering irons and what a difference it made.[
Click to expand...
Abyssus Sonum said:
Yes, definitely; the difference between lead-free solder and the old stuff that still came with lead is very noticeable.
I'm very glad I kept some of that old stuff around for critical audio jobs, since it is now damn near impossible to find anything other than lead-free solder in this country.
If you have a quality soldering iron you can easily refurbish them (the tips) by using fine grit sand paper to polish off the old residue
Click to expand...

I got a station that came with a brass cleaning pad. That works well to keep oxidation off as well.
 
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#16
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#17
The Yihua looks like a good station. A lot of the recent Chinese made examples like yours, often under a number of brands are excellent and have been well reviewed.

The brass tip cleaner is great too as they help the tip last longer, generally stay cleaner and keep closer to temp versus a wet sponge.

If you're doing a lot of soldering, good extraction is necessary, but for the odd job, a well ventilated room will be fine, unless you're (the Royal you) concerned with having too high a lead content as your other hobby is licking old paint.
 
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#18
tadawson said:
Well, talk about missing the point . . . there is enough bad product on the market, that I guess the idea that perhaps they used something other than proper flux eluded some folks. Interesting, though . . . . two likes and two whines . . . I guess I'm even . . .
Click to expand...

So it was just a harmless but obscure joke about Chinese people using fake chemicals and it just coincidentally happened to use a misspelling that looks exactly like a racist stereotype about the way Asian people speak English? Is that the point some of us missed?
 
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