Tried searching the "sound quality first cabinet design" got nothing. Would you please explain. I can guess at what someone was trying to do....but...
Otherwise, nice build quality!
...also guessing you can remove any number of the rear slats for open back tuning?
Well hell .... I will explain. BUT please note that it often opens up cans of worms.... Something I won't participate in.
I can help some readers by just stating that I have been designing and building high end audio speakers for 40 years, for companies like JBL, Polk, Klipsch, Energy, etc... and my specialty is/was cabinet vibrations and acoustical material engineering.
ANY and every vibration made by anything other than the actual speaker cone itself IS a type of distortion. Cabinet vibrations of any level smear the end sound. Every vibration also removes end volume, as any energy outside of the actual cone moving is wasted energy (watts).
This cabinet firstly was properly designed for the Retro 30 speaker"s exact TS parameters. 99% of Pro Audio does not care or even know!
Just put the driver in a cabinet that marketing says will sell. This is designed for flat FR from this cabinet size/driver combo.
And then the use of Baltic Birch plywood... it's CRAZY stiff and strong, without any of the hollow voids in regular plywood. It was all hardwood layers, with no filler wood layers. It has each sheet glued with crossed grain on each layer for strength. It will not warp, it's crazy strong, and is lighter in weight than MDF.
Sound quality first means that ZERO considerations were on the table, concerning weight, durability for gigging, etc. This is a "show" cabinet for his music store. Something for people to look at, AND his own personal guitar cab for his own practice. Never to be gigged with or hauled around.
You can easily measure the difference in vibrations and in the FR in the room. Hardwood is a terrible speaker cabinet material. It isn't consistent in the Janka hardness scale. And the varying figure, knots, defects, etc are terrible.