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left behind adhesive after removing rat fur

#41
Basslice said:
As you say unless you know the type of adhesive it is hard to pick a solvent to remove it. Some adhesives are hard/tough while some are very tacky. The best solution is probably just to scrape it as much as you can then sand it and change your sandpaper frequently. Get a good razor edge scraper. Not really that complicated, just time consuming and a pain in the butt.
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I actually cleaned the baffle with acetone and it did work but damn if it wasn’t time consuming ,laborious and that stuff is just nasty as hell
 
#42
I love the fact that there are as many methods of dealing with the rat fur as there are posters in this thread!

It's like one of those old timey superstitions passed down by the old ladies in some village in the middle of nowhere.

"use the heat Gun"
"no no use sandpaper"
"use the heat Gun and the solvent"
"dont use the solvent, use a knife"
And so on...
 
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#43
Steve Whitman said:
... then took a putty knife to the dried out adhesive. This worked great. Took some effort, and a face mask but it scrapped pretty clean. Then 60 grit sandpaper. Then Duratex and it looks great. The bigger challenge is the cat stink. I've had to replace the lower speaker and foam in the box. I'm spraying it down with odor eliminator and putting it out in the sun every day, like bleaching bones in the desert. We're having a major heatwave, so its getting baked. Seems to be working so far, hardly any smell left and I plan to continue the treatments for another week at least.
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Just a thought. I have a Dremel Multi-Max paired with a very sharp scraper blade.

Riis
 
#45
Katoosie said:
I love the fact that there are as many methods of dealing with the rat fur as there are posters in this thread!

It's like one of those old timey superstitions passed down by the old ladies in some village in the middle of nowhere.

"use the heat Gun"
"no no use sandpaper"
"use the heat Gun and the solvent"
"dont use the solvent, use a knife"
And so on...
Click to expand...
Probably because there are so many different adhesives. None of what people have posted are superstitions. Just there is no, "one fits all" solution to removing glue, paint or gunk.
 
#48
Stewie said:
My eyes and ears are wude open now! Got a recipe?
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Yup
Screenshot_20210622-061934_Samsung Internet.jpg


If you're having trouble finding borax powder, check the garden section with the pesticides. Read the labels. There are actually quite a few ant and roach killers that are nothing but straight borax powder.
 
#51
all those chemicals are crap.. Like mentioned go with a good orbital sander with low grit paper or better yet one of those house paint orbital sanders. Or something to strip paint off a car...You wont even need chemicals at that point

nding-angle-grinder-flap-discs-40-grit-choose-size-quantity-box-of-25-size-5-inch-125mm-328-p_10.jpg
 
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#52
Basslice said:
Probably because there are so many different adhesives. None of what people have posted are superstitions. Just there is no, "one fits all" solution to removing glue, paint or gunk.
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Agreed, and the more you know about adhesives, the more obvious this becomes.

nickpc said:
Why not apply a thin laminate/veneer over the adhesive, using a compatible adhesive, then put the duratex over the laminate? Basically seal the old adhesive in with the laminate, which then provides a good surface for the duratex to adhere to.
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You would need to know what class of adhesive was used in the first place. Also, this is probably more work and cost than just building a new box.

HardNHeavy said:
all those chemicals are crap.. Like mentioned go with a good orbital sander with low grit paper or better yet one of those house paint orbital sanders. Or something to strip paint off a car...You wont even need chemicals at that point

View attachment 4310480
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These can work, but some adhesives will load those flap disks up really fast, and they are not cheap. Also, once they hit wood, they can do a lot of damage in a very short amount of time. If the cabinet has a bunch of gouges and chew marks from the disk, it will show through the Duratex unless the surface is filled.

Again, there's less than $50 worth of plywood in the cabinet (even at today's prices).
 
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#59
There is not once that I've gotten into a project like this that I didn't say to myself "It would have been easier to just build a new box." That said, not everyone has the tools, expertise, etc. to accomplish that as easily as I do. The OP is in it now -- experimentation will reveal which of the techniques offered will yield the best results. None of them are going to be easy. My vote is a belt or orbital sander with 60 or 80 grit paper and plan on buying quite a bit. It seems like almost anything is going to result in a surface that will need some filling.

@beans-on-toast's advice to avoid altering the edge radius is to be heeded. And Andy's earlier suggestion of recovering it with a good grade of new Ozite carpet is probably the easiest solution, IMO.
 
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