Leveling fretless fingerboard - self or pro?

[darwin-bass]

That sounds kind of high. I usually shoot for something smaller than that in that area.

How does the action feel

The bass plays well. Doesn't feel like high action at all. BTW, I'm measuring the distance from the fingerboard to the underside of each string in the area of the 20th fret. Perhaps that isn't the right way to measure it?

 

[Bodeeni]

That sounds kind of high. I usually shoot for something smaller than that in that area.

How does the action feel

Wow, I was thinking the opposite, actions is too low for the way I play. I run around 2.5 plus. I use TI flats that are pretty light and play live, so I have a fairly strong attack. If this bass is at 1.75 with no buzzing, I think that is great. IMO

 

[Scoops]

The bass plays well. Doesn't feel like high action at all. BTW, I'm measuring the distance from the fingerboard to the underside of each string in the area of the 20th fret. Perhaps that isn't the right way to measure it?

You hadn't clarified this, so this is why I was questioning. Because you were talking about Bb down by the nut, I thought thats where you were were measuring from. If your measurement is from the 20th fret, that sounds about right. Just curious, is this measurement for all strings?

Wow, I was thinking the opposite, actions is too low for the way I play. I run around 2.5 plus. I use TI flats that are pretty light and play live, so I have a fairly strong attack. If this bass is at 1.75 with no buzzing, I think that is great. IMO

Again, I was unclear on where he was measuring from. I play TI's as well, but I like to think I have a soft touch, so my action is lower, with 1.75mm being a good target for the E string, and a little less for the G string.

 

[darwin-bass]

You hadn't clarified this, so this is why I was questioning. Because you were talking about Bb down by the nut, I thought thats where you were were measuring from. If your measurement is from the 20th fret, that sounds about right. Just curious, is this measurement for all strings?

Right, I checked and adjusted all 4. I ended up with the E and A strings in the 1.75 to 2.00 mm range. D and G strings are 1.75mm or maybe 1.50mm. They work well and mwah more at the lower clearances.

My strings are GHS precision flats (stiff) and I tend to pluck between the P pickup and bridge so I can usually run lower action.

 

[craigie]

Right, I checked and adjusted all 4. I ended up with the E and A strings in the 1.75 to 2.00 mm range. D and G strings are 1.75mm or maybe 1.50mm. They work well and mwah more at the lower clearances.

My strings are GHS precision flats (stiff) and I tend to pluck between the P pickup and bridge so I can usually run lower action.

I’ve been loving precision flats for a few years now and tried them on fretless- didn’t love it so much. Not a lot of top end definition.

I got what I believe is a set or Ernie ball stainless flats that came on a fretless and they are great.

 

[Matt Salas]

Hey Bruce. Thank you! I did it! I first de-stringed, then straightened the neck by adjusting the truss rod. It was almost there anyway after the strings came off. (I used a straight edge down the middle, illuminated from behind). Then I started full length strokes with the long sanding block. Immediately the string grooves and buzz points (I had already mapped) were highlighted as shiny. From there it was simply a matter of working the whole neck until all the low points were almost completely gone, and then I finished off. There is still plenty of meat on the ebony, so this could be done again (but not likely in my time). It is now playing like a new neck and has plenty of mwhaa where it should. A deep crack is now much diminished and no longer causes buzz.

I have a Maton (Australian) from about 1986. It had one previous owner who thrashed it.

I have found your tips from this and other threads extremely helpful. I now have a beautifully sounding and easy to play instrument.

 

[Beej]

Hey Bruce. Thank you! I did it! I first de-stringed, then straightened the neck by adjusting the truss rod. It was almost there anyway after the strings came off. (I used a straight edge down the middle, illuminated from behind). Then I started full length strokes with the long sanding block. Immediately the string grooves and buzz points (I had already mapped) were highlighted as shiny. From there it was simply a matter of working the whole neck until all the low points were almost completely gone, and then I finished off. There is still plenty of meat on ebony, so this could be done again (but not likely in my time). It is now playing like a new neck and has plenty of whaa where it should. A deep crack is now much diminished and no longer causes buzz.

I have a Maton (Australian) from about 1986. It had one previous owner who thrashed it.

I have found your tips from this and other threads extremely helpful. I now have a beautifully sounding and easy to play instrument.

Everyone here loves it when it works out! Any pics to share? We also love pics.

 

[Matt Salas]

Sure thing Beej. Here is my Maton MGB 4. (Shot taken before I did the setup - see reflection on the fingerboard)

 

[Beej]

Very nice